f5m33 Trans upgrades inquire.

[BlackMount]

Are there any upgrades available for the FWD F5m33?

I've heard of using Evo gears, but thats about.

anything like Billet forks, or different final drives, maybe diff swaps from other trans or some beneficial DIY MODS...

or is the most you can really do with these trans is a LSD and some fancy bushings?

(this is for a road course car FYI)

Thanks in advanced...

 

[JackM]

The FWD gear-set is a completely different animal over the AWD EVO gears.

We have a few options for the FWD, but I suppose it really depends on your power goals and the kind of racing it will see.

If you are looking for DIY mods the best one is to install a Quaife LSD. We can also convert your weak gear-set to a stronger set if you plan on raising the power through the unit too.

Good luck

Jack

 

[BlackMount]

I don't ever plan on this car making more then 400whp....

but plans do change over time...right now the car is hardly making 200whp but thats because I haven't put the turbo on yet...

details on the stronger gear set? From what I see around the 3/s forums most people grenade the Diff if anything but doesn't mean it wouldn't be handy.

I personally have never broken a transmission in the 6 years of racing, but doesn't mean I won't. plus my current trans is pretty sloppy so I am in for something new.

oh this is a ROAD COURSE track car, not a drag car, I should mention.

 

[killercolt]

A LSD is a must for fwd car. It helps with torque steer which is super dangerous in high hp /tq car. At the drag strip, you can torque toward the wall off the line. I missed the wall by a foot or less when I went to the track years ago with no LSD. LSD also make driving fwd dsm more bearable. If you street race without a LSD in a fwd, you could cross over to the other lane and hit the car you are racing against. It is a very dangerous situation if you ever start making power.

Converting the long driver side axle to a two pieces axle eliminate pretty much all of the torque steer. If you have a 2g fwd tranny, you can do this by switching the fwd differential for the Awd differential. 2g fwd tranny accept a bigger shaft and will not accept the awd intermediate shaft correctly. You will need to switch the big differential gear from the fwd diff to the awd diff and shim the diff bearings. Get the correct axle seal too.

 

[BlackMount]

Thanks for the info.

Also this is a 3/S FWD trans. Sorry for not saying so sooner.

Mechanically they are the same with small differences. I have rebuilt one in the past using the internals from a 1G dsm.

We also have the two piece axle like u talk about stock.

 

[JackM]

Double synchros are really nice to have in a road race car. We can double synchro any gear in that trans.

I would say diff and double synchros and you will have a very nice trans.

 

[donniekak]

Your best bet in a fwd 3s, especially if you turbo the car, is to run a modified awd getrag.

 

[BlackMount]

Your best bet in a fwd 3s, especially if you turbo the car, is to run a modified awd getrag.

Yes, If I go turbo and break the trans that I probably would I would do.


However, right now the car is still naturally aspirated, and the gears in both the 6 speed and 5 speed getrags are very long in compared to the the f5m33/w5m33 (JDM AWD N/A Trans) that comes in the 3/s. I feel the longer gears would hurt the car alot as far ass overall acceleration out of corners.

How much do double syncros run? Do i send you guys a set of gears or??

 

[JackM]

You would have to send us the gears for fitment and machine work. It normally comes up to $150 per gear and that includes the double sycnhros. They will just pop in and go at that point.

We have done a few of the TT engines in the NA cars here using the NA trans and all held up just fine. The most important thing is the Quaife front diff, though. Without that, you are pretty much guaranteed a trans failure as the spinning tires under boost will eat up the OEM front diff in a hurry. You also risk the 3-4 slider exploding and gears breaking, but we never ran into that problem. Not shock-loading the system will allow it to live and work.

 

[BlackMount]

What do you mean shock loading? Like launching orrr?

150 ea isnt too bad..

 

[JackM]

Shock loading is when you engage the clutch so harshly that you feel the car jump or chirp the tires. You see it a lot with FWD owners for some reason. Every gear they shift into they have to shock the system so hard that you hear the tires chirp. That will ruin many parts in the drive-train in short time.

Keeping your clutch engagement smooth is key to a happy drive-train.

Here's a good vid of what not to do. You can hear the car 'jump' as he engages the clutch so harshly that everything under the hood is shocked badly:

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IRwgIZbUQGk]Slammin' gears - YouTube[/ame]

 

[BlackMount]

Shock loading is when you engage the clutch so harshly that you feel the car jump or chirp the tires. You see it a lot with FWD owners for some reason. Every gear they shift into they have to shock the system so hard that you hear the tires chirp. That will ruin many parts in the drive-train in short time.

Keeping your clutch engagement smooth is key to a happy drive-train.

Here's a good vid of what not to do. You can hear the car 'jump' as he engages the clutch so harshly that everything under the hood is shocked badly:

Slammin' gears - YouTube

oh, Yes. that is not how I drive haha. Even racing I take my time shifting; tho Vin Diesel might make fun of me for "Granny shifting", but whatevs. haha


maybe why in 6+ years I've never broken a transmission...just a theory.... *Knock on wood*