Extended slave rod length?

[eighty9tsi]

I have thoroughly researched the extended slave rod and theory (thanks Taboo!) but I didnt see any reference on how much longer to make the slave rod. I am going to be making my own out of a grade 7 or higher bolt with the head cut off and rounded on both ends, but how much longer do I make mine than the stock one?

1/4 in? 1/2 in? 3/8 in? I just didnt want to make it TOO long and have it overextend the fork and mash the heck out of the T/O bearing, and/or have it start disengaging without any pedal pressure. I know there is an initial preload on the whole setup, I just didnt want to start guessing when perhaps someone has the dimensions to the extended slave rod.

I did plenty of searches, but didnt actually come up with some hard dimensions.

Thanks,
Ian

 

[4g63awdtalon]

It's been awhile since i looked at mine but when i first bought mine and compaired it to the stocker it was about a 1/4 inch longer. If you are going to make one start out small and and if you need to go bigger you can always make another one.

 

[GVR4592]

You don't want to use an extended rod. It's a bandaid fix for something else that's worn out in the system, usually the pedal assembly. Pull up on your clutch pedal with your foot, if there is some free play in it, then it probably needs fixed. If theres no play, then it's probably a worn pivot ball and/or clutch fork

 

[eighty9tsi]

Well according to this Extended slave article an extended slave rod makes perfect sense. I understand where you are coming from but I dont feel that replacing the entire pedal assembly is necessary when having an extended slave rod will actually do no real damage.

I havent even put in the clutch yet (ACT 2600) but judging by my experience from my last one (In my 1g AWD) an extended slave rod is going to be necessary to get the damn thing to disengage fully. This new clutch is going to be going into my Galant, but I just know im going to have a problem with disengaging just like my first gen had.

I do know about the free play and the extended rod being some what of a "bandaid", but its a bandaid that works well with no ill effects. I had the extended rod in the 1g for 2.5 years with no problems until I sold the car, never had to adjust it or replace the slave.

"It's been awhile since i looked at mine but when i first bought mine and compaired it to the stocker it was about a 1/4 inch longer. If you are going to make one start out small and and if you need to go bigger you can always make another one."

Good point actually, I will start with the 1/4 and move up as necessary.

 

[TRBOBLU]

You don't want to use an extended rod. It's a bandaid fix for something else that's worn out in the system, usually the pedal assembly. Pull up on your clutch pedal with your foot, if there is some free play in it, then it probably needs fixed. If theres no play, then it's probably a worn pivot ball and/or clutch fork

GVR4592 is right. The rod was designed right from the factory and it is not the cause of clutch problems. I would find the real cause and fix that instead of a band-aid fix. Ive had a 2600 on my car for years with no issues in engagement or disengagement. I have a friend with a 2900 on a 1g and no issues either. Both our cars have no extended rod. Your problem lies elsewhere.

 

[eighty9tsi]

Well thats two people saying no extended slave rod. Ha.

I dont actually have the clutch in there yet, so I will most definately try it without extending the rod and maybe it will disengage fine. Its all stock right now and it disengages fine as it is, but I was just figuring on the extra pedal pressure screwing with the disengagement, thats all.

 

[craracer05]

I would check out vfaq theres a write up on there about adjusting the stock rod length, thats most liukely a better option.

 

[GVR4592]

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=86255

Read post #11

 

[oldman]

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=86255

Read post #11

Haha, the old Taboo vs. Shep on extended slave rod debate!!

Taboo is right on many things but I'm with Shep on this, an extended rod or welding an extra nut on the master will end up killing the cylinders. If you have play on the assembly, fix it, it will continue to get worse even if you bandaid it now with an extended rod. In six months, you will still have to pull the assembly, but most likely you will also need a new mater and slave.

 

[racemygsx]

I have the ACT 2600 with the stock rod and have no problems. I thought I would need it, but after not having the extended rod in hand at that time I just put everything together as it was and it works fine.

 

[oldman]

I have the ACT 2600 with the stock rod and have no problems. I thought I would need it, but after not having the extended rod in hand at that time I just put everything together as it was and it works fine.

Same here. Not only I don't need it, I'm engaging at bout 1" off the floor with at least 3 more threads worth of adjustment left on the master. Before I welded my pedal assembly, I had trouble getting into 1st and sometimes 2nd, with an extended slave rod and master adjusted to the max.

 

[gobeli67]

Yea im having major problems with my clutch disengaging. I put it to the floor and it still does'nt fully disengage and it grinds 2nd unless I granny shift (which I am assuming is the clutch not engagin all the way). What do I have to do to fix this, could someone post a link on this. Also have a fidanza 6 puck

 

[oldman]

yeah i would just adjust your clutch pedal and that should do it

How do you adjust the clutch pedal?

Yea im having major problems with my clutch disengaging. I put it to the floor and it still does'nt fully disengage and it grinds 2nd unless I granny shift (which I am assuming is the clutch not engagin all the way). What do I have to do to fix this, could someone post a link on this. Also have a fidanza 6 puck

1. Check for leaks at master cylinder (under your dash), rubber clutch line (under your intake pipe) and slave cylinder (under the car mounted to the transmission). If one of the cylinders are leaking, I would go ahead and change both cylinders (unless the non-leaking one was recently changed) as well as replace the rubber line with a stainless steel one.

2. Step on your pedal and let it return to the top by itself, if you can pull the pedal up more after it has stopped, the cluth pedal assembly is worn out and you will need to pull the assembly and weld it.

3. Bleed your clutch properly.

 

[daren_p]

To the OP if your not seeing the trend, I'll to say don't use the extended slave rod, its a bandaid fix for another issue. When everything else is functioning/is in spec, there is no need for an extender rod.

 

[gobeli67]

Would a SS clutch line also get rid of some of the sponginess like SS brake lines do?

 

[oldman]

Would a SS clutch line also get rid of some of the sponginess like SS brake lines do?

That is exactly what it does. Old and tired rubber hoses (brakes, clutch, IC pipes....etc.) tend to expand under pressure.