The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Exhaust smells rich..? not good mpg

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

When the sensor goes bad or the connection is faulty, your ECU get a different voltage reading. Now basically your computer is gonna dump alot of fuel into the car causing it to be rich and bad gas mileage. There are many forums in here that you will see people's coolant temp. sensor was bad and they either had a long time carnk to start, no start or just horribly rich when started. This is just a simple thing to check with a volt/ohm meter and it's located on your thrmostat housing. If it is faulty or you find that the wire is brittle you can always re-wire it your self and the sensor is gonna be around $20.00 give or take.
 
Really dude...... Seeing that a bad o2 could cause rich conditions and cause bad mpg. Its a pretty cheap fix. With what you said might as well tear the whole car down. Start with simple and cheap things. Boost leak test = money if he doesn't have one and a air compressor , leak down test = more money and if no air compressor ever more money.

well you have to start somewhere right???? What if the other things didn't work that would be a waste of money to. So he might as well leave the car how it is since everything is a waste of money right??

Ever priced out an o2 sensor? They run roughly $110 for a good one. That's not exactly "cheap" to just be throwing at it. A boost leak tester costs less than $10 and can be used OVER and OVER again and WILL be used. A compression tester can be rented at an autoparts store for free as well as a leak down tester. :ohdamn: So for $10 and some of his time he could possibly figure out his problem. Or he could take your advice and blindly throw money at it in hopes it will fix the problem. Smart move. :notgood:
 
Your front o2 sensor is probably bad. Replace it. Your coolant tep sensor could also be bad, replace it. Your MAF is probably dirty, clean it. If you have any exhaust leaks pre-front 02 sensor, make sure to correct those.

Once again, anyone saying that a boost leak could be his problem, It's not always that, and in this situation it most liekly isn't.

A boost leak at idle and cruise thats small will cause you to draw in un-metered air resulting in a lean condition. Under boost, it will cause a rich condition.

Lastly, if it is a big enough boost leak, it can cause your ecu to throw a ton of fuel at your motor, but he's talking about bad mpg just driving normally off boost.

:tease:Wow either you dont have much automotive experience or your loaded:banghead: Talk to any tech or a REAL dsmer throwing money or parts at a car has to be the dumbest way to solve a problem, and $100 may be chump change to you but to someone else it could be much more than they could afford. IMO check for EXHAUST leaks, which are not the same as a boost leaks, first its free, fairly simple and most of the time cheap and easy to fix. Before you throw new parts in CHECK the old parts to see if they are working properly CLEAN them if needed put them back in and note results. ALL OF WHICH IS FREE, SIMPLE AND NOT TOO TIME CONSUMING. If you do have to replace parts, do one system at a time to help track down the real problem. Trust me if you keep throwing parts with a general idea of what the problem is you may fix it, or maybe not or maybe "fix" it for a month or two then run into the same problem. If you o2's go bad find out why not just replace them..just my opinion

or if you have the funds keep throwing money at it until works:applause:
 
Ever priced out an o2 sensor? They run roughly $110 for a good one. That's not exactly "cheap" to just be throwing at it. A boost leak tester costs less than $10 and can be used OVER and OVER again and WILL be used. A compression tester can be rented at an autoparts store for free as well as a leak down tester. :ohdamn: So for $10 and some of his time he could possibly figure out his problem. Or he could take your advice and blindly throw money at it in hopes it will fix the problem. Smart move. :notgood:

wow really dude you need money for a deposit, if he doesnt have money for that then hes sol. 10 bucks great you still need a air compressor. 110 bucks not sure where your shopping for an o2 sensor
 
Your front o2 sensor is probably bad. Replace it. Your coolant tep sensor could also be bad, replace it. Your MAF is probably dirty, clean it. If you have any exhaust leaks pre-front 02 sensor, make sure to correct those.

Once again, anyone saying that a boost leak could be his problem, It's not always that, and in this situation it most liekly isn't.

A boost leak at idle and cruise thats small will cause you to draw in un-metered air resulting in a lean condition. Under boost, it will cause a rich condition.

Lastly, if it is a big enough boost leak, it can cause your ecu to throw a ton of fuel at your motor, but he's talking about bad mpg just driving normally off boost.

Read the highlighted parts. Now what does the computer do when it sees a lean condition? It ADDS fuel, which results in poor MPG.

wow really dude you need money for a deposit, if he doesnt have money for that then hes sol. 10 bucks great you still need a air compressor. 110 bucks not sure where your shopping for an o2 sensor

You're seriously an idiot. If he can't afford a refundable $40 deposit how the #### will he afford a $110 o2 sensor (any autoparts store, not shopping online). An air compressor is easy to come by, #### even a hand pump will get the job done. :banghead:
 
Read the highlighted parts. Now what does the computer do when it sees a lean condition? It ADDS fuel, which results in poor MPG.



You're seriously an idiot. If he can't afford a refundable $40 deposit how the #### will he afford a $110 o2 sensor (any autoparts store, not shopping online). An air compressor is easy to come by, #### even a hand pump will get the job done. :banghead:

Wherever your getting your prices is ridiculous, when a Bosch (which is a perfectly acceptable o2 sensor) can be had for $70 at autozone Direct OE fit with OEM connector.

Second of all, if there is a boost leak, it's going to be drawing in air at idle and throw a lean condition at idle. Your ECU won't throw any more fuel for it at idle. If it's large enough it will. I had a coupler blow off...My idle still retained 14.6, while my car would stutter during boost.

Usually when a ECU dumps fuel, it's your o2 sensor recieving fresh air from a leak. ECU see's a lean condition at the o2, and dumps fuel to correct it. A boost leak is your engine recieving un-metered air and the MAF is not calculating, therefore your ECU is blind to it.

Any true DSMer can't afford an o2 sensor?? LOL....

If you can't afford to put a new o2 sensor in your car every 60,000 miles, your not keeping up on maintenance and therefore neglecting your car. $70 is nowhere what it costs to do a timing belt/water pump @ 70,000 miles either..

It's either a $70 o2 sensor, or $100 in extra gas money that month.

If the OP isn't complaing about studdering during boost, a boost leak isn't his problem.

:tease:Wow either you dont have much automotive experience or your loaded:banghead: Talk to any tech or a REAL dsmer throwing money or parts at a car has to be the dumbest way to solve a problem, and $100 may be chump change to you but to someone else it could be much more than they could afford. IMO check for EXHAUST leaks, which are not the same as a boost leaks, first its free, fairly simple and most of the time cheap and easy to fix. Before you throw new parts in CHECK the old parts to see if they are working properly CLEAN them if needed put them back in and note results. ALL OF WHICH IS FREE, SIMPLE AND NOT TOO TIME CONSUMING. If you do have to replace parts, do one system at a time to help track down the real problem. Trust me if you keep throwing parts with a general idea of what the problem is you may fix it, or maybe not or maybe "fix" it for a month or two then run into the same problem. If you o2's go bad find out why not just replace them..just my opinion

or if you have the funds keep throwing money at it until works:applause:

Please quit talking.

If you can't afford $70 to make your car run right. You're not a DSMer.

Apparently a DSMer to you is a broke-ass person that puts on other half-assed used parts to correct a problem for another 10,000 miles?? Right?

Sorry I don't do that. I would rather Save my money and throw it at the 6 possibilites it could be (which add up to about $85-$100) and correct the problem, and furthermore make sure nothing could happen again because you elimated all 6 problems at once, so they are all done at the same time..

True DSMer?? Hahaha
 
Last edited:
It doesnt matter if its $5 or $50000 the point is throwing parts at a car to fix it is ridiculous if the only way for you to have your dsm running is to throw parts at it INSTEAD OF FIXING THE PROBLEM then you dont deserve a dsm. And since you have so much money to throw around buy a lambo and when that brakes throw more money at it because that will fix it yay! And just because a part is used doesnt mean its half-ass you must be a rich kid did daddy buy that car of yours?

Back to the OP if you have loooads of money and can afford it just buy a new engine and all your problems will be solved! or you can follow a process find the problem and fix it and maybe save a buck or two
 
You end up with all new parts and fail safe mentality when you just throw money at it. :) And with gas at 3.45 a gallon, it may be cheaper to just get that stuff out of the way.
 
It doesnt matter if its an inch or a mile, winning's winning. the point is throwing parts at a car to fix it is ridiculous if the only way for you to have your dsm running is to throw parts at it INSTEAD OF FIXING THE PROBLEM then you dont deserve a dsm. And since you have so much money to throw around buy a lambo and when that brakes throw more money at it because that will fix it yay! And just because a part is used doesnt mean its half-ass you must be a rich kid did daddy buy that car of yours?

Back to the OP if you have loooads of money and can afford it just buy a new engine and all your problems will be solved! or you can follow a process find the problem and fix it and maybe save a buck or two

Wow.

All you do is talk out of your ass kid. My mommy and daddy are more than 1000 miles away from me, as I haven't lived with them for over 6 years, and if anything it's me handing them money :thumb:, But this isn;t about my finances so it's so childish for you to bring that up.

An o2 sensor and it's brittle wiring is the #1 cause of most rich idle and cruise conditions.

Furthermore, Who knows what the OP's automotive knowledge is? Not everyone can start tearing out sensors and testing things.

If he was that type of person, he wouldn't have had to post about it on the forums, he would have done investigation on his own.

Once again if you can read.

There are only about 6 things that can cause this issue. All of them combined don't add up to money he's wasting in gas day to day.

To the OP, (not for Mummy's reply). For peace of mind, When I did have this problem, I felt very comfortable throwing $100 towards parts..Why wouldn't I put all new parts on a motor that costed me well over $5000??

To each his own, I personally don't want to have to be tracking issues down on a fresh build but that's just me.

Mummy must be the OP's financial advisor, as he knows exactly what the OP's budget is. A measly $85 which could save him well over $700 a year or more. Shit I pay more than $85 a week to put insurance on three cars.

So not worth it man.
 
So riddle me this, say he pays the $85 for this new sensor. Now he isn't mechanically inclined (according to you since he posted this thread) how do you know he can install said o2 sensor on his own? A boost leak test or datalogging of any sort is on the same difficulty level as replacing an o2 sensor. Now also in MOST cases when an o2 sensor goes completely dead it throws a code, which the OP has not mentioned at all. Now say he replaces that $85 sensor and that isn't the problem, that's $85 out the door now that he's just replaced a perfectly fine o2 sensor and he STILL has to figure out his problem, so even more money spent on diagnosising and replacing another problem.

Like stated before, $85 to some is chump change, to others (like myself) who have a budget and have to stick with that budget throwing $85 out into a hole and burying it in the dirt with hopes it will bloom into a money tree is not an option. It's people like you that give DSM's bad names or hell any car. "Just replace everything until you've solved the problem" is the WORST idea. Go ask any real shop, mechanic, or anyone mechanically inclined, they will call you an idiot because of that mentality.
 
So riddle me this, say he pays the $85 for this new sensor. Now he isn't mechanically inclined (according to you since he posted this thread) how do you know he can install said o2 sensor on his own? A boost leak test or datalogging of any sort is on the same difficulty level as replacing an o2 sensor. Now also in MOST cases when an o2 sensor goes completely dead it throws a code, which the OP has not mentioned at all. Now say he replaces that $85 sensor and that isn't the problem, that's $85 out the door now that he's just replaced a perfectly fine o2 sensor and he STILL has to figure out his problem, so even more money spent on diagnosising and replacing another problem.

Like stated before, $85 to some is chump change, to others (like myself) who have a budget and have to stick with that budget throwing $85 out into a hole and burying it in the dirt with hopes it will bloom into a money tree is not an option. It's people like you that give DSM's bad names or hell any car. "Just replace everything until you've solved the problem" is the WORST idea. Go ask any real shop, mechanic, or anyone mechanically inclined, they will call you an idiot because of that mentality.

:thumb: Well said. That what I was trying to get across also. Let's help him diagnose his problem. Not just rattle off things to replace that MAY cure it, or MAY leave you scratching your head and spending more time with a poorly running car.
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Latest Classifieds

  • For sale 2g 2G Mishimoto Radiator & Fan Shroud
    2G Mishimoto Radiator & Fan Shroud $200 + shipping and paypal feesYou must be registered to...
    • jersygsx
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 2g 2G Power Window Switches ( tested and hardware included )
    2G Power Window Switches $55 + shipping and paypal fees* Tested 6/2/26 * Hardware included *...
    • jersygsx
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale VIRGIN 4G63 6-BOLT TURBO HEAD
    Came off a virgin stock AWD Auto 1G DMS (91), also have matching block and crank which are also...
    • The_Partout_Spot
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 1G DSM 4G63 6-BOLT TIMING COVER
    Used, see condition in photos. Buyer covers shipping / fees.
    • The_Partout_Spot
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale Garage clean out
    Changing setups on the car and getting rid of some stuff as well that's been laying around. Will...
    • 92GSXtacy
    • Updated:
    • Expires
Back
Top