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exhaust port wet with oil. whats my next step?

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drethib

10+ Year Contributor
63
0
Jan 25, 2009
Fairbanks, Alaska
Well i managed to pull off my manifold and turbo in my 4g63t and ran into my next dilema. the far right exhaust port is wet with oil. so looks to be piston damage? piston ring damage? i guess im looking at a rebuild or just a whole engine swap anyone have any tips?
 
A leaking valve seal, broken valve guide, or stuck injector will all lead to a wet-appearing exhaust port.

Do a compression test on that cylinder- compare your results to the other three to determine how well the valve is sealing.
 
Does this cause any damage? I know it's not good, but I have an extra 6 bolt sitting in the talon. I'm just waiting to blow my engine this summer, then I can swap a recent rebuild into my car..
 
Leaking exhaust valve seals will eventually compromise the sealing of the valve as the oil will run down the stem and burn to the sealing surface of where the valve meets the seat.

A broken / worn valve guide will compromise the sealing of the valve by not holding the valve perfectly straight in the seat. If it's even angled slightly, it's ability to seal under combustion is thrown out the window.

A dripping / stuck injector will cause poor driveability issues that will surface long before you notice a wetness in the exhaust port. Failure to repair a leaking injector will eventually fill the crankcase with unburnt fuel, ruining the oil's film strength. You can literally ruin your engine over a bad injector.
 
have a ballpark idea of what people pay to get their 4g63t rebuilt? nothing special, just stock? i do eventually want to rebuild myself but am still getting comfortable working on these dsm engines
 
My shop that does my heads, charges me $300-325 for rebuild and they do good work!
Shortblock will vary with what is necessary and what parts you buy.
 
im going to pull the whole engine and see whats lookin at me. I hope this wonderful problem of mine i$ only in the head $$$:banghead:

Then why would you pull the whole motor? You can do a leakdowncompression test to help you identify the problem and go from there.
 
This is the reason why I pulled my motor. All 4 exhaust ports were completely covered in oil. I knew it was either a head problem or an oil ring problem. I personally didn't bother doing anything more than a compression test (ran 180 on all 4) but I still pulled the motor anyway.
The oil rings looked pretty worn but I don't think that was the cause. I'm not sure how my valve stem seals were because I'm having the machine shop do the rebuild on the head since I don't have the proper tools for head work.

Oh, and I come to find my crank end play was 0.27, which was out of spec....

I'm still waiting to get the block and head back to reassemble the motor and get this thing back on the road for the summer!

Good luck with whatever you decide to do with it, hope you figure it out!
 
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