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Exhaust Manifold Question

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Not really, as stated above. Unless you just want some FLASH to go with the car. I would just stick with the Cast Iron manifold, less likely to have problems with heat stress.
 
Stick with the FP manifold. You could make more top end power on a T3 housing, but your BEP DSM housing on your HX35 is more than fine. Buying a crappy T3 manifold for looks though, is NOT the way to do things.
 
Stick with the FP manifold. You could make more top end power on a T3 housing, but your BEP DSM housing on your HX35 is more than fine. Buying a crappy T3 manifold for looks though, is NOT the way to do things.

I wasnt planning on getting It for looks. I had a feeling it wouldn't be any benefit except looks :thumb: btw the car made decent power. Even with a wastegate sticking problem. Link claims 404hp at 6200rpm in 3rd gear
 
I wouldn't call the PR T3 manifold crappy by any means.

I also wouldn't change over to any sort of tubular equal length manifold unless it was a twin scroll and I had a twin scroll turbo. I happen to have both, but I'm going to see what my 16g can do before making any changes.

If I were you and had a Holset in a BEP housing, I could think of a lot of other things to do to have a lot more fun with $1000. After making your car faster than you would with an equal length mani, there could be enough left over to do all kinds of things.

It is really great to pop the hood and see the shiny snaking tubes, but it is also wonderful to just drive the car and enjoy it. I've recently discovered that the acceleration of my car gives me a terrible headache similar to what riding a roller coaster does to me. I'm not sure how much longer I will be able to enjoy driving a fast car, even though I'll always enjoy building them.

You are thinking wisely. It has been shown that there are large power gains to be had going from log manifolds to equal length. However, the difference between equal length and a well cast manifold like the 2g don't really show up until higher HP levels. The 16g record was set on a ported 2g manifold, even though there are equal length DSM flanged manifold available. The FP manifold is better than a EVO3 manifold which is better than a 2g manifold. It really is a well thought out piece. Unless it is a twin scroll, don't bother.
 
I wasnt planning on getting It for looks. I had a feeling it wouldn't be any benefit except looks :thumb: btw the car made decent power. Even with a wastegate sticking problem. Link claims 404hp at 6200rpm in 3rd gear

Yeah...and mine says 450 on link. It means absolutely nothing. Don't get me wrong, T3 is the way to go but if you want the "bling factor", I would buy a legit one. In case any of you didn't read the OP, he already has a FP manifold. With the current setup he has, staying with the DSM housed HX35 would work really well. In my opinion, unless he's looking for massive horsepower he should be fine and pretty quick on the current setup. If you go T3, I would get a bigger turbo amongst other things.
 
Yeah...and mine says 450 on link. It means absolutely nothing. Don't get me wrong, T3 is the way to go but if you want the "bling factor", I would buy a legit one. In case any of you didn't read the OP, he already has a FP manifold. With the current setup he has, staying with the DSM housed HX35 would work really well. In my opinion, unless he's looking for massive horsepower he should be fine and pretty quick on the current setup. If you go T3, I would get a bigger turbo amongst other things.

well it made 333hp on a mustang dyno. :thumb:
But im pretty good with my current setup. It could always be alittle faster but thatll happen soon enough. Straighten a few things out and get retuned
 
Buy your manifold because it fits the turbo, not because it looks cool under the hood. One of those manifolds will fit DSM bolt-on turbos, the other does not.

If the car is a daily driver you'll absolutely HATE a tubular manifold unless you're ready for increased engine bay temps, possible cracking of the manifold from all of the hot/cold cycles, and paint being burnt off your valve cover.
 
Aggreed, I'm new to all this and I could of told u that the second one was for a different setup. And over that, the tube cracks real easy. I had one I forgot what kind it was but the old owner got it for 280$ and it was all black.

Well anyway cracked in 5 months and started melting paint on the hood(with heat shield on hood). Almost started the car into a fireball, I took it off his hands (the eclipse) for cheap. went back to stock mf for 30$ and works fine for me. Also will last way longer due to cast not pipe/tube.

Overall I say what ever fits in cast. If u happen to have to get tubes get something cheap because it will crack a lot faster then cast.
 
Buy your manifold because it fits the turbo, not because it looks cool under the hood. One of those manifolds will fit DSM bolt-on turbos, the other does not.

If the car is a daily driver you'll absolutely HATE a tubular manifold unless you're ready for increased engine bay temps, possible cracking of the manifold from all of the hot/cold cycles, and paint being burnt off your valve cover.

Ok thanks
 
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