Exhaust cam seems not to be moving

[canonize-ryda]

I have been fighting with my car trying to get her started after the rebuild. After checking ecu, battery, cas and so on i have come up with this: My starter isnt giving my car enough to start. That said it struggles to start the car and after installing a spare it does the same thing.

I seem to believe that maybe my valves where bent making it hard to turn over. So i pulled my cover and all the rockers are on and when turning over while cover is off all the valves do what they are supposed to do. I can slightly move the intake cam but he exhaust cam will only move under starter pressure. I cant seem to get it to turn with wrenches on the cams.

Any advice is greatly appreciated. Its also appears someone has messed with the cam before as it has a wrench slip spot on the main cam nut thingy.

Thanks

 

[bryanwheat]

Which mount are you talking about? The driver mount? That literally takes 5 minutes to remove, less than 1 minute with air tools. How did you use another engine to verify which rod cap came off what rod? There is no identification anywhere that says which goes to which rod. You have to put the cap back on the rod when you take the piston out. That is the only way to know without a bore gauge.

 

[BogusSVO]

Also if you were starting to spin a main bearing, the main bores need to be checked for proper housing bore size.

Rod caps, and main caps have to go in the proper spot/rod and face the correct way.

 

[canonize-ryda]

Ok just maybe i messed up the caps. I dont think i did but who knows. I used the other engine to put in the thrust bearing and so forth in the correct spots. I did the arrows facing the way they were when they were on the engine.

You guys think i can remove maybe the rod caps and see if they were wrong and go from there. And yea im talking the driver mount its not hard to remove but i have needed a cherry picker everytime to get it back on the correct way.

 

[BogusSVO]

If you have the caps facing the right way, but in the wrong position, say #2 and #3 swapped around, it stands a good chance on making the engine stiff to turn.

On the con rods, make sure the locking tab, in the cap is on the same side as the locking tab on the rod. I hope the rods have some sort of side mark to help ID what cap to what rod.

 

[bryanwheat]

Ok just maybe i messed up the caps. I dont think i did but who knows. I used the other engine to put in the thrust bearing and so forth in the correct spots. I did the arrows facing the way they were when they were on the engine.

You guys think i can remove maybe the rod caps and see if they were wrong and go from there. And yea im talking the driver mount its not hard to remove but i have needed a cherry picker everytime to get it back on the correct way.

When you took the pistons and rods out did you just take the cap off and sit it somewhere or did you do them one by one and reinstall the cap on the rod that you just took out.

 

[canonize-ryda]

I messed up with the rod caps im sure. I did remove all them at once and installed in some random order. Looks like i may have found out what i did wrong. Ill look to see if there is any indication showing me the correct order on the rod caps.

Thanks for helping me figure out my damn mistake, now to go feel like a damn idiot .

Yea i just loosened the rods caps and now it spins free as a bird. I have decided to tighten each one till i find which ones are locking it up. I feel so relieved i wont have to pull my engine again.

Thanks for every ones help!!

I also found a spun bearing down there. I have it all figured out just need to replace one of the bearings. I found that 2 caps were in the wrong place so now all is good. Ill let everyone know if it starts after i fix it.

 

[bryanwheat]

You need to pull the bearings out of the rod and cap, install the cap and measure them to be sure that they are right. You could have 2 that are close, and have one with too much clearance and one with not enough. Just because the motor turns over doesn't mean that the cap is the right one. This motor isn't going to last long i hope you know. You have to have the correct clearances, and the journals have to be perfectly round.

 

[canonize-ryda]

As long as it lasts at least till next summer and i can rebuild it with New knife edge busher crank. New wiesco pistons and eagle rods. I more or less learned a lesson here. Next thing i get will be a micrometer. All i can say is that i am happy i might even get to drive this car. I mean the first 48 miles was like sticking your shit half way in but overthinking it. I just want to at least get some break in on the clutch and pp.

 

[bryanwheat]

I personally don't see it lasting 100 miles from the way things have been put together on it.

 

[canonize-ryda]

I guess we will see. Its not like im a moron but yea i mixed them up since they didn't have indicators on them. Im guaranteed 2 were right off the bat and the other were just switched. The bearings take 3-5 days to get here. Ill install the day i get them and be boosting in no time.

 

[bryanwheat]

I guess we will see. Its not like im a moron but yea i mixed them up since they didn't have indicators on them. Im guaranteed 2 were right off the bat and the other were just switched. The bearings take 3-5 days to get here. Ill install the day i get them and be boosting in no time.

Just because it turns over doesn't mean that they are right on the other rods. Seriously, if you don't measure the inner bore of the rod with the caps on than it isn't going to last long at all.

 

[rEclipserGST]

Lifters. Check those on the exhaust side. Need to use a paperclip or something small enough to compress the lifters & push out all the oil. Then prime them.

This will hinder the cam turning off.

 

[bryanwheat]

Lifters. Check those on the exhaust side. Need to use a paperclip or something small enough to compress the lifters & push out all the oil. Then prime them.

This will hinder the cam turning off.

Did you even read the thread, or did you just look at the title and make an assumption?

 

[canonize-ryda]

I will have to save the measurements for later. I cannot afford a micrometer atm. I just want to drive it a bit. I have total respect in what you say and yea i will probably never skip measuring again. There is always another build.

 

[canonize-ryda]

Swapped the bearing and did some more cap swapping and they seem to be in the correct order now. It starts up good and runs now.

I got it to warm up and i called it a day.

Thanks guys for all your help