Evo brake swap checklist

[Atuca]

I have read most if not all of the evo brake swap from stock GSX setup threads as I been very anxious to complete mine. I am getting pictures and documenting specs ect so I can do the first real full walkthrough of this set up.

The one thing the current threads have is calipers, rotors, knuckles, and ect/misc parts.

Granted I do have access to another DD, I want to get all the parts together I am going to need and would like to have input from DSMers who have successfully completed the swap. This is assuming you complete all 4 corners btw.

checklist:

[ ] Evo VII-IX calipers

[ ] Evo VII-IX Rotors

[ ] Evo Brake pads

[ ] JDM Galant knuckles

[ ] Wheels with +28 offset or less


now as for the "misc" parts. I have heard that you use dsm lines for the front but not rear, i have heard the other way around as well too. Again, assuming you are going from stock dsm brakes, what brake lines do I need to get?

I heard stock rear caliper bolts will work on the evo, but I need new front bolts? One of the threads even had part number for the bolts, but I don't know if that is for sure or not. Something about washers too.. hmm.

Are there any other misc parts I will need? Once I get all this info I will clean it up, make lots of pictures, and get everyone a tech article to base their upgrades on

On a personal note, I am waiting for the calipers to arrive in the mail so I haven't had a chance to try anything, I got everythign else though so I want to get parts I will need so I don't have to wait.



*edit* Here was the you also will need from the other good evo brake swap thread:

Front Pins and anti squeal springs= MR475935 MSRP- $54.42 EA (you will need 1)

Rear Pins and anti squeal springs= MR475936 MSRP- $9.40 EA (you will need 1)

Front caliper mounting bolt= MR370729 MSRP- $7.42 EA (you will need 4)
Washer Part Number is MR407072 MSRP- $2.53 EA (4 needed.)

edit the OEM bolts will need to be cut, but by purchasing your own grade 10.9 bolts for a quarter of the price, you can get the perfect size with no cutting required. Those sizes are:

Front: M12 1.75X 40 MM
Rear: M10 1.5X 25 MM

each will need a flat washer and a lock washer


**MORE EDIT**

Front EVO shields (MR569183 & MR569184)

Need dust shields for the fronts, the rear are either trimmed or done yourself. Grabbed that from the current tech article.

 

[Atuca]

I also just found out there is a special way I am supposed to bleed the brakes? Is that true and if so, how do I do it?

Things like this in general I would like to know.

 

[UofACATS]

I'll help as best I can. This info refers to my car, an early 1995 GSX.

checklist:

[ ] Evo VII-IX calipers

[ ] Evo VII-IX Rotors

[ ] Evo Brake pads

[ ] JDM Galant knuckles

[ ] Wheels with +28 offset or less

Get new brake fluid. I used ATE Blue.

You need the crush washers for the brake line at the caliper. Replace these. I took in the old one and matched it at ACE hardware.

Rims: I cannot help, I use evo9 rims. The offset is 38.

now as for the "misc" parts. I have heard that you use dsm lines for the front but not rear, i have heard the other way around as well too. Again, assuming you are going from stock dsm brakes, what brake lines do I need to get?

Use your stock brake lines. Front and rear. You don't need new lines. In fact if you look at the stock (front) DSM brake line, you'll see it's the banjo bolt that screws into the caliper, the line just holds that bolt(and in theory could hold a different bolt). Note: Now this brings up another issue. Are the banjo bolts the same? No, they are slightly different. Whether they function the same is unknown. My evo calipers came with banjo bolts, so I used those. It's worth noting that the DSM banjo bolts do thread into the evo caliper just fine. I suspect either could be used. YMMV!!

I heard stock rear caliper bolts will work on the evo, but I need new front bolts? One of the threads even had part number for the bolts, but I don't know if that is for sure or not. Something about washers too.. hmm.

I used the stock Evo9 bolts for the front calipers, they work fine. The evo9 bolts on the rear are slightly too long and press into the rotor. I measured and trimmed off the end of the bolt, then cleaned up the threads. Then I used locktite to install because I got paranoid.

Are there any other misc parts I will need? Once I get all this info I will clean it up, make lots of pictures, and get everyone a tech article to base their upgrades on

Just what I listed above. AFAIK.

*edit* Here was the you also will need from the other good evo brake swap thread:

Front Pins and anti squeal springs= MR475935 MSRP- $54.42 EA (you will need 1)

Rear Pins and anti squeal springs= MR475936 MSRP- $9.40 EA (you will need 1)

Front caliper mounting bolt= MR370729 MSRP- $7.42 EA (you will need 4)

FYI: the front caliper mounting bolts need washers... (you will need 4) rears can be bolted on using the OEM rear bolts from your DSM.

Washer Part Number is MR407072 MSRP- $2.53 EA (4 needed.)

Front EVO shields (MR569183 & MR569184)

Need dust shields for the fronts, the rear are either trimmed or done yourself. Grabbed that from the current tech article.

If you get new pads you don't need the squeal springs, the pads will come with them. The caliper should come with the pins as well.

Shields: you can if you want to. If not, you can trim the protruding lip off your current shield. I just mashed a giant flat screwdriver in there and ripped them off. Probably not the best idea in hindsight.




Post questions.

 

[UofACATS]

I also just found out there is a special way I am supposed to bleed the brakes? Is that true and if so, how do I do it?

Yes.

You're getting the air out of the brake lines, so bleed like a normal 2G DSM. With regard to the calipers, bleed the outside bleeder first, then bleed the inside. Note: There are threads on evoM stating the opposite! I'm no expert, I'm just suggesting you take your research as slightly suspect internet knowledge. With that said, look at the following link.

Here's a How-To:
Brake Bleeding - JOE250.com

One suggestion: When removing the clear line from the bleeder(at the caliper), try to drain all the brake fluid out first. You'll find that's impossible, so get it as best you can. Then, take a clean rag and pinch the hose together as you gently pull it off. Use both hands and keep the rag tight against the bottom the hose. This keeps the calipers nice and brake-fluid free.

 

[Atuca]

Can you go into more detail with the caliper bolts?

Some people said they use the stock DSM rear caliper bolts, and you are saying you use stock evo bolts.

What is the difference? Is it a length thing, a thread pitch thing, or size or what?

Do I have to go the a mitsubishi dealership to get these bolts, or can I just go to a hardware store that has metric bolts. Do these bolts have to be heat treated like an exhaust bolt, or do the caliper bolts not get hot enough to matter.

It seems these bolts are tricky for everyone, I have read alot of contridicting ideas. The only thing I can think of is dsms with drums in the back may need new bolts, otherwise, dsms with discs all around, do they really need new bolts?

better yet, a picture? I just bought the front bolts from kragen and there isn't thread on the bottom half of the bolt, I have no idea how that is supposed to work with the caliper without thread on the end. they assured me it was the same thing at half the dealership price, both bolts for 10 bucks, so total 20 for both front calipers.

 

[Scrymerr]

I am in a bit of a hurry right now, but I think UofA pretty much covered everything that is important. The evo brake swap is really easy (my calipers will be here tomorrow, I will show you pics) and all the hardware for it I got at ACE as well, I would not go to the dealership. You don't need to. I used grade 12.9 hex head bolts, and lock washers. I believe the bolts in the rear are M10x1.5 on the evo calipers and M10x1.25 on the DSM calipers. So, the thread pitch is what's different in the rear. I am pretty darn sure the same is true for the front as well.

Again, I will have my calipers tomorrow and will reply with pics and a full parts list of the hardware needed from Ace.

Also, in regards to the heatshields, I will not be running them. And to everyone doing this conversion, please don't trim the rear heatshields, every one I have seen turned out like crap. There are about 8-10 spotwelds holding it on, just grind them and the heatshield will come right off. The surface underneath can quickly and easily be cleaned and painted to leave no evidence of a heatshield ever having been there. Once again, pics tomorrow

 

[UofACATS]

Some people said they use the stock DSM rear caliper bolts, and you are saying you use stock evo bolts. What is the difference? Is it a length thing, a thread pitch thing, or size or what?

Sorry, I did the swap awhile back and can't be certain either way, but the rear evo brakes are known to be true bolt-on. After thinking about this, going back and forth, I went out, laid on the ground, and took a picture. Compare these to your DSM bolts and get back to me.

Do I have to go the a mitsubishi dealership to get these bolts, or can I just go to a hardware store that has metric bolts. Do these bolts have to be heat treated like an exhaust bolt, or do the caliper bolts not get hot enough to matter.

That I can't say.


I did a write-up of my install if your a member..
ECMTuning User Support Forums




...pics in a sec.

 

[turbosax2]

The Evo rear bolts are longer (10x30) than 2g bolts (10x16.5). I'm not sure of any thread pitch difference though. From what I can tell in CAPS, the Evo doesn't use flanged bolts like 2g's do, and the Evo uses a regular washer instead of a lockwasher (although using a lockwasher wouldn't hurt). In case you need them, here are the part numbers:

MR370730 - Rear brake bolt
MR407073 - Rear brake washer

If you get them from the hardware store instead, get the strongest rated hex head bolt you can find.

 

[UofACATS]

Fronts here.

 

[UofACATS]

Rears here

 

[crimsondragon]

Call up RRE. Tell them what you're doing and say you need the brake lines. They'll hook you up. I remember reading it's different. You should be going with SS braided lines anyway.

 

[UofACATS]

Call up RRE. Tell them what you're doing and say you need the brake lines. They'll hook you up. I remember reading it's different. You should be going with SS braided lines anyway.

I know it's hard to see, but the pictures above show evoIX calipers and 95 DSM brake lines. You might be remembering this in error:

RRE
Adapter Brake Lines
1G With 2G Style front Brakes $135 8 Lines
2G With 1G/3000GT Style Front Brakes $105 4 Lines
So you went shopping for big brake calipers on E-Bay and ended up with the wrong calipers? We have brake lines that will allow you to fit them on. They are custom so they cost a bit more than the normal kits we offer.

 

[Atuca]

Well I have heard it both ways, from people who have installed the brakes. Is it possible there is a difference between evo VIII and evo IX calipers? perhaps the brake line fittings are different?

I can't tell from the pictures how long the bolts are or how they differ, the head of my bolts look the same

Why did I order my calipers last? >.<

As for stainless steel braided brake lines, that is just another hundred dollars I will have to spend later if I can use my stock lines for now. If I have to buy evo lines I would get the SS lines now, but otherwise I'd like to see/feel a before and after anyways, since from what I hear the difference is neglegible anyways.


I don't know how you feel about taking the bolts out, but for a picture and measurements, could you pull just one per caliper (front and rear)?

 

[BoostFrenzy]

I have a quick question about this setup. I am mapping it out and am wondering if there are any problems with using aftermarket rotors with this setup. Say something like this. I don't think there would be as long as they are the same diameter as the stock Evo rotors correct?

And, who of you have also "ordered" the JDM ABS sensor to retain your stock ABS? I currently do not run the ABS (fuse pulled), and I am thinking that with such stopping force, it may be required.

Thanks fellas.

 

[BoostFrenzy]

If I have to buy evo lines I would get the SS lines now, but otherwise I'd like to see/feel a before and after anyways, since from what I hear the difference is neglegible anyways.

Hardly. Doing SS lines on ANY car will improve not only the stopping power, but also make for a better pedal feel as it is no longer soft due to soft lines.

 

[Atuca]

If the caliper fits your rims correctly with stock rotors, the aftermarket rotors have to fit the stock evo setup (most of the time).

As for ABS, I ordered mine because I didn't want to ditch abs for this very reason. People who take out abs do it for the small weight savings as well as different pedal feel when hard braking. This is my opinion, but unless you are drag racing and every pound counts, I'd rather have abs around a corner than locking them up and having no control around a corner.

That said, I am not perfessional autoXer, so maybe they lock them up on purpose and have a way to get 'er ass around a corner, but I'd think not. That is a question for someone who does the sport though I believe.

 

[BoostFrenzy]

If the caliper fits your rims correctly with stock rotors, the aftermarket rotors have to fit the stock evo setup (most of the time).

As for ABS, I ordered mine because I didn't want to ditch abs for this very reason. People who take out abs do it for the small weight savings as well as different pedal feel when hard braking. This is my opinion, but unless you are drag racing and every pound counts, I'd rather have abs around a corner than locking them up and having no control around a corner.

That said, I am not perfessional autoXer, so maybe they lock them up on purpose and have a way to get 'er ass around a corner, but I'd think not. That is a question for someone who does the sport though I believe.

Thanks Philip! I guess I'll order the sensor and then test out if I like it without the ABS. Because then it's as simple as pulling the fuse again. I originally pulled the fuse because the DSM ABS is the retarded child in the ABS world. It doesn't sense a locking wheel like the Evo systems (and those are independant wheel locking sensors.....lucky bastards...but I know something is in the works for that ), it just sees hard pedal pressure and clicks on to evade any lock up ("Nurrr! He's pressing hard! Nurrrr!"). This however, also makes for a very poor stopping performance.

I figure, if it gets lock happy, I just need wider rims and tires .

But thank you for this thread to all those who are submitting information. If you could edit the parts list as more becomes clear Philip, then maybe this could become a sticky in the future for Evo Brembo swaps seeing as the other threads are REALLY scattered.

 

[Atuca]

Yea I am no pro, but trying to go through the dozens of threads, I am trying to bring it all to one place. The current tech article just shows you it is possible but doesn't go into much detail, so the plan is to grab all the required part numbers, and give a write up from start to finish from getting the parts together to getting it installed.

I do want to reitterate I am no pro on the abs system of a DSM. I know I would probably kill to have the evo X abs, it looks to be out of this world. The fitment thing I do know though, and if that rotor has to fit inside of the caliper just the same as a stock rotor would on an Evo, it will fit the DSM. When it gets more complicated is if you get aftermarket Evo calipers on your dsm and are looking for rotors to fit them. When you go down that path of aftermarket parts, they can create whatever combo of sizes they want.

Anyways, hope to get the last bit of info I am looking for and once my calipers show up, I will start writing my write up. I'll give you guys a link if becomes a tech article or if they just add it to the current.

 

[BoostFrenzy]

Yea I am no pro, but trying to go through the dozens of threads, I am trying to bring it all to one place. The current tech article just shows you it is possible but doesn't go into much detail, so the plan is to grab all the required part numbers, and give a write up from start to finish from getting the parts together to getting it installed.

I'm pretty sure RRE has a full parts list to do this. They will even make custom SS lines to make everything work right instead of being rigged up. You could probably give them a call or Email and they will give you everything you want/need.

Anyways, hope to get the last bit of info I am looking for and once my calipers show up, I will start writing my write up. I'll give you guys a link if becomes a tech article or if they just add it to the current.

I demand tons of pictures

 

[erald01]

I like the evo brakes but can someone do a total amount of how much it would cost me to put a set on (front and rear)? I mean is it worth it spending over a $1000 on them or better off getting aftermarket ones like wildwood, or baer or even brembos?

 

[Scrymerr]

I like the evo brakes but can someone do a total amount of how much it would cost me to put a set on (front and rear)? I mean is it worth it spending over a $1000 on them or better off getting aftermarket ones like wildwood, or baer or even brembos?

The calipers are going for about $500
Stock rotors can be had for about $150
or
Aftermarket rotors $400++
JDM knuckles $400-450
Lines?
Hardware $40

This swap will be more expensive than a comparable kit for the fronts, and requires more work, but you will have matching calipers all around. Also the evo rears are bigger than factory rear disks. I want to go with the evo setup but can't afford aftermarket rotors. I am selling my Rotora BBK and Rotora disks and lines in the rear and I hope I don't have to shell out too much extra cash to finish the swap. Also, I will unfortunately go from nice slotted rotors to factory ones, but I can upgrade rotors easily once I get extra money.

 

[BoostFrenzy]

I like the evo brakes but can someone do a total amount of how much it would cost me to put a set on (front and rear)? I mean is it worth it spending over a $1000 on them or better off getting aftermarket ones like wildwood, or baer or even brembos?

Have you ever priced out a Brembo or Rotora or even Baer front only kit?? This is even to half to almost a third of what those cost for a front only set. And to me, this also opens up a slew of other opportunities for insane kits that are normally Evo only because there isn't that big of a market for DSM brake kits. That's because of the DSM market direction. Mostly focused on going, not stopping. Hence why most of ours are front only.

 

[Hideki]

When I did my Brembo conversion, I had to order the EVO caliper bolts for the front and the rear. The factory rears were a different thread pitch, and the bolts too long. I haven't encountered anyone else that had this problem but mine did (people are telling me the DSM bolts were longer but this wasn't the case with my conversion). My car has no ABS so I can not comment on this. I had previously upgraded my GST with GSX front brakes and SS lines, The SS lines I used (stock length) worked perfectly fine. When I bled my calipers I first bled the outboard bleeder first and then the inboard bleeder, I haven't the slightest clue if this is the correct way but it made sense at the time and I haven't had problems. Being honest, while the EVO Brembo calipers bite really hard the pedal feel is less than expected, it's not spongy, but you can tell the factory GST master cylinder is not adequate for the Brembos.

 

[Scrymerr]

Well, I got my Brembos in the mail today. Unfortunately I did not get them until about 6:00 so I had no time to go to the store and get the hardware list put together. I will post a picture in lieu of the parts list.

 

[Atuca]

I'm still waiting for mine. I got a package and was all happy, til I realized it was just my new FP race mani.

Never thought I be unhappy getting new car parts.

I am more excited about stopping than going fast atm . I sent a few pms to people and they seemed to have mostly all chimed in. It looks like we are going to need new caliper bolts all around.

and I can use my stock brake lines, woot. General concenous is to get SS braided, so that I will have to do next.

Let me know how your swap goes Scrymerr.