Evo 8 ECU In 2g Works!!

[delta448]

jjgrizz73, you're right, the correct injectors for the current settings being swapped in will definitely improve the idle and basically help everywhere in the rpm band. But what I was saying is that if he hasn't re-scaled the MAF then the ecu is still going to be adding the wrong amount of fuel since the IPW is in part determined by the MAF signal.

I would take a look at the latencies then clockworktoy. Not sure what to use for 450s but if you swap in the 560s or larger the values are all out there, I think there's a link somewhere on Evom to the table AEM sends with the purchase of an EMS. Has a lot of the more popular sizes and the voltage based values in a table. I'll see if I can find it...

 

[jjgrizz73]

I see exactly what you mean. I was running 680's when I did the swap. My friend did rescale the maf because it was running rough at idle. But after he did, and I switched to the EDM rom the car is idling perfectly. I also adjusting the latencys and scaling for the injectors. I'd put the evo ones in anyways since you are going to and use the stock values. I heard the evo scaling run slightly rich but they are close.

 

[clockworktoy]

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These are the settings i was trying to use with stock 450 injectors. I was kind of confused seeing as the OP didn't mention anything about the latency since these are smaller than the stock evo injectors. So if i just drop in the evo injectors would i still need to rescale the maf since its a smaller maf? (smaller than the evo maf)

Sorry if all this sounds kind of noob, im just new to the whole tuning thing. I got help from a friend when tuning with my afc in the past.

 

[delta448]

I still have no idea what the latencies should be for the 450cc injectors, but:
Found this on Evom, for stock JDM Evo injector settings, just in case you need that when you install the Evo injectors. I'd only check the table in EcuFlash to see how close it is to these if you haven't fudged them any yet.

This is the JDM Evo injector latency

3.312

1.68

1.032

0.72

0.48

0.36

0.24

got this out from the ralliart ecu

Found in this thread: Injector scaling and latecy for different injectors. - evolutionm.net

edit: I type slow. It looks like you're still using the stock 560cc latency values, I'd go for the swap right now instead of guessing/calculating what the 450 latencies should be using fuel trims. Less headaches.

 

[mike96]

OK well i did another flash to my ecu fixed my MAF scaling ( i forgot to adjust them initially) i also checked my DTC's, and not in that order. After switching to the EDM ROM my 2 codes for the Crank sensor the 1 for evap SOL and the one for something else i cant remember off the top of my head, are all gone. now i have a code P0505 and P0622, idle control circuit and Generator FR Terminal Circuit Malfunction. has anyone else had a problem with either of these two codes after switching? i am going to mess with it here in a bit, i need to zero out my translator and mount the ecu in its place.

 

[jjgrizz73]

I didnt throw them two codes, I threw the EGR malf. and the wastegate solenoid. Other than that nothing at all...

 

[clockworktoy]

Problem solved! Just reflashed with the evo injector scaling, and the evo injectors in. Car idles like before BUT the rpm tach does bounce around a bit at idle and sometime even just drops to 0 (car still on and idling normal during all of this) Im going to do a little bit of driving and see how it goes.

 

[jjgrizz73]

Yes, I figured the car would be fine with the evo injectors and stock tables in place. Good to hear, my tach also does that...been a sligtht problem but when on the gas it reads properly so I dont mind much.

 

[Sam@RRE]

Gus, I'll take a look at your car at the meet tonight. Working on a new base map for ya, just playing around with it. So tonight I'll get the car to run right and maybe get a little street tooning. Next dyno day I'll try to dial you in.

 

[GSXDNA]

Yes but right now hes having idling problems with the stock 450cc injectors, thats why I mentioned to just put the stock evo injectors in so the values will already be set...

Hmmm...I'm about to put some 850's in next week. I am currently running the stock Evo injector latency values. Will the latency values need to be changed when I bump up to 850s?

 

[jjgrizz73]

Hmmm...I'm about to put some 850's in next week. I am currently running the stock Evo injector latency values. Will the latency values need to be changed when I bump up to 850s?

Yes def, look it up on EvoM for which brand injectors. Theres a whole thread dedicated to latencys and flow rates for each brand and size injectors.

 

[Sam@RRE]

Playing with his ECU last night, saw the issues with the whole get up. The bouncy crazy tach has something to do with the ecu to tach output signal. The transistor pack to ecu rpm signal is correct (car runs) but it has something to do with the signal output to tach calibration or the way the signal is sent. Either can figure out the difference between tach operation on the 2g and Evo and create some sort of buffer to get the signals right, or just run an aftermarket tach.. Another thing that was stated in an above post, stock boost gauge will not work, yes, it gets its signal from the ECU as an estimated boost off of airflow count, load, AIT, and Baro. Couldn't get the 2step to work, has anyone had a chance to play with stat rev limit (2step). EVO8.5/9 came with a stat rev limit from the factory. Talking to Scot Gray about it, and the ECU requires two conditions to be met in order to enable stat rev. Clutch Switch and Vehicle speed. The clutch switch pin 67 see's a constant signal, and the clutch switch breaks that signal. If anyone feels compelled to get the 2step to work, (at least attempt this) Cut wire going to pin67 and leave the harness side dangling, splice a 3-4' wire into the BLACK/RED wire coming out of your cruise control switch (top of clutch pedal travel) and then connect that wire to pin67 coming out of the ECU and give the 2step a test.

Something about the EDM rom requires the clutch switch and the JDM/USDM or some other one only has the vehicle speed prerequisites. You can just to the JDM/USD and deal with the immobilizer and get the stat rev to work, but if this method works it in essence will work and you can set it up to cut the signal for vehicle speed at the same time, in essence you will have a NLTS set up.

Other than that, played with the ignition tables a bit to clean it up, and then started working on the fuel tables and taking this is on a laptop from 1902 maybe, every task took three times longer than it should but in the end the laptop died so. HAHA no progress there.

 

[clockworktoy]

So the maf scaling of injector latency didn't have as much to do with the car idling as i though. Even after reflashing the car would have a hard time idling when cold, and as soon as it reached operating temp it would just died. Fixed this by messing with the biss screw so thats solved. Next like sam said the tach problem is definetly something im going to have to have to address. While at WOT and above 4k it will just drop and bounce around from 1k-4k till i let off. And sam did you get a chance to look at my map today? I would like to see what kind of changes you made. I hope we can have another dyno day so we can actually do some tuning and turn up the boost ;].

 

[Sam@RRE]

So the maf scaling of injector latency didn't have as much to do with the car idling as i though. Even after reflashing the car would have a hard time idling when cold, and as soon as it reached operating temp it would just died. Fixed this by messing with the biss screw so thats solved. Next like sam said the tach problem is definetly something im going to have to have to address. While at WOT and above 4k it will just drop and bounce around from 1k-4k till i let off. And sam did you get a chance to look at my map today? I would like to see what kind of changes you made. I hope we can have another dyno day so we can actually do some tuning and turn up the boost ;].

Email it to me or hit me up on AIM.

 

[clockworktoy]

Email it to me or hit me up on AIM.

AIMED!

 

[Sam@RRE]

Wasn't at work!!

 

[mike96]

something that was posted to evolutionm.net to fix the tach issue was to disconnect the white wire from the transistor pack to the ecu. at least one person on evoM confirmed that it works, i was going to try it tonight.

also has anyone figured out a fix to the CAS/CRANK signal CEL yet? i have been looking into reasons as to what might be cauging this problem but i dont have access spare evo parts to confirm suspessions. i would like to get this fixed because i seem to be having problems with running lean. i did a full throlttle run with my car to get some logging in and figure out what what kind of tuning it might need, and now it runs like poop under low load. coughs and stutters...not sure if it is the EDM rom's lean spool or other issues...

 

[clockworktoy]

Have you tried to dissable the lean spool? And i did get a cel but it was for an idle issue. If cutting that wire resolves the tach problem let us know! I really don't want an aftermarket gauge. And sam goddamit!! =(

 

[turbolarry]

I don't know if you guys have tried this, but in Evos the injector scaling table is set less then what the injectors are acually rated. For example, stock evo injectors are rated at 560cc, but stock scaling table has 513cc. I'm running 650cc, but have 597cc in the scaling table.

 

[mike96]

ok so here is where i am at with my car... i posted this on EvolutionM and thought i might put it up here for some more input.

"both the EVO8 ecu and eclipse ecu are pin 58. i just pulled mine, so far so good but the ecu still needs to go trough its re-learn process so we will see. i cant remember if it did it before with a high/clod idle or not...

anyway i might have made some progress on the crank/cam sensor problem... i found an EVO8 FSM and did some looking. apparently it seems that pin 40 on the EVO8 ecu is a ground for the crank/cam and inlet air sensors... on the eclipse wiring there is nothing there....so from what i can see on the EVO8 wiring, the cam/crank sensors do not ground to the chassis like on the eclipse. also something that might be playing a factor is according to the eclipse there is a chassis ground going to pin 91, on the EVO8 this pin goes to the inter-cooler sprayer (ICS) manual switch. basically the way i see it is when you push the ICS manual it completes a ground path to that pin. so with the chassis ground from the eclipse run to that pin you are basically telling the EVO8 ecu that you are permanently holding the ISC manual switch in. i don't know yet it that does anything to the way the EVO8 tunes but i am going to ask the question.

so basically what i think i am going to do this weakened is this. i already pulled pin 58 and 91. next i am going to pull pins 13 and 26 then disconnect the that chassis ground. then i am going to ( with an adapter ) plug one of those pins to the EVO8 pin 40 and tape the rest of the pins/ ground terminals of. finally i am going to run a separate ground to pins 13 and 26 otherwise i don't think i will get the car running again without the ecu grounded.

wish me luck..."

 

[mike96]

ooh and i figured out what my hesitation was.. apparently the ceramic around the electrode on my #2 spark plug broke loose. i didn't shatter but is broke loose in a way that let it fall down and completely cover the electrode.....

 

[mike96]

well that didn't work as well as i would have hoped. moving pins around wasn't as easy as i thought it would be. so this is what i did i put all the grounds back where they were and ran a separate ground from pin 40 on the ecu to the cam and crank sensors. unfortunately it didn't clear the problem. i also tried changing some of the periphery bits. all i did was figure out how to disable to disable the TPS , so i think i am going to switch over to my EDM map for now. I also pulled the wire from pin 91. i don't think there is a reason to pull it but if it is grounded it makes the ecu thing you are holding the ICS manual button down. haven't gotten confirmation that it changes anything in the tune but you never know.

 

[clockworktoy]

So i got the studder box to work, sam was right and wrong. You need to cut the wire going to pin 43 not 67 (since there is no 67) and then splice the ecu side of that into the red/black wire on the cruise control switch. Other than that ive still had no progress on my idle cel, but im working on it. And mike96 i haven't followed your post that close but if i can think of anything else that might help ill let you know. PS sam if you read this before the monday night meet send me the rom as soon as your done ;].

 

[clockworktoy]

Anyone make any progress on the rpm problem?

 

[mike96]

yes... sorry about that i have been busy trying yo get a couple other things sorted out on my car. pull pin 58, on the evo ecu it is an output for "ENGINE SPEED DETECTION CONNECTOR" the one you wound hook up a tach to. i pulled mine now it runs rock solid at idle.