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evo 16g waste gate arm brkoe!!

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power=dsm

15+ Year Contributor
268
2
Aug 22, 2003
:mad: it seems the waste gate actuator arm, were it meets the waste gate flapper disconnected(broke apart)! It's a brand new turbo with the 34mm flapper upgrade? it seems that the weld that was put on broke off? Can i just bring it to a shop and have them weld it back on or do i have to take off the turbo to make sure when they weld it back on it all goes on properly and is aligned good so the waste gate still opens on time.?

to make it clearer it's were the the nipple on the waste gate flapper meets the waste gate acutator arm where the cotter pin is. that section broke off!
 
power=dsm said:
:mad: it seems the waste gate actuator arm, were it meets the waste gate flapper disconnected(broke apart)! It's a brand new turbo with the 34mm flapper upgrade? it seems that the weld that was put on broke off? Can i just bring it to a shop and have them weld it back on or do i have to take off the turbo to make sure when they weld it back on it all goes on properly and is aligned good so the waste gate still opens on time.?

to make it clearer it's were the the nipple on the waste gate flapper meets the waste gate acutator arm where the cotter pin is. that section broke off!

it is possible to braze it back on when it is in the car after removing the radiator fan, but its not that hard just to take the housing off and bring it some where. another idea would be to drill out the spot it broke off at and braze in a new steel rod about the same length and then drill a hole in it for a cotter pin, or drill the hole for the cotter pin then braze it in. if i am picturing in my head correctly how you broke it off either way you can still have something weld on that will work

also check to make sure that the tension isn't to tight on the rod i have seen some 16g turbo housing with the 34mm flapper have to have the angle that, the arm is at changed
 
ya it looks like there is some more material so that i can weld it back on, but if i don't put it back on properly won't that affect the spool up time or how the flapper opens?
 
obviously thats not the broken one but kinda helps looks like you circled the part opposite of the cotter pin, yes that can be brazed back on thats how people move the angle of it. its not that hard the welder will know how to go about its pretty straight forward. also its better for the arm to be a little loose becuase you can always use washers or spacers (in between were the actuator bolts up to the turbo) depending how much slack there is in the arm to pull it tighter.
 
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