2G Euro GS Stalls/Shuts off when warm

[muselmann]

Heyo people I have a 99‘ GS (EUDM Model) with a 4G63 N/T and the car shuts off after getting some temp when not moving.
I changed the camshaft sensor already, it did not fix the problem.
There is also still a CEL coming on sometimes while driving. If I turn off the car while the light is on, I know for sure I can‘t turn it on again until it‘s cooled down again.
If I disconnect the airflow sensor, the car idles for 7secs and turns off after those 7secs.

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I have no diagnostics device. Maybe someone can help me with their own experience.

 

[waltah]

When the car shuts off while hot, can you restart it immediately? Or do you have to wait for it to cool?

'Shuts off when hot and will not restart until cool' is often an ignition problem -- transistor or sometimes coil.

Probably going to have to go through this step by step though.

 

[muselmann]

When the car shuts off while hot, can you restart it immediately? Or do you have to wait for it to cool?

'Shuts off when hot and will not restart until cool' is often an ignition problem -- transistor or sometimes coil.

Probably going to have to go through this step by step though.

I have to wait for it to cool down.

Okay well then I gotta go get new coils. What do you mean by transistors tho? It‘s an electrical component, yes. But what exactly do you mean?

I guess the cam sensor was step 1 haha

 

[waltah]

All of our cars use a power transistor to switch each of the coils. That gives a hotter spark and allows control by a low power device in the Engine Control Unit. On the 4g63T models the transtors are in a flat package just to the right side of the coils -- probably the same on yours.

First thing is: If you are getting a CEL there should be a code stored. What is that code? If you don't have a reader many auto parts stores will read it for you and all of them also sell code readers at various prices -- the cheapest will work fine.

The code may tell you exactly what's wrong -- that was the reason for OBD II and it often actually does work.

Always better (and cheaper!) to do diagnosis rather than simply replace parts.

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

Stop spending money on parts we dont know what the problem is! Thats a waste. Grab a obd2 scanner and read the code its telling you and then go from there. It might be ignition it might be something else but thats why they put cel lights on to help you.

Start with checking WHY and WHAT cel code (s) it is and go from that and no guessing

 

[muselmann]

Stop spending money on parts we dont know what the problem is! Thats a waste. Grab a obd2 scanner and read the code its telling you and then go from there. It might be ignition it might be something else but thats why they put cel lights on to help you.

Start with checking WHY and WHAT cel code (s) it is and go from that and no guessing

I totally get your point really. I tried 3 OBD2 scanners and none of them worked properly.
I/We had to work around the problem and finally found what the fault was: Camshaft sensor.
So I‘m gonna replace that one and see if it works. That‘s what the fault said.

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

I totally get your point really. I tried 3 OBD2 scanners and none of them worked properly.
I/We had to work around the problem and finally found what the fault was: Camshaft sensor.
So I‘m gonna replace that one and see if it works. That‘s what the fault said.

Some of the cheaper ones might not do well. But a semi decent one should always work good for you.

Now you got the code its easy and cheaper to replace that one part then guess and spend money and get annoyed the car does not work . Much easier this route is!!

Thank godness for OBD2 readers right!