I received my "Blemished" IC kit today and I am very impressed. I was told the IC had a scratch on the back side and I am still looking for cause I cannot find it. Just a few (3-4) bent fins that aren't really that bad, nor would I really consider a "bend". Also the pipe scratches are minimal and most will probably be coverd by the rubber connectors. Very nice looking pipes and better than I expected.
The package was shipped promptly after I shipped and was packaged exceptioanlly. Each pipe was wrapped in foam padding with the IC boxed sperately. Then a garbage bag full of foam peanuts filled the shipping box. Here are some picks of it.
Install will be in 3-4 weeks after vacations and work slows down as well as my housing move.
Parts List:
1 Intercooler -- 33"(l) x 7"(h) x 3"(w) from end to end with 2.25" i.d. and 2.50" o.d. connector
6 Silicone Couplers -- 2.5" i.d. and 2.75" o.d.
12 T-bolt clamps of 2.75" i.d.
5 IC pipes of 2.5" i.d. and J-pipe turbo connector of 1.5" opening to 2.5"
1 Instruction Manual
2 Bolts and Nuts for mounting the intercooler to the crash bar.
Edit:
The install was relatively painless. Purchase a deep 11mm socket for the T-bolts. The hardest part of the install for me was removing the front bumper and cutting it to fit. Actual installation of the intercooler and piping was ~2 hours of work. And the provided documentation was complete in detail for the install. The kit included everything necessary to install the intercooler, besides the actual tools. Here are some photos of it installed in my car with the bumper on.
I unbolted the center front support and tucked my Power Steering cooler behind it and in front of the AC radiator. In the process of removing several of the rusty body bolts, they snapped. I took quite a few hours to drill them out and re-thread them. The bolt size is 6mmx1.00x16-17mm, I would recommend going with Stainless Steel if you are going to replace them, don't forget the lock washer and washer or get flanged bolts (preffered). You will need roughly 12 bolts to replace them all with Stainless Steel. Obviously, this is unrelated to the actual kit, but it may be helpful to have a few of these laying around during the install. I would also recommend drill bits of varying sizes to a little less than 6mm, 6mmx1.00 tap, a pair of needle nose vice grips, and plenty of PB blaster as a contingency incase you snap a few of the rusty sheet metal screws Mitsu used in the body and need to remove them.
One final note on the kit. While my kit for a 16G does not include a boost source for running an MBC just after the compressor, according to ETS they will happily work with the customer to add one prior to shipment. I would recommend this option. Alternatively, you can can purchase a 1/8-28 pipe fitting with a nipple and weld a bung to the j-pipe. 1/8-28 nipple is the same size nipple as found on the T25. If you have a spare T25, you can scavange one from there.
Driver Side Looking towards the front of the car from underneath:
Under the Oil Filter:
Passanger Side Looking towards the front of the car from underneath:
J-Pipe mating with a 16G:
Installed in the car, note fog lamps remain with plenty of clearance for them.
Edit:
After a year of usage the FMIC as performed great. Even after 5 back to back runs on a dyno it remained relatively cool. The only Issue I have had with it was that the J-Pipe was rubbing against the AC ran metal shroud periodcally. This took a while to discover due to the clearance being enough so the rub wasn't consistent, but it could happen under load as the engine "moved" in the engine bay. It was a simple solution to grind a small bit of the AC fan shroud to give it clearance.
The package was shipped promptly after I shipped and was packaged exceptioanlly. Each pipe was wrapped in foam padding with the IC boxed sperately. Then a garbage bag full of foam peanuts filled the shipping box. Here are some picks of it.
Install will be in 3-4 weeks after vacations and work slows down as well as my housing move.
Parts List:
1 Intercooler -- 33"(l) x 7"(h) x 3"(w) from end to end with 2.25" i.d. and 2.50" o.d. connector
6 Silicone Couplers -- 2.5" i.d. and 2.75" o.d.
12 T-bolt clamps of 2.75" i.d.
5 IC pipes of 2.5" i.d. and J-pipe turbo connector of 1.5" opening to 2.5"
1 Instruction Manual
2 Bolts and Nuts for mounting the intercooler to the crash bar.
Edit:
The install was relatively painless. Purchase a deep 11mm socket for the T-bolts. The hardest part of the install for me was removing the front bumper and cutting it to fit. Actual installation of the intercooler and piping was ~2 hours of work. And the provided documentation was complete in detail for the install. The kit included everything necessary to install the intercooler, besides the actual tools. Here are some photos of it installed in my car with the bumper on.
I unbolted the center front support and tucked my Power Steering cooler behind it and in front of the AC radiator. In the process of removing several of the rusty body bolts, they snapped. I took quite a few hours to drill them out and re-thread them. The bolt size is 6mmx1.00x16-17mm, I would recommend going with Stainless Steel if you are going to replace them, don't forget the lock washer and washer or get flanged bolts (preffered). You will need roughly 12 bolts to replace them all with Stainless Steel. Obviously, this is unrelated to the actual kit, but it may be helpful to have a few of these laying around during the install. I would also recommend drill bits of varying sizes to a little less than 6mm, 6mmx1.00 tap, a pair of needle nose vice grips, and plenty of PB blaster as a contingency incase you snap a few of the rusty sheet metal screws Mitsu used in the body and need to remove them.
One final note on the kit. While my kit for a 16G does not include a boost source for running an MBC just after the compressor, according to ETS they will happily work with the customer to add one prior to shipment. I would recommend this option. Alternatively, you can can purchase a 1/8-28 pipe fitting with a nipple and weld a bung to the j-pipe. 1/8-28 nipple is the same size nipple as found on the T25. If you have a spare T25, you can scavange one from there.
Driver Side Looking towards the front of the car from underneath:
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Under the Oil Filter:
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Passanger Side Looking towards the front of the car from underneath:
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J-Pipe mating with a 16G:
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Installed in the car, note fog lamps remain with plenty of clearance for them.
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Edit:
After a year of usage the FMIC as performed great. Even after 5 back to back runs on a dyno it remained relatively cool. The only Issue I have had with it was that the J-Pipe was rubbing against the AC ran metal shroud periodcally. This took a while to discover due to the clearance being enough so the rub wasn't consistent, but it could happen under load as the engine "moved" in the engine bay. It was a simple solution to grind a small bit of the AC fan shroud to give it clearance.
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