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2G Engine won't start p0335

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caseyty13

10+ Year Contributor
32
1
May 24, 2010
olympia, Washington
So I rebuilt my engine. It's a long story for that. Go to start it and it won't start. Cranks but won't fire. It threw a p0335 code for the crankshaft sensor. So I replaced the sensor. And tried to start it and it won't start and threw the same code. Checked the wiring and there is no sign of damage at all. The thing is my battery light is on and so I think the alternator is bad. Could that be causing the sensor to trip and not work right. Or what else can be causing it
 
Check the ecu for anything burnt or bad smell. Also is your battery chargered enough to even start the car? Did you clear the code before trying with the new sensor? Is your timing on? Cas on the right way and not 180 out?
 
Check the ecu for anything burnt or bad smell. Also is your battery chargered enough to even start the car? Did you clear the code before trying with the new sensor? Is your timing on? Cas on the right way and not 180 out?
Timing is right. Used the battery out of my other car which is new and has about the same cranking amps. Cleared the code and tried the cas both ways. Haven't checked the ecu. The car sat for 5 years before I rebuilt it. I put a cas sensor in too.
 
I would think ecu or wiring to cps. All grounds are good and not rusted/corroded. You made sure the trigger plate for the cps is correct? How old is the gas In it?
I couldn't visually see anything wrong on the wiring. The plate is correct. And I drained the gas tank and put all new gas in it. The fuel rail is getting fuel too so I know that isn't an issue.
 
if the crank sensor isn't working you shouldn't be getting any fuel other than the 2 seconds the pump primes when you turn the key on. look at all fuses, check all grounds, look at the ecu and test the mfi relay. mfi relay has a fuel pump relay and the other one is like an ASD relay in a non turbo. it supplies the power to main sensor.
 
You didn't happen to forget to install the trigger plate did you?

P0335 sets when the engine is cranking and the ECU sees an abnormal pattern between the crank and cam sensor.
No the plate is installed. I triple checked before installing all of the timing pulleys. I haven't checked the ecu. And I'll test to make sure I'm getting power to the sensor.
 
Triple check the alternator and the voltage regulator inside it. All these symptoms are very close to an electrical problem I had before. It will force all the dash lights to turn on even though there is no problem. (battery light, srs, abs, brake, speedometer, erratic turn signal and even the check engine light!). My car would also want to stall out, be very weak and hard to start again. Back probe the sensor to see if it is receiving a signal from the ecu as well.
 
Triple check the alternator and the voltage regulator inside it. All these symptoms are very close to an electrical problem I had before. It will force all the dash lights to turn on even though there is no problem. (battery light, srs, abs, brake, speedometer, erratic turn signal and even the check engine light!). My car would also want to stall out, be very weak and hard to start again. Back probe the sensor to see if it is receiving a signal from the ecu as well.
I was thinking the alternator too because my battery light, and oil light are on. And I put in a new oil pressure sending unit too and my oil isn't low and I primed my oil system so it has to be electrical
 
Any other lights turn on with them, or become dim? Get a bright flashlight and look through the holes of its shell. If you see black burn marks or "ashy" looking wiring, alternator took a dump. If it also has like a faint yet burned rubber smell to it, its definitely the alternator.
 
Any other lights turn on with them, or become dim? Get a bright flashlight and look through the holes of its shell. If you see black burn marks or "ashy" looking wiring, alternator took a dump. If it also has like a faint yet burned rubber smell to it, its definitely the alternator.
Ill have to look again. But the alternator hasn't even been used for a couple years because the car was broke down. But I rebuilt the engine so I'm thinking the alternator is toast. Gonna pull it out and have it tested
 
Any other lights turn on with them, or become dim? Get a bright flashlight and look through the holes of its shell. If you see black burn marks or "ashy" looking wiring, alternator took a dump. If it also has like a faint yet burned rubber smell to it, its definitely the alternator.
Took the alternator in to get checked and it's fine. Next is to pull the ecu. Man it's a pain to get to
 
Ecu? It's super easy bro. Just pull off the kick panel on your center councel both drivers and passengers. There's 2 screws on each on. Then there's 2-4 10mm bolts to unbolt the ecu. Then unplug and slide right out. Make sure to disconnect the battery first. :)
http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/how-to-remove-ecu.195565/
 
if the crank sensor isn't working you shouldn't be getting any fuel other than the 2 seconds the pump primes when you turn the key on. look at all fuses, check all grounds, look at the ecu and test the mfi relay. mfi relay has a fuel pump relay and the other one is like an ASD relay in a non turbo. it supplies the power to main sensor.
Mfi relay should be fine since I'm getting fuel to the fuel rail. Just going to have to check the wiring
 
p0335 can result from a number of faulty components, including the starter (or starting circuit). I got p0335 a few times when I first acquired my 2g, which had a funky starter, esp when the battery was low. Never saw it again after replacing the starter. Starters are hard to diagnose if it's something intermittent, but if your car doesn't start at all that could be the problem. You could just have a bad ground in there somewhere.
 
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