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Engine Stand Bolts [Merged 8-21-20] bolt mounts mounting attaching

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rivet0r

20+ Year Contributor
490
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Sep 22, 2002
I picked up a 6bolt for my 95 tsi (walked), and also an engine stand. I was wondering what the best place would be to bolt up to on the block? Also, what bolts should I use and where can I get some? I don't have any spare bolts or anything I can use, so I need to buy some either way.

Any help would be great,
rivet0r
 
My stand is by no means ruined :)

I was able to remove and replace the rear main just fine... I personally thought the 4 inches of total clearance was excessive..

I've owned a few stands and these were really long...
 
does any one know the exact size of the threads on the bolt ? i cant get to get a bolt out for a few more days and need this thing on the stand soon thanks guys

Opus69 i also had to cut my last stand down just like you did but i ened up selling the engine to slowboyracing and just gave the guy who picked it up the stand for free and also agree that you didnt ruin your stand the new stand they are 1 1/2 inches long to the block will i need to get longer bolts then 3 inchs ?not thinking so but to make shure


also i think the grade of the bolts does matter im not going to to trust my engine to be secure on the stand till i know what grade would be best. i think grade 8 if i rember right the ones ones stock on the bell housing ar grade 7or 8 any one back up this info ?
 
The bolts thread pitch are M10 X 1.25, and I used 100mm long bolts I bought from Lowes.

You can see what top holes to use in this pic, but use the 2 outermost holes on the bottom that holds the tranny on.
 

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I am about to pull my motor and rebuild it, but where and what bolts do i use to attach the block to the motor stand
 
If I recall correctly they are 70mm long. I tried the 75mm long ones and they were too long, so I just put some washers on them. Would of taken pictures but my cam is out of batteries.
 
I usually remove those dowel pins for the transmission. They do come out with a little finess. Just wiggle them back and forth. Then u can mount right up
 
Most engine stands have mounts big enough for dowel pins to simply go inside. If, however, on your stand those pins won't go through the mount, then you need to remove them.

A good way to do it, is to get a socket that fits inside just perfect, then grab it with vise-grips and twist back and fourth while pulling it out. The reason you need to put a socket inside, is so that you don't flatten it when you crimp it with vise-grips. Of course, in some instances they come out so easy, that none of that is needed.

And another suggestion, is to remove rear main seal housing before you mount the engine, as it will be a pain once the block is on the stand.
 
I cannot find ANY bolts in my town at all for my engine block that are long enough to go through my engine stand:mad:. I am posting to make sure I am not looking for the wrong thread and bolt size. I should be looking for a metric size 10 bolt with a pitch of 1.25 correct? And if that is correct, I believe I am going to have to make bolts for them unless someone knows a way to get around that without messing up the block:notgood:. Any help would be GREATLY apprieciated. Tools and lifts I borrowed need to be returned :p. TIA!!!!
 
Thank you all for responding! Only one problem... My engine stand requires me to have like 4 5" bolts. and no one in town seems to have any. I have checked with everyone in town... or just about. I can't even find any threaded rod with the right size and pitch. I am really stuck on a stump and my car will never get running a this rate and my family needs a second car right now... :( 3 people running a single car is horrible! I will check to see if I have the 4 turbo bolts. But i don't think the car has them... the head was seized and i think someone ransacked it for parts LOL.
 
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