engine shut off while driving

[pwnzer]

So randomly my car shut off while driving. I had made it maybe a half a mile from my house, to the end of my subdivision where it meets the road. Stopped at the stop sign and then my car shut off. The battery is fine and when I started it up before I left it started easily. Then it wouldn't start. Eventually after like the tenth try it started but very very rough and the idle was extremely low. I let it run for a bit, turned it back off and started it up again. Everything was fine, it started very easily, idled normally and everything seemed to be operating fine. This was all a span of maybe 10 minutes. It was about 6 degrees when that happened, and the car still hadnt fully warmed up, but I let it sit for 5 minutes before I left. I have no idea how this happened. The plugs and wires are all new, done at 67xxx or so. I have 73xxx on there now, and just did an oil change maybe two hundred miles ago. No oil leaks and the plug and filter seem fine. I have not experienced any other troubles. Is this a sign of my fuel pump dying? What else could be the problem?

 

[DSM-Hottie]

My GSX will almost shut off, mine also did the rough idle the other day after a long drive I shut her off and when I went to leave again she started rough.

 

[pwnzer]

any ideas? anyone?

 

[Rob10_99]

Are you sure the terminals are tight? Check resistance from negative on the battery to the engine/chassis.

 

[gudz519]

check the battery again and it sound alot like a vacuum leak

 

[Rob10_99]

When you say it dies, or wouldn't start... does that mean there was no power or that you were cranking it and not firing?

 

[DSMDriver69]

are your battery terminals clean?

 

[pwnzer]

battery terminals are fine and the battery is fine. Ill check for a vacuum leak, I was having issues with idle before and I ended up replacing my PCV valve. It isnt a recurring problem, it was just that one time and I wanted to figure it out before anything happened. And it would start but the idle was so low it would just rumble and stall. It didnt give a dead battery sound either.

 

[92AWDHX40]

How about the timing check for spark, compression, fuel. Start there.

 

[Diamondrev]

clogged fuel filter?

 

[Fotowntalon]

fuel pump relay... asd?, fuel pump going bad? just a couple ideas off the top my head. Any codes that came on or feel any more loss of power?

 

[VelocitàPaola]

The three potential culprits that come to mind immediately are coolant temperature sensor, oxygen sensor and ECU (in order of increasing cost to replace). I would start by looking for stored error codes, then begin checking the sensors I listed.

 

[Diamondrev]

fuel pump relay... asd?, fuel pump going bad? just a couple ideas off the top my head. Any codes that came on or feel any more loss of power?

a clogged fuel filter would cause the fuel pump to go bad faster. It would make the pump work harder which will make it wear faster

 

[Griffeclipsed98]

check your ignition wires going to the coil pack , the wire sometimes can get cooked for your egr pipe and as well as your cam pos.

 

[pwnzer]

The three potential culprits that come to mind immediately are coolant temperature sensor, oxygen sensor and ECU (in order of increasing cost to replace). I would start by looking for stored error codes, then begin checking the sensors I listed.

I'm not throwing any codes at all... which is not helpful. I will check those sensors. I just had a thought though. Is there any chance it could just have been condensation in my gas line? Especially since I have not noticed anything else and everything seems to be functioning normally after 4 days of driving.

 

[Diamondrev]

I would throw in some seafoam in the gas tank the next time you fill up..

 

[pwnzer]

I was gonna try something like that yeah. I still wanna check my sensors and fuel pump, but with no other problems and just a single stall I feel like its not somthing that serious.

 

[evood69]

I was having the exact same problems with my car. Except it would shut off while coming to a stop like 15mph or below. I ended up taking it to my mechanic and it didnt throw any codes to him. We ended up cleaning the throttle body pleats, and it has been running fine for the past 2 weeks. Not sure if that could be whats happening to you, but figured I would throw it out there.

 

[Spoolin4Ever]

ECU causes this.

 

[pwnzer]

How exactly do you do a vacuum leak test?

 

[LiquidX]

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/new...se-troubleshoot-boost-leak-tester-merged.html

What you'll need is

1. Boost leak tester (homemade or purchaced)
2. Pressure source that can go to at least 25 psi
3. Spray bottle filled with soap and water


Attach the boost leak tester starting at the throttle body elbow and begin to pressureize. Spray the water mixture all over the vacuum lines, throttle body + gaskets, intake manifold connections and the injectors. If you see bubbles, you have a leak and take the steps to fix it. If you have air coming out of your oil cap, then you have a bad PVC valve as well.

Once all leaks in that area are fixed, move it to either before the BOV or before the IC and repeat the above steps. Then finally move it to the turbo inlet and pressureize the whole system.

Make sure the intercooler is not cracked and that all couplers are on tight and not leaking. Ziptie all vacuum line connections and also bypass the MBC if you have one.

You should be able to hold at least 20 psi for 30 seconds if not longer. A good sealing motor can hold those numbers for a couple minutes. That's the basic run down of how to do a boost leak test.

Ok, I'm a bit retarded there for a minute as I just realized you are N/T. You could go and do the same process if you wish for a N/T as well but you won't have the turbo and IC to deal with. A properly sealed motor is a good motor. I wouldn't pressureize more than 5 psi however if you do go that route.

 

[6boltpower]

this helped me thanks!

 

[pwnzer]

thanks, I'm having stalling and idle problems and I first thought it was frozen water in my gas line, but that wasn't it so I figure the next most likely culprit is a vacuum leak. I am not throwing any codes.

I tested directly to the intake manifold. It held a steady 15. I couldn't fit the hose I had around the connector that is further down this hose, but I noticed some cracking on this connector. Its hard to see I know. Could that possibly be it? It doesn't seem like it would cause a large enough issue to have me stall out. I also noticed I'm getting a lot of noise from my lifters. Is that normal? I have 74xxx miles on the car.

 

[pwnzer]

If a moderator could merge this with my other post entitled vacuum leak test that would be great. I didnt mean to create a new post.

 

[VelocitàPaola]

If a moderator could merge this with my other post entitled vacuum leak test that would be great. I didnt mean to create a new post.

PM me with the URL of your other thread. I don't see anything with that title.