Car Stalls while Driving, HELP!!

[kapkaniMD]

Hey guys,
I have done searches already and have not found any solution so here I am. First off I have a 1995 Dodge Avenger with the 2.0 I4 420A engine. It is a 5-speed and has 130k mi on it. Anyways I just bought the car and now when I first turn it on the RPMs will go up like normal and then just bottom out and the car stalls. ok so I give it a little gas and its fine and I am on my way, now when I am driving and let off the gas to hit the brakes, the RPMs jump down and the car shuts off in the middle of the road. It starts right back up and is fine again untill the next time I have to hit the brakes, and now when I sit at idle the RPMs will start acting crazy going up and down and eventually stalling at idle. Can someone please help me with a quick solution, I am a medical student and dont have any free time time be trying to guess what is wrong with this thing thanks ahead of time

 

[grnchevyz]

Almost sounds like a Throttle Position Sensor issue to me. Do you have a code thrown? (Check Engine Light)

 

[kapkaniMD]

it has a couple of codes but the only way i have checked them is through the factor CEL flasher thing, it is giving me codes 11, 12, 21, & 23 as far as I can tell, it seems to give me some of the numbers 2x i dont know what that means, oh and i found some similar threads that have claimed an ECU problem and another that said a simple throttle body cleaning solved the probem

 

[DSMcrazy3]

Those ECU's are notorious for failing. First of all, make sure the ECU in your car is for your car indeed. I had a neon ECU in mine for a month or two and had a few codes due to that, and on the keydance it would flash the same code more than once.

 

[kapkaniMD]

Ive really only noticed the problem when my a/c is on, if it is off then it doesnt stall and the rpms dont fluctuate, the only hose that is diconnected/busted is the one from the air box to the valve cover, is that really a problem?

 

[wannaspoolRS]

Ive really only noticed the problem when my a/c is on, if it is off then it doesnt stall and the rpms dont fluctuate, the only hose that is diconnected/busted is the one from the air box to the valve cover, is that really a problem?

no thats just an oil overflow...sounds like that ac is putting some HARD stress on that engine...i dk what it could be...vacuum line?

 

[VelocitàPaola]

Oil overflow? That's an inlet for the PCV system. You should at least put a breather valve on that inlet, or repair the broken hose.

That shouldn't be causing your problems though.

 

[kapkaniMD]

its not an oil overflow it is just the tube to bring air into the valve cover, i believe just for cooling purposes and its not the hose that the PCV valve is connected to. I am thinking maybe if I just increase my idle it should help to keep the RPMs from getting so low cause I am driving to compensate for the low rpms during braking by keeping my right foot on the gas and braking with my left, but I really need to get this problem fixed and quick

 

[VelocitàPaola]

I know it's not connected to the PCV valve, but it is still apart of the PCV system. Like you said, it brings air into the crankcase to keep it under relatively low vacuum. Air is sucked out of the crankcase via the PCV hose connected to the intake manifold.

How do you plan on adjusting the idle? Our cars don't have a BISS screw like the 4G63s.

 

[DSMcrazy3]

:cough: :cough: ECU :cough: :cough:

 

[kapkaniMD]

there is a torx screw on my throttle i dont know what size it is but I will give it a try when I get a chance, now I am noticing its not only when a/c is on, i turn the a/c to park cause its harder to use both feet and it seems like the rpms arent stabalizing at all as soon as I let off the gas rpms go straight to 0

 

[grnchevyz]

Did you check/replace the TPS yet? Check it out...

 

[kapkaniMD]

i havent replaced anything yet I am trying to be sure before I start buying things, part availability where I am at is not that good and I am sure is pricey so I would like to have at least an 80% chance that what I am replacing is the problem

 

[VelocitàPaola]

You can usually find a perfectly decent TPS on 2GNT for around $25. And if it's the ECU, I can get a re-manufactured unit from the dealer for $250. Where is Valrico?

 

[vegasbounddsm]

i had the same problem with my car to ,but its because i use a aftermarket intake manifold it your vaccum , what you need to do is get like check valve the goes to the intake then to your brake booster i got one of a old supra at a pick a part and it should fix the problem and when you put the check valve their in and out for air flow you can blow in to it and you will see what i mean ,the side of the check valve that cant blow in to is the intake side and if you can blow threw goes to the brake booster

 

[kapkaniMD]

i had the same problem with my car to ,but its because i use a aftermarket intake manifold it your vaccum , what you need to do is get like check valve the goes to the intake then to your brake booster i got one of a old supra at a pick a part and it should fix the problem and when you put the check valve their in and out for air flow you can blow in to it and you will see what i mean ,the side of the check valve that cant blow in to is the intake side and if you can blow threw goes to the brake booster

Ok you're going to have to explain that a little better that or post some pictures, i cant just go scavaging around junk yards hoping to find a valve somewhere, i would hope an autoparts store would have one, also your going to have to be more specific on how this is going to solve my problem, why would it need one of these when the car worked fine a couple of weeks ago

 

[4UH8ERS]

:cough: :cough: ECU :cough: :cough:

I'm starting to think you get profit off each ECU thats sold.

 

[VelocitàPaola]

Can you please upload the pictures to the DSMTuners server? It's unfair to spread information pertaining the thread outside of the forums. If someone were to come across this thread via a search in the future, they wouldn't know how to resolve their problem.

 

[kapkaniMD]

i still have received no information, i gave my email, but no pictures i still have not found a cure for my problem i wont be able to start trying things till next week i have exams on monday and tuesday

 

[kapkaniMD]

Ok now the car is acting even stranger. Today I turned it on and immediately it stalled, It wouldnt start up again, I waited 4 minutes and it finally started. Now all day I was driving and the check engine light was off. It just now came back on, but now the car is doing the opposite of what it was doing before. Now the throttle is sticking, everytime I hit the gas the RPMs go up but they dont come down..?...?.. I have throttlebody cleaner I will clean it good on Saturday but I am not understanding what this car is doing.. If anyone has any ideas I am still open to suggestions

 

[erica]

I just came across this thread, and I know it's kind of old, but figured I would offer some help anyway.
I had this problem in my 1g a few weeks ago, and after doing some research on VFaq, I found out it was the ISC unit. The ISC (Idle Speed Control unit) basically controls what speed the engine idles at, and when it's not working, the engine idles very strangely. Especially with the A/C on.
Here's a good link: http://dmtalon.v8eaters.com/ISC.html

All I did was go to the junkyard and got a new ISC (it's located on the throttle body) for about $3. Once I installed it, the problem was fixed Good luck!

 

[VelocitàPaola]

I just came across this thread, and I know it's kind of old, but figured I would offer some help anyway.
I had this problem in my 1g a few weeks ago, and after doing some research on VFaq, I found out it was the ISC unit. The ISC (Idle Speed Control unit) basically controls what speed the engine idles at, and when it's not working, the engine idles very strangely. Especially with the A/C on.
Here's a good link: http://dmtalon.v8eaters.com/ISC.html

All I did was go to the junkyard and got a new ISC (it's located on the throttle body) for about $3. Once I installed it, the problem was fixed Good luck!

Eh... not quite. Our IACs are different than the 1G ISCs.

If you look at the connector on the IAC, there are four pins. The outer pins (we'll call them pins 1 & 4) are connected to one coil, and the inner pins (pins 2 & 3) are connected to the other coil. The resistance between pins 1 & 4, and between pins 2 & 3 should be about 50-52 ohms.

 

[DSMcrazy3]

To the original poster... Have you thought about your ECU yet?

It's possible that someone once had the same symptoms you're describing, and that very someone could be posting in this thread...*Although, it could be a number of other things*

 

[kapkaniMD]

Update: ended up changing out my ECU due to other problems and the car is running great now