1G Engine rebuild

[phillips8398]

Hey this is my first post... please be patient

I have a completely stock 1g dsm (talon tsi) I have always loved these cars and finally i came across one within my budget. I bought the car for 1500 it ran fine for three days and now i have a loud knocking coming from the engine when giving it gas. I want to do an engine rebuild so i can follow the modification paths i found on this site. So my question is where do i find a good rebuild kit and if there any pointers tips or tricks.

I appreciate any and all help. It is my intention to build this car to the best of my budget and abilities.

 

[Absit]

You don't really use a kit, you pick out the parts you want and you piece your "kit" together. There are kits available, it's just not a path I'd ever take. If you've got a rod knocking you're likely going to want a new crank and rods, regardless of what "kit" you go with.

 

[DSM1G90]

It really sounds like a tune-up is in store right now if you're getting the knocking when you apply the gas to it.

Sounds like it went way too advanced, unless oil pressure dropped and took out a rod.

Since it's a '92, look at the sticker in the driver's door "C" pillar and check the month and year made, for if it's before April of 1992, it prob still has the 6 bolt motor in it. Otherwise, it may contain the 7 bolt motor.

Good luck - DSM

 

[9!'clipseDOHC]

Check out these supporting venders for the parts you are looking for:

: JNZ Tuning
DSM - Mitsubishi - Modern Automotive Performance
EXTREME PSI : Your #1 Source for In Stock Performance Parts

Bearings, pistons, rods, gasket kit, timing components, oil and water pumps, and whatever else you may need.

 

[g4ebguy90]

I have went through DSM graveyard for my current build. Depending on how my next shipment goes I will as of now give them a 7.5/10. But I have got 2 shipments out of 3. Everything came in that was supposed to and in good condition, it even appears to have been inspected before sending it out to me.
Im not trying to make this a review, but he did ask who to go through for parts. There prices are pretty decent and if you have a question they can usually answer it no problem. For my 2nd build...... in the future I will probaly order through them, but I may go through a different company for some other stuff.

But for a 6-7 bolt they got everything you need on the website for a rebuild. I found it best to call and order.

 

[phillips8398]

First off thx to everyone has a lent there knowledge...

the car had a aftermarket oil pressure gauge at one point in time but was takin out. the line was just clipped and oil was leaking into the car. I noticed this the same day i noticed the knock.. i have crimped the line since then but it has not run correctly since... Either way i feel like i need to rebuild the engine so i have a good and proper foundation for building the engine

a few questions i have are:
is it possible to do a rebuild with out removing the engine
are there any brand specific recomendations
what are common problems with a person doing a rebuild for the first time

i feel comfortable with with my understanding and operation of these engines.. i feel like this is something i can do with patients, research, and a little guidance. so like i said before i really appreciate all of the advice i have recieved and hope to learn even more from more posts!

 

[9!'clipseDOHC]

As far as rebuilding the engine with it still in the car, I would say that it is not recommended. Personally, I would pull the whole thing and take the block to a machine shop (preferably one that is familiar with 4G63's) and have them check the hone, pistons, clearances, etc. If you are replacing the pistons they will need to be matched to the cylinders for best results.

What is your goal for this car? How much power are you planning on making? What are you going to be using it for? What is your budget? These are all important things to consider before you begin and will effect the direction of your rebuild.

 

[phillips8398]

Alright cool i figured removing the engine was a must but i don't have the equipment to pull the engine out but i am sure i will figure it out... There is a shop in Portland called "English racing" that specializes in dsm. I will have them do the machine work.

The money involved is the biggest issue... Over the summer i will make about $3000 to put towards the car and then from there it will be one project at a time

I am hoping to at least complete the stage one path outlined on this site by the end of summer.. the car will still have to be my daily driver

I already have a new water pump and timing belt.. i want to order a full gasket set, new pistons, oil pump, acc belt, rods, crank, and cams

thx again for all of the help it has been very useful and prevented unnecessary spending

 

[9!'clipseDOHC]

Alright cool i figured removing the engine was a must but i don't have the equipment to pull the engine out but i am sure i will figure it out... There is a shop in Portland called "English racing" that specializes in dsm. I will have them do the machine work.

The money involved is the biggest issue... Over the summer i will make about $3000 to put towards the car and then from there it will be one project at a time

I am hoping to at least complete the stage one path outlined on this site by the end of summer.. the car will still have to be my daily driver

I already have a new water pump and timing belt.. i want to order a full gasket set, new pistons, oil pump, acc belt, rods, crank, and cams

thx again for all of the help it has been very useful and prevented unnecessary spending

The English Racing? (I thought they were in Washington) If so they are a very well known DSM shop with a great reputation and they will take care of it for you, I have no doubt. Take the block to them before you order all your parts and they will be able to let you know what you need to have done. The crankshaft is usually reusable and solid unless you spun your bearings and gunked up the journals.

Also in conjunction with the timing belt and water pump you should also replace the hydraulic tensioner, idler pulley, and tensioner pulley, and I would also recommend eliminating the balance shafts.

Sounds like you are on the right path! Keep it up and you will have a very solid platform to build on.

 

[phillips8398]

Perfect... i have a game plan now.

so from the knowledge Ive gotten from everyone here and the information i have studied from the site i am ready to start tearing into my car. i am really excited to have a fun and fast car... i am going to take some pics of the car as it is right now and post as i get further into the build..

i am sure i will have more questions and run into a few problems but i am convinced that with the help of English racing and everyone from DSMtuners i will have one of the nicest DSM's in my area

THX AGAIN!!!

Oh and i thought "English Racing" was in Portland but either way i am close and that's where i will be going

 

[Gs Dewd]

First you need to pull the engine and rip it apart (label and take pics so you remember where everything goes). Get a chilton or other book for the car. See whats bad and what can be reused. You maybe be able to get buy with a new crank and bearing and reuse the rods. You maybe able to just have the crank polished and be good. You won't know until it is apart and you can check everything real good. Extreme psi has the complete gasket kit for 120. They probably sell the bearings also. You can't do a complete rebuild with the engine in the car. Also DO NOT RUN THE ENGINE as you will just do more damage and cost you more money. In my Gst I had a balance shaft bearing go out on a engine the was only suppose to have 30k miles on it. It took out the crank so I had to do a complete rebuild but kept the rods and replaced the crank with a new one and new bearings.

 

[smorton]

I would highly suggest Rockauto.com if you are not looking for a 'super' performance build. They have nearly EVERYTHING OEM, I got my whole bottom end through them with super great service.

 

[phillips8398]

Alright so i took my car down to "English Racing" and they told me what that knocking noise was... turns out i have a bad hydraulic tensioner... should be an easy fix!!!

Other than that the car seems to be running fine. So i am going to replace the tensioner and then i will be starting the basic HP upgrade path stage one!!

Thx again for all of the advice

 

[9!'clipseDOHC]

I would do a whole timing belt job rather then just replacing the tensioner. It's a little pricey but nothing compared to a wrecked head. Plus then you will be able to relax and not have to worry about it for 70,000 miles. I would get the timing belt, hydraulic tensioner, tensioner pulley, idler pulley, water pump, and either balance shaft belt and tensioner or preferably a balance shaft elimination kit.

 

[Rengar18]

I would compression test the motor to make sure its good. You can rent a tester if you dont have one from Harbor fright or your local Auto parts store (just make sure the tester is accurate). The test doesnt take longer than 30 mins. I would hate for you to start buying parts and find out later your blowing 110 compression across the board.

 

[phillips8398]

Yea i had the guys at English racing do a compression test and it all came back good!!

As for replacing the other parts along with the tensioner that sounds like a good idea to me.. i already have a new water pump and timing belt... but if i replace the timing belt will i have to adjust the timing after?

as for the balance shaft eliminator kit im not sure exactly what that does other than the what i can derive from the name...

again i want to thank everyone for there help and concern for me and my car.

Oh and PS... the guys at English Racing are awesome and i had the opportunity to see some really bad ass dsm's

 

[9!'clipseDOHC]

Yea i had the guys at English racing do a compression test and it all came back good!!

As for replacing the other parts along with the tensioner that sounds like a good idea to me.. i already have a new water pump and timing belt... but if i replace the timing belt will i have to adjust the timing after?

as for the balance shaft eliminator kit im not sure exactly what that does other than the what i can derive from the name...

again i want to thank everyone for there help and concern for me and my car.

Oh and PS... the guys at English Racing are awesome and i had the opportunity to see some really bad ass dsm's

You are going to have to take the timing belt off to install the tensioner anyways. It would be a good idea to start brushing up on it now:
Timing Belt Checklist - Removal
Timing Belt Checklist - Install
Timing Belt VFAQ (Timing Belt TSB - ENHANCED)
Timing Belt Tools : Jay Racing

The Balance shafts are weighted shafs which spin in opposite directions at twice the engine speed in order to cancel out engine vibrations. The problems are they rob horsepower, are prone to spinning bearings (has happened to me personally), and if damaged and take you you timing belts and possibly even your block. The balance shaft elimination kit uses factory Mitsubishi parts to remove the balance shaft system. The only side effects are generally higher oil pressure and slightly more vibrations at a certain RPM. I would eliminate them while you have the timing bet off to avoid future problems down the road.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/270689-balance-shaft-elimination-kit.html
Balance Shaft Eliminator Kit Install