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Engine Noise / Ticking, Knocking, Tapping MERGED

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eric489

Probationary Member
7
0
Jul 14, 2004
Carson City, Nevada
All threads with vague titles regarding engine bay noises are now merged HERE.

If you honestly feel we can diagnose an internal engine problem from a poor description or low-quality video / audio sample, give it a shot.



I own a 1997 gst spyder and there is a ticking noise comming fron the engine. It comes and goes and it mostly sounds bad at idle. I have 97,000 miles on it and i change the oil regularly. I changed it about 2000 miles ago I need help to fix the problem.
 
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Just some suggestions, could be boost leak but not that likely since it doesnt happen in first but you could check it, check out your maf as well. pull your plugs and see what they look like sounds like missfire issue which could be a couple diff things but your plugs will tell you more

do you have a data logger?
 
You would be surprised what a new set of plugs will do for these cars... Try that first, maybe injector cleaner. How many miles on the car? I don't really see how 1st would be any different from the other gears, except that 1st gear in a gst is all spin. Do you boost in 1st gear?
 
Yes, I boost in 1st gear. The car currently has 149,000 miles on it.

I will change out the spark plugs today and see if their is any difference w/ the car. I hope that is the issue. Any other ideas what the issue could be?
 
I don't really see how 1st would be any different from the other gears, except that 1st gear in a gst is all spin.

First IS different than the other gears because there is the least amount of load on the engine because of the gearing to get the car moving. The way briang1084 describes it, it does sound like an ignition misfire from plugs and/or wires because as the load increases in the higher gears, so does the need for a good ignition system. If there are any problems with an ignition system they will first be noticed under a load situation most of the time. And like you say jb2zero0six5, in first gear where a fwd will spin there is even less load on the engine, so it would be less likely to exibit a misfire until getting into the higher gears where traction and load increase.;)
 
Update:

I went ahead and changed out the spark plugs and wires. However, the sound still comes from back, but minus that the car drives fine. From the sound of it, I think it may be the muffler or something in the exhaust system.

I am going to take it by a muffler shop tomorrow to see if that is indeed the issue. Thanks for the great advice everyone, I'll post an update when I hear from them.
 
One suggestion I have is to check all of the gaskets in your exhaust including the exhaust manifold. Let me know if that turns out to be an issue.
 
Well to start of i have 99gst bpu, i recently had my alt belt come off, i loosened up the alternator put it back on perfectly, tightened it locked it up.(have a new belt in the mail) Start my car and it starts but now their is this horrible sound that is coming somewhere between the belts and it comes and goes (im guessing every time the belt makes a full revolution) it makes this sound. Its sound as if i through a little rock in a fan for a few seconds then goes away/ over and over. I think i may have over tightened the belt?!? Secondly after letting the car idle and taking a vid of this the car leans out and goes under 500rpms and just studders to keep it going. This happens over and over everytime i start it. I have no leads to what this could be. The engine does not knock its clean. What could be happening? please give me some feedback guys, i greatly apprecaite it! THanks alot!
 
Have you checked within the area of the torque converter or flywheel? Might need to crank it and check the bolts? Do you have a 2g lockup converter? If not, might be a loose flexplate to torque converter bolt. However, it may be as simple as you may have possibly tightened the belt way too much. Try loosening it and running the car and see if it still makes the noise. Also, if you have an inspection cover, it might be bent and hitting the converter when running. :aha: These are all possible reasons to your noise. Hope I helped in at least something. Good Luck!
 
Have you checked within the area of the torque converter or flywheel? Might need to crank it and check the bolts? Do you have a 2g lockup converter? If not, might be a loose flexplate to torque converter bolt. However, it may be as simple as you may have possibly tightened the belt way too much. Try loosening it and running the car and see if it still makes the noise. Also, if you have an inspection cover, it might be bent and hitting the converter when running. :aha: These are all possible reasons to your noise. Hope I helped in at least something. Good Luck!

What does this problem have anything to do with the transmission?? WTF Sounds to me like maybe your water pump pully is loose. Ive never heard of the car idling lower because "the alternator belt is too tight." Try taking the belt off and starting the car. If it still makes this noise then you know it to do with something else. Also make sure that water pump pully is tight, theres 4 10mm bolts holding it on.
 
ok guys, i have a 95 gst thats all stock right now. the other day i was driving and all the sudden i hear TAP TAP TAP TAP, it does not do it at idle it starts making the noise at about 2 grand, if i hold the throttle steady inbetween 2 and 3 grand (while driving) it will tap like crazy, but if i suddenly hit the gas and accelerate the noise goes away. so pretty much it only does it while holding the gas steady inbetween those rpm's or when going threw them rpm's. also it does not do it when the engine is cold, the hotter it gets the louder it gets. it sounds like its coming from under the valve cover. i have removed all lifters, cleaned and bled them, and it didnt change a thing. idk what it could be, it does not sound like a rod it sounds more like a loud click/tap rather then a knock. and if it was a rod it would get louder with more throttle, as mine goes away when i give it more gas. :hmm:
 
Rod knock will not always get louder with more rpm.

Most rods make noise when there is the least load on the engine.
As in, holding the throttle steady at a steady rpm in neutral. Also if you quickly goose the throttle once the rpm reaches its peak it will knock then stop.

sent from my evo.
 
If agree with white92talontsi... Rod doesn't necessarily increase with RPM increase. Mine didn't anyways and I didn't think it was rod knock until it was too late.
 
If you think about it. When your under a load the rod is constantly being pushed down onto the crankshaft. When the piston is moving up it is still being pushed down onto the crank.

When the piston reaches tdc it will then lose the load on the bearing as the direction of travel now has the crank pulling on the rod.

This is mostly when the knock will occur when the piston reaches tdc and the load changes directions.

sent from my evo.
 
i really hope its not a rod, i drove for about 15-20 min today and it didnt make any noise at all ! but after i droped my buddy off at work it started doing it again. if it was a rod it wouldnt take 20 min of driving for it to start knocking again would it?, and also it reallyy sounds more like a clicking rather then a knock, it doesnt do it everytime i hold the throttle steady, only inbetween 2 and 3k. if i hold the throttle at 1,500k it wont do it at all. and if its ideling and i tap the gas reall quick it wont do it either unless it reaches said rpm's, you would think the sudden gas tap/sudden move in the crank it would cause it to knock (if it was a rod)... ill try to post a video but i have no idea how, anyone on here know?
 
yea i was also thinking it could be a wrist pin, and as far as the tensioner goes, it sounds like its coming from the passenger side of the valve cover. but its hard to tell where the noise is comin from with these motors.
 
yeah, befor i took the lifters out to clean them i pryed up on the rocker arms with a screw driver (to compress the valve springs) and none felt loose or weak. the only thing i can really think of is that it doesnt do it when its cold cause when i let it sit the lifter builds up pressure, then after running it, it slowly leaks oil and wont build pressure back up, so therefor causing the tapping. but idk

and also, what should the stock oil pressure read when warm at idle?. my needle points right at the top of the ''L'' is that normal?.
 
yeah, befor i took the lifters out to clean them i pryed up on the rocker arms with a screw driver (to compress the valve springs) and none felt loose or weak. the only thing i can really think of is that it doesnt do it when its cold cause when i let it sit the lifter builds up pressure, then after running it, it slowly leaks oil and wont build pressure back up, so therefor causing the tapping. but idk

and also, what should the stock oil pressure read when warm at idle?. my needle points right at the top of the ''L'' is that normal?.

The lifters wont bleed down while the car is running this happens when the engine is shut off then it will bleed down.
While its running if its bad it just wont pump up.
what I do is run the car to make sure the lifters are pumped up. Pull the lifters and any that you can depress with your fingers are collapsed.

As far as oil pressure on my 6 bolt at hot idle I sit about half an inch above the L mark.
 
so a half inch above the L mark would be about half way right?, so is mine to low?

ok so i had a buddy of mine that is a GREAT mechanic look at the car. i have never seen him be wrong about anything, and he said its deff not a rod. we used a tethiscope or whatever, and its coming from the passenger side exhaust corner of the valve cover, and its a very fast CLICKING sound that seems to be going the same speed as the cams, so the only thing we can think of is a dead lifter. but when i took them out to bleed them none off them looked bad. but i guess ill put some revised 3g lifters in asap and see if that helps.
 
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