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Engine Noise / Ticking, Knocking, Tapping MERGED

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eric489

Probationary Member
7
0
Jul 14, 2004
Carson City, Nevada
All threads with vague titles regarding engine bay noises are now merged HERE.

If you honestly feel we can diagnose an internal engine problem from a poor description or low-quality video / audio sample, give it a shot.



I own a 1997 gst spyder and there is a ticking noise comming fron the engine. It comes and goes and it mostly sounds bad at idle. I have 97,000 miles on it and i change the oil regularly. I changed it about 2000 miles ago I need help to fix the problem.
 
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I had the same issue with my 1G, and what you are describing is sounds similar... VERY SIMILAR. I'm not going to tell you what is wrong, just let you know my experience so it doesn't happen to you. I also heard a strange noise like you do, and at first I wasn't really sure. Then the noise got a little louder. Then got louder. This is over a weeks time. I had plans to build the car, but not at that time. Tried a couple things, and nothing changed. Well I decided to tear it apart, come to find out, the bearing around the balance shaft had been torn to shreads, and you can only guess what happened. The main bearings were distroyed, along with the rod bearings, the crank is trash, also there are scratches on the cylinder walls. The only suggestion I can offer, is get that oil pan off and see if there are any metal shavings what so ever in the oil, or bottom of the oil pan. I'll post pics soon for the results of the affects.
 
well, i was gonna record a vid tonight but i got there and my camera died.. soo tomorrow i will..

but i was originally planning on a bs removal but the front engine cover just didnt wanna come off, i didnt want to remove the oil pan because of it being AWD (requires moving the damn transfer case and exhaust) and it was RTV'd on, which meant it would HAVE to come completely off.. :|


You can't take the front pump cover off without removing the oil pan even not stuck with RTV. the oil pick-up is bolted to it and a main bearing. You have to remove pan sorry.

DJ
 
when the motor was built what was the piston to wall clearance? Piston slap has nothing to do with the valve(or anyything else) hitting the piston. Motors especially forged piston turbo motors are built with alot(when compared to a N/A motor) of clearance between the cylinder wall and the piston to allow for expansion when the piston heats up. If it was a piston slapping it would be worse when the motor is cold. I could write a page about piston slap and why it happens. but in my opinion doesn't sound like your problem. Defiant is correct free revving is not good for any motor especially a turbo motor.
 
ok if its not piston slap then what are my other options.. and i know free reving is badd, and when i say im free reving im not like reving it high at all just to like 2500 rpm.

i dont think its anything with the head or timing, so it would have to be something else, but i cant figure out what. i eliminated the BS so it cant be that.
 
It may be a simple exhaust leak. It could be pulsating at low rpms but as the exhaust builds pressure, with rpms, it changes to a constant tone that your ear can't hear over the engine.
 
I finally had some time and help to get to the bottom of the problem. I pulled the motor yesterday dropped the oil pan. I officially have a spun bearing in cylinder 2. The other bearings are also showing signs of excessive wear except cylinder 1. NO CRANKWALK...happening the thrust bearing are not worn at all. No crankshaft play....
So now we will measure to see if the rod has been egg shaped...if its ok I will have the crank machined and get new bearings put it back together put the motor back in. Does anyone have any advice to offer..Should I remove the balance shaft while I'm at it??
 
if your going to have the crank ground, make sure to have it re nitrite coated (i believe thats the right stuff) to keep it healthier. and if it is gone, get a stroker crank and do a budget stroker engine :D
 
Just got my new head put on after blowing a head gasket. Have about 300 miles on the new head and now the motor is making a weird noise that starts around 3000 rpms. Below are the parts that are in the head, and also a video. In the video I rev between 3000-40000 rpms. ANy idea what this noise could be?


Megan turboback exhaust
Koyorad Aluminum Radiator
Gates Racing Radiator Hoses
Cometic Metal HeadGasket
ARP Head Studs
Port and Polished head
Nitride 1mm Oversized Valves
Bronze Guides
Updated Lifters
Manley Titanium Springs and Retainers
BC 272 Cams

YouTube - 1990 Talon TSI AWD weird noise
 
I had a similar problem when i got my head gasket replaced. It turned out to be that the timing belt was installed incorrectly.

The best way to that i know of to check this is to put you Ear close to the belt cover and have someone rev the engine a little ( if that is the case). when i was inside the my car, it sounded like it was the downpipe was rattling like crazy.
I hope this helps you out.
 
I had a similar problem when i got my head gasket replaced. It turned out to be that the timing belt was installed incorrectly.

The best way to that i know of to check this is to put you Ear close to the belt cover and have someone rev the engine a little ( if that is the case). when i was inside the my car, it sounded like it was the downpipe was rattling like crazy.
I hope this helps you out.

that is exactly what it sounds like inside the car, what do you mean by installed incorrectly though?
 
I had a similar sound too but it cam from the metal backing to the timing belt cover. It was rubbing on the intake cam gear, it sounded similar.
 
Did you do the work, Or did you take it to a shop?

I just found the Mitsubishi Mechanic notes on my Experience
"Balance Shaft 180 degrees out, Also Found Cam Sprockets reveresed."

This happened to me about 2 months after getting my car. At this point i didnt know jack about this car. It was a costly learning experince for me.
 
first off do not run that car anymore.

Second I would take a good look at the timing set, make sure the belt isn't rubbing the cover and then make sure everything is in time. Also make sure the tensioner's are tight, as your hydraulic tensioner may be bad.
 
If I were you, I'd stop driving the car, find time to pull the timing belt cover(s) off, and get a good look at things down there. If the belt was rubbing against the covers, you'll see it right away. I cant quiet tell from the sound of the video clip, but your cam gears might be off a tooth or two, so make sure you check them.

Jerry
 
Before the head install I had the all the belts and tensioners replaced. Is there any reason why the tensioner may have fully opened when they were changing the head?
 
I bet you messed something up, sounds like mine did when i bent two rods.. chances are the timing is off. Check the balance shaft as said above...
Is it revving slower than usual?

Rev it up to 9ooo rpm, and see if it stalls...:barf: Dont do that...
 
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