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Engine light wont go away! Help please =D

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Abdy

Probationary Member
5
0
Dec 1, 2013
Chicago, Illinois
Hi, im new here but heres my question. My dad has a 1991 Galant VR4, and recently the engine was blown, so we replaced it with an engine that was in a 1996 Eclipse that had a 4g63 because it would fit. Heres the problem, the engine light wont go away, it also takes a long time to turn on the car he says. He though it was the fuel pump so he replaced it with a new one and that didn't work. He thinks it has to do with the ECU, btw i dont think he has the proper harness, he said something about a conversion and what not. So if anyone could help that would be great! Thanks for reading!
I wish i could describe more but my dad does not speak very good English so i cant figure out EXACTLY what he is saying to translate it into English
 
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I would check the crank and cam sensors since the sensors from the '96 engine differ from the original '91 engine. Plus the '91 VR4 had a 6 bolt engine and the '96 is a 7 bolt engine and the sensors don't match between them or the ECU signals. If you just dropped the engine in as is, you'll need to change the sensors accordingly so that everything works properly. Any pics of the engine bay would be helpful.
 
There would be some motor mount issues too with a 96 block in a gvr4.

Especially the complete lack of a front roll stop.


Op, this is extremely simple. Check the code and go from there. Just replacing things because you think they are causing a cel is the worst way to fix a problem. You shouldn't have to convert anything, just use the sensors, coil, and transistor from the original engine and it goes back together the way the old one came out other than the lack or a front roll stop assuming it is a 2 g engine.
 
if i where you i would first take it to get it scanned and find out what is triggering your cel(check engine light) once you figured it out go from there. also make sure your spark plug wires are in the correct firing order. and make sure all vaccum hoses are in the correct spot. by the way., you can get it scanned for free at auto zone or advanced.
 
if i where you i would first take it to get it scanned and find out what is triggering your cel(check engine light) once you figured it out go from there. also make sure your spark plug wires are in the correct firing order. and make sure all vaccum hoses are in the correct spot. by the way., you can get it scanned for free at auto zone or advanced.

No one at any of those stores is going to be able to scan his obd1 car. They all just have a generic obdII scanners. You can easily test for codes with a test light, or analog multimeter.
 
Thanks for the great replies! Heres the ting, the engine fit perfectly well, so im not positive on the year we got the engine from. But if i can figure out how to upload some pictures i would, i have 2 showing the engine. Ill double check with my dad and ask him if it was different mounting the engine. If i could ill get a video and maybe that will be more helpful

There would be some motor mount issues too with a 96 block in a gvr4.

He said he changed the motor mounts
 
It would have to be a 90-94 either a 6 bolt or 7.

The block is different form the head. Could it be the block that was 96 that he was talking about? Would that fit?
The head is from the car its original. Im thinking he might be wrong about it being 96 but he refuses to listen
 
The block is different form the head. Could it be the block that was 96 that he was talking about? Would that fit?
The head is from the car its original. Im thinking he might be wrong about it being 96 but he refuses to listen

The head is irrelevant to this. This mounts are on the block. You can use any head you want, but a 2 g block will never bolt directly into. 1g or a vr4. The 2g has the front and rear mount attached to the bellhousing, so there is no holes in the block on the front from the roll stop. 95-99 are all the same way. If it has a front roll stop bolted to it than it is a 1g engine.
 
He said something about needing a conversion. All i know is its related to the ECU
Thanks for the help, ill let him know all your thoughs

No ecu or wiring conversions are needed. You use the harness and ecu that came with the car. This is not a Honda, there are no swap connectors for obd swaps and whatnot.
 
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