Engine build parts list

[Cert911]

Hey guys, I'm on my second rebuild because my first one didn't tun out to good and I was wanting to get some opinions on what should I get. Here is a list of my current build so far.

Block bored 20" over and decked.
Head decked
JE 8:8:1 pistons
Eagle H-Beam rods
New OEM crank kit
Melling oil pump
SBI valve guides
1mm over sized stainless steel valves
AEM adjustable cam gears
Crane 0016 cams
AEM CAI
Fidanza 2.1 clutch kit w/ aluminum flywheel.
New timing belt tensioner and pulleys.
Unorthodox underdrive pulley
Headers
Apexi N1 exhaust
ARP head and main studs.

I built it to prepare for turbo but its is pricey. Also i want the car as a DD. Any inputs would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

 

[glowryder]

My recommendations..

Fidanza 2.1 clutch kit w/ aluminum flywheel.- findanza is usually crap, get a south bend cluthc IMO.. and u dont need the aluminum flywheel.. save ## cash for parts that really matter.. Like an LSD


New timing belt tensioner and pulleys.- ditch this and get the mechanical tensioner.

Unorthodox underdrive pulley- if you want your motor to last. run stock. again save your cash.

AEM CAI- if your going turbo, you wont need this, if your stayin NA till u get cash to turbo, then just by an ebay special.. again , save ## money for real parts..

Headers- you mean Header..if your going turbo, you wont need this, if your stayin NA till u get cash to turbo, then just leave stock... again , save ## money for real parts..

Apexi N1 exhaust- build your own.. since ## going turbo, you may or may not use some of this.. save ## cash.

If your manual, Get an Quaife LSD. with your saved cash, and thank me later..

 

[Shake_Zulla]

Block bored 20" over and decked.

First things first. Its .020 bored and don't worry about the bore ammount until you take it to a machine shop. This is done because cylinders get scratched up over time and/or they have become oblong not for any sort of performance gain. You might be able to get away with just having the cylinders honed. Also don't order pistons until you find out what bore you will end with. You want concentricity with your pistons because an extra 2 thousandths of an inch isn't going to do anything to your HP.

New timing belt tensioner and pulleys.- ditch this and get the mechanical tensioner.

I agree with this.

Unorthodox underdrive pulley- if you want your motor to last. run stock. again save your cash.

This I don't agree with many have ran this pulley with no problems including myself on my last 420A. For extra insurance you can take it to a shop and have it balanced.

 

[glowryder]

"This I don't agree with many have ran this pulley with no problems including myself on my last 420A. For extra insurance you can take it to a shop and have it balanced. "

I used to be on this band wagon, i even ran one on my last motor... then i did some searching.. Can you run it? sure.. but its only lighted and smaller, and doesn't do anything with harmonics, as ANY aftermarket UDP doesnt have the rubber band built inside like the OEM one.. will it kill ## engine, it could,there have been cases where its killed engines via killing the oil pump.. do some searching, you'll see on neons.org.. most dont run them anymore for this reason.. and they have wayyy more built/boosted 420a's then us. There is a reason DCR, and the "big boys" dont run them on thier 2.4's... frankly its not worth the "hp gains" .. if they even exist..

why spend 100-200 on a pulley that you then have to have re-machined to be balanced? Its a pulley, not a harmonic balancer like OEM. they designed it that way for a reason.. If you were N/A id say go for it.. but for boost, stick with OEM imo. im sure others will say theres no "proof". but its kinda logical.. you can not create nor destroy, only shift.. so sure u gain some sort of HP, but where are you taking it from...

 

[Shake_Zulla]

I used to be on this band wagon, i even ran one on my last motor... then i did some searching.. Can you run it? sure.. but its only lighted and smaller, and doesn't do anything with harmonics, as ANY aftermarket UDP doesnt have the rubber band built inside like the OEM one.. will it kill ## engine, it could,there have been cases where its killed engines via killing the oil pump.. do some searching, you'll see on neons.org.. most dont run them anymore for this reason.. and they have wayyy more built/boosted 420a's then us. There is a reason DCR, and the "big boys" dont run them on thier 2.4's... frankly its not worth the "hp gains" .. if they even exist..

why spend 100-200 on a pulley that you then have to have re-machined to be balanced? Its a pulley, not a harmonic balancer like OEM. they designed it that way for a reason.. If you were N/A id say go for it.. but for boost, stick with OEM imo. im sure others will say theres no "proof". but its kinda logical.. you can not create nor destroy, only shift.. so sure u gain some sort of HP, but where are you taking it from...

Yeah I have read a lot of data on torsional excitation and the "need" to have some form of "Crankshaft Torsional Absorber", however I belive that smaller 4-cylinder engines with no work done to the crank are not effected as much as the 6 and 8. The actual danger is breaking your crank and I havn't heard of anyone snapping their crank in two on a 420a because they threw on a under drive pulley. 4-cylinders have a higher stiffness-to-mass ratio then bigger engines. Maybe if they hacked up their counter weights on the shaft. I just think there is not enough conclusive evidence out there to say that you shouldn't buy one. Here is a good article that tells about it and also supports you are saying but it's up to the OP as to what to do. Not trying to argue just giving my opinion and the data I have found.
Crankshaft Torsional Absorbers, by EPI Inc.

 

[glowryder]

true it is up to OP to decide.

i think on an NA a udp is perfectly fine, but i think with the extra power that boost creates, canceling/dampening those vibrations from higher RPMS would be a nice "feeling".

correct no ones broke one to my knowlege. either way is a win, one is with cash, and the other with a small hp gain. Id say read the article, search around and decide : )

 

[Cert911]

Thanks guys. This is all very useful information. I have done some research on Under-drive pulleys and their is a big debate on whether or not to get one. As for Glowryder, thanks all that stuff sounds great and it would have saved a lot of money, unfortunately, I have already bought all the parts about a year ago before actually doing some in-depth research about each one including the under-drive pulley. But when I save up for turbo I'll change it all anyway I just didn't plan on it being too soon. One more thing, I know it is worth it to get an oil pressure gauge, but how about any other gauges for now that I'm not turbo? Thanks again for all the help!!