Engine Break In, breaking-in, motor break-in [Merged 10-6]

[BrokeTurbo]

As the following thread will illustrate, motor break-in is not the issue it was in the fifties and sixties.
For all intents and purposes, your method will not significantly matter, within reason.

Well, I am getting the laser back from the shop this weekend. Here's a List of whats new, and whats not.New Pistons, Bearings, Rods, Crankshaft, Rings, Oil pump, Belts, Pullys, Head, Valves, No balancer belt. The only real thing thats old, but freshened up is the block, and valve cover, and the FI system. (Fuel Injection)

I am going to run Mobil 1 10w-30 with a Puroilator PL101xx Filter. I have a new clutch with a resurfaced flywheel going on. I've also got new fluids in the transmission.

My question is how should I break it in? This is my first non 70's Chevy, and I was wondering if there are any tricks to it.

The way I was going to do it, was 15 min of idle, warm up. Make sure all fluids/hoses/electrical is plugged in. Then about 1 hour of normal driving. Might take out to the Highway, and cruise around 65-70 for a little bit.

This sound good? I was not going to get on it, or push it till ive got about 500 miles on the engine. Even then, I'll still be taking it easy. Anyone have any tips or help? Thanks

 

[talon8it]

i have never broke a motor in but my father has a few times he has a drag car the one major thing is dont use synthetic right off the bat the piston rings cant grab the cylinders it is to slippery but other than that it is all personal prefference he just starts his up about ten times revs it a little bit and then goes racing so i dunno good luck

 

[snowborder714]

Here's an interesting method I found...not sure how well it works so do at your own risk (although I've read some good things about it).

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

 

[gsxeclipse97]

Well it makes since but i don't think that I want to do it that way I'll try it the first one it sounds the most safe. What about boost level right now its set at 15psi should i turn it down to 9 or leave it. I was told it would be fine for me to leave it but i want to get more than one opinion on things.

 

[pooker]

Depending on what kind of engine I have always just the oil after a few thousand miles, not boosted it much and used a cheap turbo so I would ruin a bigger one if metal shavings were in the motor..

 

[staticbrainwash]

If you choose to break it in easy, you won't be boosting much anyway. So just leave it where it is.

 

[fourreGsixty3]

I help build a motor, and we broke it in in 30 miles using the motoman method, and boosting 16psi. We followed what that article stated, and have had no problem's, and changed the oil at 30miles, 250miles, 500miles, 1500miles...and at 1500miles we switched over to synthetic. Motor is still going strong.

 

[dj_lethrow]

Broke mine in running it hard. Lots of engine braking too. Runs perfect to this day over 3 years ago

 

[Spoolin98]

Subscribing.

 

[JacksonAuto]

First ask the person you purchased the engine from and find out how it was machined (if at all) and what kind of rings were used in your bottom end. They should be able to give you the proper advise for a solid break in. We supply all of our engine customers with a full break in sheet with every build. That way there is not guess work or failures. Good luck!
C Jackson

 

[fisherob]

Drive it like you own it. Vary the speeds. do not drive the car at a constant speed for 500 miles

 

[unlmtdndeavor]

Here's an interesting method I found...not sure how well it works so do at your own risk (although I've read some good things about it).

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

that site is a good reference. don't be "safe" about breaking in the motor. ever wonder why they don't tell you to break in a motor hard from the factory? well one good reason is they cannot be responsible for you taking the car over the speed limit, and then slowing down way below on the freeway. the best way in my opinion to break in a motor, do it on the dyno. thats how a lot of my friend's motors have been broken in.

 

[95GSXBLUR]

the best way in my opinion to break in a motor, do it on the dyno. thats how a lot of my friend's motors have been broken in.

Although I do agree with you, the SAFEST/BEST way to break in a motor is on a dyno, but not many people have access to an AWD dyno nor do people have any money left what-so-ever after their $5000+ engine build.

If you have the option to break in on a dyno, that's the best and safest place period.

If you do not, in order to seat the rings properly you have to rev the engine at varing speeds in various gears. Personally I would get on a highway/open 2 lane+ road merge on slowy through 1st and 2nd, then shift to 3rd and bring it to about 6K rpms @ NEAR WOT then let the ENGINE slow you back down to 3K rpms and repeat about 10 times. Then go home and IMMEDIATLY change the oil. I'll be running 20W50 synthetic blend for break in and for the life of the motor.

You can not change the oil enough within the first 1000 miles. I would do it @ every 250mi intervals. Your rings will be seated then, and after 1000-1500 miles, you'll be golden to boost hard and bring it to it's max potential.

Good luck & Happy Boosting!

 

[Spoolin98]

First ask the person you purchased the engine from and find out how it was machined (if at all) and what kind of rings were used in your bottom end. They should be able to give you the proper advise for a solid break in. We supply all of our engine customers with a full break in sheet with every build. That way there is not guess work or failures. Good luck!
C Jackson

Nice to see you chime in Carmela.

 

[Spoolin98]

Although I do agree with you, the SAFEST/BEST way to break in a motor is on a dyno, but not many people have access to an AWD dyno nor do people have any money left what-so-ever after their $5000+ engine build.

If you have the option to break in on a dyno, that's the best and safest place period.

If you do not, in order to seat the rings properly you have to rev the engine at varing speeds in various gears. Personally I would get on a highway/open 2 lane+ road merge on slowy through 1st and 2nd, then shift to 3rd and bring it to about 6K rpms @ NEAR WOT then let the ENGINE slow you back down to 3K rpms and repeat about 10 times. Then go home and IMMEDIATLY change the oil. I'll be running 20W50 synthetic blend for break in and for the life of the motor.

You can not change the oil enough within the first 1000 miles. I would do it @ every 250mi intervals. Your rings will be seated then, and after 1000-1500 miles, you'll be golden to boost hard and bring it to it's max potential.

Good luck & Happy Boosting!

Why are you using synthetic to break in your motor?

 

[luvmygst]

I used the Motoman method and the rings seated perfect,no problems since. One of my god friends buidls race motors. He goes to through 1 heat cycle (warm up, cool all the way down) warm it back up and drive it like you stole it. If its gonna break it will do it then. He has no problems and builds the best race motors around.

 

[unlmtdndeavor]

I used the Motoman method and the rings seated perfect,no problems since. One of my god friends buidls race motors. He goes to through 1 heat cycle (warm up, cool all the way down) warm it back up and drive it like you stole it. If its gonna break it will do it then. He has no problems and builds the best race motors around.

motoman method ftw

 

[MadScientist92]

I have broke in engines using two different methods well step two is different.

1. Start the car DO NOT rev it. Alot of people want to rev there motors to hear them don't do it. Besides it's only thirty minutes; so use some self control. Let it Idle for 30 minutes. This to get any metal or any other debris out of the motor. Not for the rings themselves. This a safety precaution no matter how clean your builder says it is.

2. The Motoman method with quick bursts and engine loading on deceleration. The other method is varying RPMs for 500miles that's right on and off the gas for 500miles very hard to do due to self restraint. Both worked well and both vehicles are still running well to this day. Over a year later on both with only about a 5psi drop in compression.

3. Change the oil and filter after which ever method you choose.

4. Drive it "Normal" for around 1500miles IE no racing.

5. Change oil and filter.

6. Drive it like you stole it

I would recomend a compression test every couple hundred mile if you have the ability to do so. Just to check the break in. It only takes 5 minutes or so.

 

[eldiabloz13]

I would recomend a compression test every couple hundred mile if you have the ability to do so. Just to check the break in. It only takes 5 minutes or so.

I see a lot of people say this. What good is it going to do by checking the comp. If it comes out crappy then what, ya know. I would just check when the break in is done. If its bad its bad. What good would it do checking every so often.

 

[95GSXBLUR]

Why are you using synthetic to break in your motor?

it's a blend. no where near full synthetic. it's heavy weight dino with some additives.

breaking in with 100% full synthetic is very bad. as we all should know, and something that I would not do.

 

[2GeNTSi]

Hmmm glad I took a look at this because I'm actually having a 6-bolt rebuilt/swapped (block rebuilt by Newlogics, head purchased from clearwater) to my car right now along with a tre stage II transmission, act2100, and xact streetlite flywheel.

I gave him Mobil 1 5w-30 along with the car, but I'm going to call him and ask him to put in 10w-30 Castrol GTX. I'm just going to buy 15qts of that and some decent filters for the break-in of the motor. I plan to change the oil and filter at 500, 1k, 3k. On the last oil change, I'm gonna switch to Mobil 1 10w-30 and a Purolator filter.

As for the drivetrain, I'm running Redline MT-90 right away, doing the fluid change at 500 and 1k. I don't plan to boost at all or "test-out" the drivetrain until I hit 3k. It's going to be a long time, but I'll do it.

 

[2point3Tsi]

Although I do agree with you, the SAFEST/BEST way to break in a motor is on a dyno, but not many people have access to an AWD dyno nor do people have any money left what-so-ever after their $5000+ engine build.

LMFAO!! I'm saving up for this right now!(Not trying to thread jack but is $700 for a full map reasonable or $180/hour)

 

[95GSXBLUR]

Hmmm glad I took a look at this because I'm actually having a 6-bolt rebuilt/swapped (block rebuilt by Newlogics, head purchased from clearwater) to my car right now along with a tre stage II transmission, act2100, and xact streetlite flywheel.

I gave him Mobil 1 5w-30 along with the car, but I'm going to call him and ask him to put in 10w-30 Castrol GTX. I'm just going to buy 15qts of that and some decent filters for the break-in of the motor. I plan to change the oil and filter at 500, 1k, 3k. On the last oil change, I'm gonna switch to Mobil 1 10w-30 and a Purolator filter.

As for the drivetrain, I'm running Redline MT-90 right away, doing the fluid change at 500 and 1k. I don't plan to boost at all or "test-out" the drivetrain until I hit 3k. It's going to be a long time, but I'll do it.

I would change your oil far more often then 500 1K and 3K. there will be MANY THOUSANDS of micro-metal shavings floating around everywhere in your engine. RIGHT after your break in you should change it (regaurdless of miles 30 or less) then I strongly recommend you change it @ 250, 500. 750, 1000, then @ 1500. you could switch to a synthetic then.

for the record I've spund two bearings in two FACTORY engines using Mobile 1 10w-30. (both with under 100,000 miles) I will not use mobile one again.

Why would you change your transmission fluid so often? there isn't any combustion going on their either... correct me if I'm wrong but there is not any type of break-in procedure for a M/T? MT-90 is expensive to be changing multiple times....

 

[2GeNTSi]

I would change your oil far more often then 500 1K and 3K. there will be MANY THOUSANDS of micro-metal shavings floating around everywhere in your engine. RIGHT after your break in you should change it (regaurdless of miles 30 or less) then I strongly recommend you change it @ 250, 500. 750, 1000, then @ 1500. you could switch to a synthetic then.

for the record I've spund two bearings in two FACTORY engines using Mobile 1 10w-30. (both with under 100,000 miles) I will not use mobile one again.

Why would you change your transmission fluid so often? there isn't any combustion going on their either... correct me if I'm wrong but there is not any type of break-in procedure for a M/T? MT-90 is expensive to be changing multiple times....

Well doing it so frequently won't be all that convenient because I don't live at my parents' house anymore, and there's a good chance that I'll have to drive my car back to work all the way from where the shop is located within a day of picking it up. It might be possible to do those oil change intervals if I plan to drive back and forth to work and my parents' house (which is a 60 mile commute), but to my understanding that would require my car to stay at sustained RPMs since I'll be on the highway, and that is apparently bad while breaking-in.

If the car is done before my spring break, I guess I can just do more driving that week than usual and commute to work from my parents' house and try to hit 500 miles at least. I'll just occassionally downshift and accelerate a bit to vary the RPMs.

Oh and as for the transmission, I'm just going by what Jon at TRE recommends.

 

[2GSOCAL]

Ok with a fresh rebuilt engine what is a recommened safe level of boost that wouldnt stress the engine too much, right now it is stock T-25 but i got a big 16G EVOIII i need to put in. Also when i use to set the boost as low as possible with my manual boost controller it would still register as 10lbs, is that normal? Also how much would it cost to take your car to a tuner and have him professionally tune the car? And would this require a A/F controller being installed in the car? Thanks for the help...

 

[snowborder714]

Also when i use to set the boost as low as possible with my manual boost controller it would still register as 10lbs, is that normal

Yes, because the boost will then be controlled by the internal wastegate. It would just be like running no mbc at all.

Also how much would it cost to take your car to a tuner and have him professionally tune the car? And would this require a A/F controller being installed in the car?

It all depends on the shop for the cost. Someone from your area would be better off giving you a cost. When you go to have the car tuned, you will need some sort of tuning device (SAFC, DSMLink, etc.) obviously. Some places have their own wideband O2 sensors that they can plug in and some don't. So you may or may not need one. Also, according to your profile you have an A/F guage. That really isn't going to help when tuning the car. You'll need a wideband O2 which is more accurate than a A/F gauge which is narrowband.