Eliminating the ISC and FIAV !

[KaLo_o]

ok so i have a question about the block off plates that you can buy, i know there is 2 options. 1 is to only block the FIAV and the other plate is to conpletely block off the bottom part of the throttle body. ive probably read every dam thread about this subject but my question is this.

I want to Eliminate the bottom part of my throttle body completely and block it with the plate that JMF sells, i know that with Link you can tune out the idle ( somewhat) and make the idle a little better. im also aware that my car might not idle right until its warmed up and that i might have to hit the gas pedal a bit for the first minute or 2 on start up.

the reason i want to Eliminate the ISC aswell as the FIAV is because ive had my ISC fail on me and it killed my ECU leaving me on the side of the road! i never want that to happen again and im so tired of those cheap ISC anyways, they are garbage!

i dont drive my car in the winters....so cold starting should not be that much of a problem right? i just want some input on this from others. anybody on here eliminated both and didnt have anything to tune the car with? im running stock maf right now untill i get new injectors..then i will hook up my MAFT pro and run speed density.

so please guys...give me your input...thanks!

 

[e85_4g63]

I've blocked off a couple. If your using e85 in any kind of weather below 70*F FORGET ABOUT IT. Other then that, they've worked great for me. I use the Level Zero motorsports version, $5 shipped, Doesn't come with screws though.

 

[river]

I just deleted both of mine because I literally was having problems with about 5 different ISC's. The car is a pain in the ass to keep running, until it's at normal operating temp. You can delete both without having a way to tune the car. You're going to have to rely on the set screw to moderate your idle air, which kinda sucks...mine is almost backed all the way out.

 

[KaLo_o]

well all im using is 91 octane and i drive the car when the salt is off the roads or when there is no more snow... so like about 60*F for a bit...then for sure its warmer then that ... what do you think? i heard that as long as you adjust the biss screw after the warm up then it should idle nice when its warm and i will just have to warm up the car everytime i start up and maybe hold the gas a little to help for the first minute of 2.... what do you think?

 

[black_gst]

i am on e85 with 1600cc injectors and cams, and i have the complete block off, if you have link it will take some extra time to tune for cold starts but its doable

 

[LiquidX]

You don't need to buy a block off or bypass plate if you decide to keep the ICS which you should especially being in Canada.

 

[dexterholland04]

If you drive in warmer weather, you would be fine. I eliminated my ISC/FIAV with a JM Fab blockoff plate a month ago. Best mod I ever did to the car. I used DSM Link to tune the idle and it idles better than it ever had before. Just keep in mind that in colder weather that YOU are the cold idle control when the car is cold. When I start my car ever week or so in the winter, I give it a touch of throttle to keep the car running until it warms up a little bit.

I would not do this mod to a car that I would DD all year round (not a problem in your case). It took me an hour or so to get the throttle body off, remove the idle assembly from the TB, and install the blockoff plate. You will need to loop the coolant lines that run to and from the TB, one of the old hoses has enough slack to properly loop the system. Also make sure that you mark and install the TPS back to its original position on the TB.

To tune the idle, break out DSM Link and log your ISC position value. Use your laptop to fine-tune its position. In your RPM settings, check the boxes to allow for the ECU to simulate the idle switch from TPS. Start your car and ensure there are no coolant leaks, letting it warm up to normal operating temperature. From there I make sure my o2 sensor is cycling and that my AFRs are good (I tend to idle my car a little leaner than 14.7). From there, just log a few minutes of idling in link and then compensate your airflow and fuel from there.

I hope this answers what you are looking for!

Edit: I would look at FFWD Connection and JM Fab for the plates. I know that the JM Fab block off plate comes with new screws and I think the FFWD one does too.

 

[9!'clipseDOHC]

I have done both, bypassed the FIAV and blocked off the FIAV and the ISC and I have found that best thing to do is just get a working ISC. My car ran better with the plates installed then it did when I had a dead ISC but with a working ISC it starts up, warms up, and idles like a dream.

There is an easy way to test to see if your ISC is working. Just unbolt it from the throttle body (2, 10mm bolts), leave it plugged into the wiring harness, have a friend (or anyone really) turn the key to the "ON" position and back off a few times. The ISC should turn in and out like in the below video. If it does not, consider buying a new one from these guys: DSMISC.

<iframe title="YouTube video player" class="youtube-player" type="text/html" width="480" height="390" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/l7R3gf7SiAo?rel=0" frameborder="0" allowFullScreen></iframe>

Hope this helps!

 

[KaLo_o]

OK i think that i will go with a new ISC from these guys... sounds really good and i hope that Mitsubishi has made an improvement with their newer ISC ( black one ) i do still have a question....

I hear that some dsm'ers have had problems with leaking coolant to the throttle body and that there is no way to solve it other than buying a new bottom end to the throttle body?? is this true and is that part available to buy new?? i don't get from where it could leak even if you get a new gasket? this might be false info but there are threads on here about it

 

[92EagleAWD]

I got an FIAV bypass plate a long time ago, and adjusted my idle with the BISS. Havent had a problem since. But i do have to give it some gas for the first 10-20 seconds of a cold start.

 

[LiquidX]

The ISC I got from rockauto.com has been flawless for months now and it's a good bit cheaper too IIRC

For the leaking coolant it would be the "o ring" gasket going bad. If you want to block it off for free, knock out the freeze plug and turn the circular plug on the inside clockwise until if fully bottoms out. It is effectively closing off the air passage and eliminating the FIAV. Now you can loop the coolant lines or plug them at the pipe nipple.

 

[9!'clipseDOHC]

OK i think that i will go with a new ISC from these guys... sounds really good and i hope that Mitsubishi has made an improvement with their newer ISC ( black one ) i do still have a question....

I hear that some dsm'ers have had problems with leaking coolant to the throttle body and that there is no way to solve it other than buying a new bottom end to the throttle body?? is this true and is that part available to buy new?? i don't get from where it could leak even if you get a new gasket? this might be false info but there are threads on here about it

I am running the revised (black body) ISC and it works great!

I have never heard of that being a problem. The gaskets and hoses are both replaceable if you do have a leak. If there is a leak beyond the gaskets or hoses it would have to be a crack in the housing and then yes you would have to get a different throttle body.

Hope this helps!

 

[slidesidwayz]

Can you run isc simulation with moates ostrich?