2G Electrical issues to finish GST build

[tschuhly]

Hey everyone,

This is my first project car, and I am nearing the end of it, but I have the dreaded electrical gremlins that are keeping me from saying its complete. I am waiting for my base tune to come back from JK Tuning in Carlisle, PA so I am unable to start the car, but I have switched the key to the on position and found these issues. I am fairly new to all of this so any help is appreciated.

I have already checked all fuses and went through all of the main harness ground points and ensured that they were clean and metal on metal. I also have an after market radio (Kenwood). I am going to post all problems here because I am unsure if they are related.

1. Dash lights always on regardless if the switch is on or off.
2. Tail lights always on
3. Fog lights not working
4. Left turn signal fast (missing right side marker socket).
5. Right turn signal slow (")
6. Front headlights don't work (low/high)
7. Horn (I can hear something engage so I am fairly certain it is just the horn.
8. Hazards don't work
9. Buzzing with dimmer switch when black/yellow wire is connected to radio plug and radio is grounded. When disconnected, dash lights don't work at all but buzzing goes away. The thing that is weird is the pin that it is connected in on the plug doesn't have anything on the radio side of the plug that connects to it. I have taken the switch apart and nothing looks off.
10. High pitch noise when on from radio almost like a dog whistle (different noise than previous).
11. Handbrake light stays on

Thank you guys so much!!!

 

[99dsmer4g63]

What about the license plate lights?

I ask because the fuse that runs the dash lights is the same as the running lights in the back.

The high pitch noise is probably something to do with the ground on the radio. I’d check to see how the radio is grounded and/or remove the added wire if it’s not intended to be there.

Check for the rubber stopper in the brake pedal for the brake switch. It’s probably missing which is why the brake lights are on.

You see any added wiring or is everything still factory?

-Daniel

 

[steve]

One common mistake is how the radio is wired to the dimmer and lighting circuits. Which Kenwood and who did the install. Do these problems continue when the radio unplugged?

 

[tschuhly]

One common mistake is how the radio is wired to the dimmer and lighting circuits. Which Kenwood and who did the install. Do these problems continue when the radio unplugged?

It's a Kenwood DDX774BH and I did the install (I know, not the most reassuring answer ). I believe when I unplugged the radio the dash lights didn't work at all. I then saw the orange/white wire that was labeled dimmer on the back of the radio so I tried to wire the black/yellow to that and the dimmer seemed to work for the radio, but the dash still didn't work so I undid that. I tried to be sure that I followed the wiring diagram that came with the radio and matched it up to the adapter for the car that was already there when I bought it.


EDIT: I just depinned and repinned the plug to ensure it is all correct. Do these connections sound right to you?
Speakers:
FR+ - Pin 1 (White/red)
FR- - Pin 7 (black/red)
FL+ - Pin 2 (white/blue)
FL- - Pin 8 (black/blue)
RR+ - Pin 6 (yellow/red)
RR- - Pin 14 (gray/red)
RL+ - Pin 5 (Yellow/blue)
RL- - pin 13 (Gray/blue)
Power Antenna - Pin 4 (White/black) unused with new radio.
Illumination - Pin 3 (green/white) I had this spliced into my 12+ as well which may have caused the issue. I will see tomorrow! I think I need to wire my dimmer wire to this wire.
Ignition switch - Pin 11 (blue/white)
12+ - Pin 10 (red)

My question is then what do I do with my black/yellow wire (pin 9) that controls the ground of the dimmer knob (rheostat)? That will be left without a connection on the plug.

 

[tschuhly]

What about the license plate lights?

I ask because the fuse that runs the dash lights is the same as the running lights in the back.

The high pitch noise is probably something to do with the ground on the radio. I’d check to see how the radio is grounded and/or remove the added wire if it’s not intended to be there.

Check for the rubber stopper in the brake pedal for the brake switch. It’s probably missing which is why the brake lights are on.

You see any added wiring or is everything still factory?

-Daniel

Thanks Daniel!

I took a look and noticed that the rubber stopper is still there and the LP lights are on. They were replaced as LEDs though.
The tail lights look like they are on as daytime running lights, not the brighter brake lights.
As for wiring. I did notice that some of the harness has been modded for stuff but before putting everything back together I did try to do my best to removed and put it back to normal aside from some stuff like deleting driver airbag, bypassing starter solenoid (behind radio) and added gauges (they are added via add a fuse not spliced into harness.

 

[tschuhly]

UPDATE: I rewired the radio as stated above and the radio works fine without a hum coming from dimmer switch but now dash lights, tail lights/brake lights don't work at all (though blinkers and hazards still do).

I did check the fuse box under the hood and it doesn't seem like I am getting power to 15amp tail, 15 amp fog lamp, 10amp headlight, 20amp conditioner fans.

I'll keep chasing wires but also still appreciate any input because I am pretty new to all of this and wiring stuff has always been intimidating to me.

 

[19Eclipse90]

If no power is getting to those fuses, I would start by checking the 40A number 5 fuse in the engine bay fuse box, indicated in this schematic.

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You can see below that fuse provides power to the head and tail light relays, which would ultimately power fogs, head and tail lights, amongst other things.

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If the fuse is good, move on to checking those relays.

 

[tschuhly]

MAN, thank you so much! That was it! I could have sworn that I checked that but maybe that was before I tampered with the radio after realizing something was crossed. I was studying how to read electrical diagrams and systematically start working through all of this but you are a life saver!

The only thing left is to find out why my left blinker is fast, right blinker is slow and left blinker light stays on in the dash. Both blinker and side markers on the right were corroded so I figure I'll check that turn signal box that is behind the radio if nothing obvious sticks out to me. The good news is, I don't think this will keep it from passing inspection since the lights all technically work!! I may be able to get behind the wheel of this thing shortly! It'll be the first time driving a DSM since my first car which I sold like 10 or so years ago!

 

[99dsmer4g63]

Typically a fast blinking turn signal indicates a bulb being out. You said they light up though?

Do the hazards work now correctly?

What about the hand brake light?

Are you local to Carlisle?

-Daniel

 

[tschuhly]

Typically a fast blinking turn signal indicates a bulb being out. You said they light up though?

Do the hazards work now correctly?

What about the hand brake light?

Are you local to Carlisle?

-Daniel

Well, I found corrosion on my front passenger turn signal and side marker bulbs and sockets and am going to try to get a replacement tomorrow at a junk yard. The weird thing is the fast blinking is happening on my drivers side which has all the lights working.

The hazards do flash at normal speed and all bulbs that are currently installed turn on with them.

The handbrake light I will have to double check and get back to you (I will try tomorrow or Thursday).

I am about an hour South of Carlisle in York right on the MD line. OH WOW! I didn't realize you were so close!! Hopefully soon you'll start seeing me at the local car shows and stuff!!

AND just saw you went to the same place I am going to for tuning!!

 

[chrysler kid]

The tail light sockets and bulbs are notoriously finicky, when the eclipses were more common to see as regular traffic it was very common to see them with a bad rear bulb. Try removing the tail lights from the car to inspect and clean the wiring and the sockets. On one of my rebuilds the harness was pinched under the gasket to the body of the car, it got bad enough that it would blow the tail light fuse which controlled the dash lights and dimmer switch fuse as well

 

[Ready2Ride1962]

It's a Kenwood DDX774BH and I did the install (I know, not the most reassuring answer ). I believe when I unplugged the radio the dash lights didn't work at all. I then saw the orange/white wire that was labeled dimmer on the back of the radio so I tried to wire the black/yellow to that and the dimmer seemed to work for the radio, but the dash still didn't work so I undid that. I tried to be sure that I followed the wiring diagram that came with the radio and matched it up to the adapter for the car that was already there when I bought it.


EDIT: I just depinned and repinned the plug to ensure it is all correct. Do these connections sound right to you?
Speakers:
FR+ - Pin 1 (White/red)
FR- - Pin 7 (black/red)
FL+ - Pin 2 (white/blue)
FL- - Pin 8 (black/blue)
RR+ - Pin 6 (yellow/red)
RR- - Pin 14 (gray/red)
RL+ - Pin 5 (Yellow/blue)
RL- - pin 13 (Gray/blue)
Power Antenna - Pin 4 (White/black) unused with new radio.
Illumination - Pin 3 (green/white) I had this spliced into my 12+ as well which may have caused the issue. I will see tomorrow! I think I need to wire my dimmer wire to this wire.
Ignition switch - Pin 11 (blue/white)
12+ - Pin 10 (red)

My question is then what do I do with my black/yellow wire (pin 9) that controls the ground of the dimmer knob (rheostat)? That will be left without a connection on the plug.

Why are you pinning and unpinning anyway? This shouldn't be necessary if you have the correct aftermarket harness like say one from Metra.

Should just be matching the harness wires to the radio wires, crimp them or solder/tape and then plug it in. I am concerned that you spliced a +12V constant (?) into the factory illumination wire.

Post photos of the car's harness so we can tell if you have moved anything, the aftermarket adapter so we can tell if you have moved anything and the radio wiring harness plus the sheet that came with the radio. Then I can sort it all out.

 

[tschuhly]

Why are you pinning and unpinning anyway? This shouldn't be necessary if you have the correct aftermarket harness like say one from Metra. Should just be matching the harness wires to the radio wires, crimp them or solder/tape and then plug it in. I am concerned that you spliced a +12V constant(?) into the factory illumination wire. Post photos of the car's harness so we can tell if you have moved anything, the aftermarket adapter so we can tell if you have moved anything and the radio wiring harness plus the sheet that came with the radio. Then I can sort it all out.

Will do! I decided to depin because I had already matched everything up the first time (I thought), soldered and shrink tubed it, so it was easier to depin then to undo and redo all of that.

The +12v I think is for the radio to detect if the lights or on so then it can dim the radio at night. The post that I have above is exactly how I wired it if that helps but I will definitely post a pic here when I get a chance.

Edit: Here is a picture of the diagram and I can't post a video, but the radio does slightly dim when lights are on (for night driving). It does seem to make a popping noise in the speakers when turning the light off though. I am not going to post a picture of the harness since it may get a little confusing since I moved stuff around but ill repost how I have it wired here.

Speakers:
FR+ - Pin 1 (White/red)
FR- - Pin 7 (black/red)
FL+ - Pin 2 (white/blue)
FL- - Pin 8 (black/blue)
RR+ - Pin 6 (yellow/red)
RR- - Pin 14 (gray/red)
RL+ - Pin 5 (Yellow/blue)
RL- - pin 13 (Gray/blue)
Power Antenna - Pin 4 (White/black) unused with new radio.
Illumination - Pin 3 (green/white) Auto-dimmer.
Ignition switch - Pin 11 (blue/white) unused
constant 12+ - Pin 10 (red)
Ground is connected to the same bolt that the harness ground it connected to.


As far as checking the sockets, there were a couple that were corroded and I went ahead and cleaned them. I think my battery is starting to die since I haven't officially started it this whole time but it seemed like the blinker speeds and everything is better now. The light is still solid on the dash for the left blinker. One thing that is odd, is it seems like the left tail light blink together, while the right tail light bulbs blink unsynced (one on is off the other it one and vice versa).

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[tschuhly]

Sooo, I ended up disassembling the bulb sockets and really cleaning everything well. Also making sure that the ground wires are making good contact with the metal cylinder on the bulb sockets...IT WORKED! All of the light issues are fixed including the solid dash lights!

For those that are unsure how to disassemble the sockets that don't unplug (i.e. tail lights) simply remove the bulb, take a pick or something that you can feed through the bulb retainer slots, and twist while pulling the metal apart from the plastic. You can then push the wires up through to really clean them well!

 

[tschuhly]

So now on to the next and possibly last thing...
The high pitched whine is still there, my SRS light is on when turning key to "on" without starting and my brake light is on (though I think this is supposed to go off once engine is started which I will test once I get my base tune).

I have deleted my driver side air bag and plugged in a Kent Moore dummy load tool. I'm scared to try tampering with it since I don't know much about SRS and really don't want to screw anything up or worse, set it off .

I did try unplugging the radio and the rheostat but the whine remained.