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Either Greddy Type S is weird or I'm an idiot

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CLEANest98GSX

10+ Year Contributor
64
0
Jun 17, 2010
Maple Hts., Ohio
Ok. After searching through all sorts of DSM forums I still haven't found anything close to resembling what has been going on with my car.

Mods
Nothing, but basic bolt-ons. I will go into detail if need be, but I doubt it will be necessary.

Yesterday
Running Greddy Type S venting to the atm with only the top nipple connected
-Ever since the type S was installed this way, I have noticed rough idle and minor misfiring and eventually, my CEL came on. Code read TPS. I cleared the code.

Decided to recirculate and splice into turbo line to add another line to the lower port of the valve.

After this, I noticed the valve was tremendously louder, which eliminated the Greddy signature whistle, which to me is odd, but then I noticed what my boost gauge was reading.

Mind you, my car is pretty much stock. My gauge was reading between 12-15 before all of this happened. During the test drive, it shot up to between 25-27psi. :nono: So I'm thinking to myself, how is this possible? I do not have a MBC btw, if that makes a difference.

Today

On my way to work, I was trying to get ahead of someone. I was in 5th doing 80mph when my valve just opened up under boost. To be honest, it kind of felt like it was a surge. As soon as this happened, CEL went on right away.


Any advice is appreciated.

Thanks
 
You tapped into the line going to your wastegate. It's stealing pressure that should be helping your wastegate open. Wastegates and blow off valves need their own dedicated lines.

Leave the bottom nipple open, STOP venting your blow off valve, and pray you didn't stress your poor little t25 to the point of no saving it.
 
Does that mean that gauge wasn't lying? Also, I was just following the install that was recvomended on here
 
Here's how you get it to work: First, open it up and remove the smaller of the two springs inside. Then connect the upper nipple only to a post-throttle body vacuum/boost source. Adjust, and you're done.

Oh, and recirculate it.
 
Here's how you get it to work: First, open it up and remove the smaller of the two springs inside. Then connect the upper nipple only to a post-throttle body vacuum/boost source. Adjust, and you're done.

I thought that the single spring mod shouldn't be done with my setup. Theoretically, I can just have the top nipple connected and the second one plugged and leave everything the same no?

Please note, the reason I decided to connect the bottom nipple was because my car sounded like I had a boost leak and after I recirculated and installed the line to the lower nipple, the leak/sound of the leak disappeared.
 
I thought that the single spring mod shouldn't be done with my setup. Theoretically, I can just have the top nipple connected and the second one plugged and leave everything the same no?

Please note, the reason I decided to connect the bottom nipple was because my car sounded like I had a boost leak and after I recirculated and installed the line to the lower nipple, the leak/sound of the leak disappeared.

Where are you getting your information?

Do the single spring removal. Leave the lower nipple open to atmosphere. If it sounded like you had a boost leak you more than likely didn't adjust it properly.
 
Where are you getting your information?

Do the single spring removal. Leave the lower nipple open to atmosphere. If it sounded like you had a boost leak you more than likely didn't adjust it properly.

Had nothing to do with adjustments, but I believe the heart of the problem was due to the adjustment screw. Like many Greddys, the screw stripped and I re-tapped the hole, which seemed to fix a part of the issue.

What are the benefits of the single spring mod, I remember reading about it on some evo forum, but I am forgetting all the details. I was told that the single spring mod can cause some leaking in the valve.
 
Not being able to adjust it properly is still not being adjusted properly. You probably should have mentioned that detail when you asked for help initially. Leaving out little details like "my part was actually broken" doesn't make it easier for those of us spending our time to help you out.

I found this with a quick google search explaining what the spring removal is for:
http://www.evomoto.com/tech_info.php?tech_id=7

Not sure who told you that, and maybe in some cases it does as I can only speak for myself, but mine doesn't leak in boost leak tests.
 
Leaving out little details like "my part was actually broken" doesn't make it easier for those of us spending our time to help you out.[/QUOTE]


It was left out because it was insignificant. Part was fixed way before the situation.

But thanks for the help. The link you posted was one that I was referring to. I will try it without it just to see what happens.

As of right now, I'm back at my normal boost since I removed the line going to the lower nipple.
 
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