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EGR Valve Block-off

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92redman said:
Do you even have a clue what you are talking about?
Okay, here's the deal, I can get as tech as you want, I generally try to stay on the side of a little common sense, and a little supporting. You want to tell me I'm an idiot, make sure you have good reading comprehension ;)

Automobile manufacturers wouldn't spend the extra money on egr valves if they didn't help emissions.
Actually they spend a lot of money on stupid government mandates- they also don't spend a lot of money on things, they figure out the cheapest effective way to do something, then they job it out to the lowest bidder. Money on the EGR valves that are used on the 4G63, the 1.8 and the 3.0 is simply they have it, they are required by the government. Simply because it's there isn't understanding that it actually works or should be there. How it works is not WHY it works.

I don't understand how you can think that reducing the displacement of an engine will not give you better gas mileage.
I didn't say decreasing the displacement of a motor won't give you a few more miles- I said that I don't see how inserting inert gas is going to help you- you are simply band-aiding a symptom, not fixing the problem. Inserting inert gas doesn't make your motor get better mileage- it simply makes your motor act like a bit less of a motor. Instead of making it more efficent, they just make it act smaller. That your ECU doesn't recognize the EGR being open or shut begs the question how can the ECU then decrease fuel? It doesn't. EGR just means that less oxygen is being burnt, that means that the O2 sees a rich mixture and leans it some. You could have just as easily set the ECU to decrease A/F a bit and gotten the same results- problem is that the government when emissions got started didn't have half the resources and the tech wasn't able to give such good results. EGR isn't new, it's old tech that is mechanical rather than digital- thus there is more play (obviously, we can increase our gas mileage BEYOND mitsu's ratings with good tuning) in our ECU than in the mechanical systems.


Nobody said that it increases hp, it decreases temps which decrease chance of detonation.
So no one said it increases HP- but I said that it easily DECREASES HP by dumping carbon deposits into the intake and combustion chamber. And it doesn't decrease temps WHEN IT MATTERS FOR DETONATION! If the EGR is shut at WOT and you have the greatest risk of detonation then (and that carbon doesn't HELP btw) then what good is it's decrease of detonation- if you are detonating at part throttle then you've got bigger problems. And again, you can change the ECU timing and A/F enough to take it out of the mix as well.

The honeycombs in the cat are not just metal, there is a couple(3) different catalysts which actually reduces NOx, carbon monoxide, and unburnt hydrocarbons.
Yeah, I've killed enough kitties to know, but do you know the 3 different catalysts? And more importantly how does what you just said relate? How can they reduce NOx and unburnt hydrocarbons? They do it by trying to up the temps in the cat to a level where they burn, allowing them to seperate into less EPA deemed harmful elements. The fact that there are plenty of cars that run NO cats, no precats and 93 octane and pass EPA inspection without problems as well as create more HP and better mileage means that something in what you're being told about emissions has something slightly off ;)


A high combustion chamber temperature pruduces high levels of NOx emissions.
But lowering the combustion chamber temps helps lower them, but then you need a catalytic converter to heat these things back up to help them burn then? Come on- NOx emissions weren't the point- mileage was- mileage that isn't helped by lowering combustion temps- the better you burn the oxygen the more power you produce, the more power you produce from each drop of gas used to ignite the larger amount of oxygen means the less you need to generate enough energy to maintain speed. That is how you get better mileage - not thru tricks about this or that- good clean burn coupled with efficent drivetrain and an ECU smart enough to know when you need it.

How could you easily inject inert gas into the cylinders without an EGR? Have a tank of already combusted gases in the trunk?

Inert means it don't burn. There are many many gasses that don't burn. All EGR does is uses something that is already there to trick the motor into believing it's smaller than it is. Hopefully your ECU sees this and decreases the gas it dumps a bit. You can do what the EGR does cleaner, and more efficently than a 25year old design that leaves carbon residue.
 
Shadowfax said:
Okay, here's the deal, I can get as tech as you want, I generally try to stay on the side of a little common sense, and a little supporting. You want to tell me I'm an idiot, make sure you have good reading comprehension ;)
I didn't say you were an idiot. I asked if you knew what you were talking about.

Shadowfax said:
Actually they spend a lot of money on stupid government mandates- they also don't spend a lot of money on things, they figure out the cheapest effective way to do something, then they job it out to the lowest bidder. Money on the EGR valves that are used on the 4G63, the 1.8 and the 3.0 is simply they have it, they are required by the government. Simply because it's there isn't understanding that it actually works or should be there. How it works is not WHY it works.
EGR is not required. Some vehicles currently reduce NOx emissions by playing with cam timing, but that also reduces hp.

Shadowfax said:
I didn't say decreasing the displacement of a motor won't give you a few more miles- I said that I don't see how inserting inert gas is going to help you- you are simply band-aiding a symptom, not fixing the problem. Inserting inert gas doesn't make your motor get better mileage- it simply makes your motor act like a bit less of a motor. Instead of making it more efficent, they just make it act smaller. That your ECU doesn't recognize the EGR being open or shut begs the question how can the ECU then decrease fuel? It doesn't. EGR just means that less oxygen is being burnt, that means that the O2 sees a rich mixture and leans it some. You could have just as easily set the ECU to decrease A/F a bit and gotten the same results- problem is that the government when emissions got started didn't have half the resources and the tech wasn't able to give such good results. EGR isn't new, it's old tech that is mechanical rather than digital- thus there is more play (obviously, we can increase our gas mileage BEYOND mitsu's ratings with good tuning) in our ECU than in the mechanical systems.
Personally, I would rather have a smaller displacement while cruising than lean the engine out. But, you can go ahead and lean your car out all you want. On an OBDII vehicle, the ECU does know when the EGR is working and actually controlls it's function by pulsewidth modulation(that's digital).

Shadowfax said:
So no one said it increases HP- but I said that it easily DECREASES HP by dumping carbon deposits into the intake and combustion chamber. And it doesn't decrease temps WHEN IT MATTERS FOR DETONATION! If the EGR is shut at WOT and you have the greatest risk of detonation then (and that carbon doesn't HELP btw) then what good is it's decrease of detonation- if you are detonating at part throttle then you've got bigger problems. And again, you can change the ECU timing and A/F enough to take it out of the mix as well.
You shouldn't have a problem if you clean out the intake system that is already gummed up, it takes probably a good 30-40 thousand miles to clog it up again. It does decrease temps when it matters, if you cruise at a constant speed with cylinder temps at 4500 degrees and decide to accelerate you will probably detonate(the valves, pistons, head will retain much of that heat for a while). If you cruise around with cylinder temps closer to 2500, you will have significantly less chance.

Shadowfax said:
Yeah, I've killed enough kitties to know, but do you know the 3 different catalysts? And more importantly how does what you just said relate? How can they reduce NOx and unburnt hydrocarbons? They do it by trying to up the temps in the cat to a level where they burn, allowing them to seperate into less EPA deemed harmful elements. The fact that there are plenty of cars that run NO cats, no precats and 93 octane and pass EPA inspection without problems as well as create more HP and better mileage means that something in what you're being told about emissions has something slightly off ;)
The first catalyst is the reduction catalyst for NOx which separates the NO and NO2 into N2 and O2. Then the second is oxidation which burns the excess hydrocarbons and leaves you with carbon dioxid and water. The third part isn't really a catalyst, but the honeycomb structure that spreads the catalyst out to make it the most effective with the least amount of material.

Shadowfax said:
But lowering the combustion chamber temps helps lower them, but then you need a catalytic converter to heat these things back up to help them burn then? Come on- NOx emissions weren't the point- mileage was- mileage that isn't helped by lowering combustion temps- the better you burn the oxygen the more power you produce, the more power you produce from each drop of gas used to ignite the larger amount of oxygen means the less you need to generate enough energy to maintain speed. That is how you get better mileage - not thru tricks about this or that- good clean burn coupled with efficent drivetrain and an ECU smart enough to know when you need it.
Again, the combustion temps create NOx and the catalyst in the converter separates the NO and NO2, not the heat.
 
While it might not mean much to you- I am much impressed by your reply :) I have volumes of writeups on 3si, ls1, stangnet, corral and others, and your reply to what I wrote is quite simply the best rebuttal I've seen in a long time. Whereas I still believe that EGR by introducing even slight carbon into your intake and chambers makes it not worth the small gains, your manner of actions has impressed me considerably :)

I will drop this here, saying that you know "the why" , and although it's 3am and I can't quite imagine temps around 4500 since aluminum starts to melt around 1600F I'm not going to even start to form a response. I consider myself more fully answered on a debate than I have been in years. My hat's off to you, and for what it's worth my respect to you fully.
 
Well, that you sir for posting your side of the argument in a mature way. At least people can see both sides and make a more informed decision before just taking things off that they have no clue about. :thumb:
 
I have one question if the egr and supporting solenoids are removed completely will this trip the cel to come on? For an obdII 2g.
 
Is this DSM tuners? That was the most civil and well spoken "argument" I have ever read on this forum. Those winey ricers never even tried to intervene! I'm putting both you guys on my buddy list :thumb:
 
Shadowfax said:
You can say putting inert gas into the mix will help your mileage- I'm gonna ask how? Better yet, I'm gonna make a bet that if you were to increase the inert gas mix 10 fold that your car wouldn't run. And if you decrease the inert gasses to nil, your car would have a more complete combustion- hotter temps in the cylinder, which would more completely burn both oxygen and the rest of the natural air mix. Isn't the point of the catalytic converter that the honeycomb metal has greater surface area, thus increasing the temps in the cat further burning unburnts? Wouldn't burning a greater amount in the combustion chamber accomplish the same thing?
Rule #3...your guess is wrong actually.

Oh and the intake mani gets dirty mostly from oil being recirculated into the intake tract. If you eliminate all that crap, things stay pretty clean in there.

You guys are fighting like little schoolgirls....I wonder if the EGR causes crankwalk? :laugh:
 
All I know is that I removed my emissions vaccum tubes, charcoal canister, etc. with out putting a EGR blockoff plate in, and my car is .5sec slower in the 1/4 mile and down a couple MPH. I'm not saying it's because the EGR is opening, but that's a theory. I guess I'll find out next year, when I have time to run the car again. :confused:
 
A previous owner pulled most of the emission lines off te engine in my '93 Talon. The EGR has the hoses off and nothing capped. What can this do? Cause knock in any way? I would like to get the EGR working again for the increase in mileage. I have the hoses. 2 with yellow stripes and 2 with blue stripes. I know the thermovalve is part of it. Can someone walk me through what i need to do to reinstall the hoses? Each pair has a fitting that places the 2 hoses into one port. I know they also go to the throttle body but what ports? If someone still has theirs intact please email me or reply here. Having the EGR there but not having the nipples capped has me questioning the effects this may have? Anyone know? Thanks, Mark
 
ok i put my egr valve back casue i was making me idle like shit so anyways my ques is know how our egr(2g) has 2 black hoses i just connected them together, is that right or do they actually go somewhere i ask this casue my CEL came on two days after i put the egr valve back?
thanks
 
Thans Defiant.I checked out that site yesterday. My sceen does ot have enough resolution to clearly see where the hoses go. ow about my EGR just having the nipples open and not capped. Any consequences from that? Mark
 
The EGR is bolted to the intake manifold. The nippls on the TB are capped. mark
 
i dont think u fully understood my ques maybe a 2g is diff on my egr it has 2 black rubber hoses do they go somewhere i just connected the 2 lines together?
 
Scroll back to the post Defiant gave. He has links to pics at taboo. They would go to the thermovalve and to the TB. Probly splitting to 4 hoses if they are like a 1G. Mark
 
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