EDZ Swap Checklist

[PuNkShoO]

This morning I decided that it was time to swap in the edz I've been wanting to do for about a year now since my motor will be coming out anyway. I've put together a list of things needed to build the block, and hopefully the head, and would love for one of the vets on here (and Ill post over on 2gnt as well) to assist me with the list and a few questions. I am scatter-brained and I have trouble processing too much data at a time (medical condition) and that is the primary reason for this list. Anyhow, here is the list:

Head:
Reconditioned 420a head w/ 1mm overbore + port/polish
36mm Valves (Crowers necessary?)
Titanium Retainers
New Guides
Springs (OEM?)
Stage 1 or 2 Cams (New Sprockets necessary?)
PT Cruiser Lifters & Rockers
Port/Polish OEM intake bored to match TB
60mm Throttle Body

Block:
EDZ Block w/ balance shaft delete & oil hole plugged
ARP Main/Head/Rod bolts
SRT/Turbo Cruiser Pistons/Rods (pistons rotated) + Rings/Bearings
Moddified 2.4 oil pan w/ downpipe clearance
Custom Crank Scraper
Moddified 1g/2g motor mount
Moddified PT Cruiser PS bracket
UDP

Misc
Gates Racing Timing Belt
Mechanical tension (2.4)
Water Pump
Oil Pump (necessary?)
New Pullies
*Battery relocate kit
*Turbo upgrade to come later

That's what I have so far. I am looking for a 350-400hp build but only going to be running N/A for the next few months while I decide whether or not Im satisfied with N/A and break the engine in. With that being said, are the SRT pistons sufficient for such a build? I have no desire for anything beyond those goals and I honestly think that much power will be enough to get used to since Im only running basic bolt-ons with the 420a right now. Also, this is going to be a DD the rest of the year most likely. Are the upgraded cams a little too aggressive for an N/A build? Anyway, let me know anything you have to contribute. I am using 2gnt's EDZ threads for my resources but I've been on tuners since I bought the RS so naturally Im here first.

 

[dsmcrzy]

Head:
Reconditioned 420a head w/ 1mm overbore + port/polish
36mm Valves (Crowers necessary?)
Titanium Retainers
New Guides
Springs (OEM?)
Stage 1 or 2 Cams (New Sprockets necessary?)
PT Cruiser Lifters & Rockers
Port/Polish OEM intake bored to match TB
60mm Throttle Body

As far as the head goes a stage 2 shouldn't be bad for the street.
Also you are going to get Ti retainers but OEM valve springs? Should be the other way around. Ti retainers aren't really needed for what you are looking to do.
I have found conflicting results of cam gears. Basically it comes down to the ability to mechanically adjusting timing. If you have a way to tune the car you shouldn't really need these.
Also look for 2.7L rockers they have better oiling than the PT version.

 

[PuNkShoO]

So I should skip the retainers and just go with oem springs and retainers? Or, if the other way around, what's a solid spring upgrade from OEM? Also, good call on the rockers. Is it safe to pull these from a yard?

 

[dsmcrzy]

Yes and no for the rockers just inspect them and make sure they are in good condition.

For the springs/retainers I meant get the crowed springs. OEM springs aren't strong enough for the upgraded cams.

 

[glowryder]

My recommendations

Head:
Reconditioned 420a head w/ 1mm overbore + port/polish
Crower springs with Titanium Retainers
New Guides
Crower 2's or crane 18s (New Sprockets necessary? No, but i recommend them.)
PT Cruiser Lifters & Rockers
Port/Polish OEM intake bored to match TB
60mm Throttle Body

block:
EDZ Block w/ balance shaft delete & oil hole plugged
ARP Main/Head/Rod bolts
SRT/Turbo Cruiser Pistons/Rods (pistons rotated) fine for your goal, but the low low CR will rob you of power..
Rings/Bearings
Moddified 2.4 oil pan w/ downpipe clearance
Custom Crank Scraper
Moddified 1g/2g motor mount or a custom one.
Moddified PT Cruiser PS bracket
UDP < Use stock.

Misc
Greddy Timing Belt < Exist? Gates will be fine..
Mechanical tension (2.4)
Water Pump
Oil Pump (necessary?)< depends on the oil pan design you go with.
New idlers
*Battery relocate kit
*Turbo upgrade to come later

do you plan to run the AC and PS?


Keep in mind, we also build these, if your interested

 

[PuNkShoO]

Derped on the Gates. Looking at turbo stuff too, . Thanks for going over that list for me, Glowryder. So with the SRT pistons what are we talking in terms of power? I know comp ratio is higher ratio higher power percentage over all. Is it a massive loss if I choose these over forged rods/pistons? I wanted to hit my mark but try to maintain as tight a budget as possible and nice cams are going to be one of the biggest setbacks. Especially if I have to put high end valves in. I suppose its for the better, though, so that I dont have to tear her down again when I decide to add boost. Keep in mind that this is purely a street build that will occasionally be used to the local track on test n' tune nights.

[Edit] Also, Ive not decided on the oil pan yet. SRT pans arent as available as I'd like so I'll most likely go with a stratus pan since that's what Im pulling the block from. I also have access to an edz cruiser pan. That's the same, right? Haven't really looked at it yet.

As for injectors, at this stage in the game are the mustang gt injectors too much for this build without turbo?

 

[glowryder]

You said the word "budget", so ill say just stick with the SRT pistons, because to tune for Higher Comp ratio, youll spend more cash. they will be fine for what you need.

Id say mod a stratus pan and do a remote oil filter setup right off the pan/pump.

As for injectors, Id get the stock 2.4s untill you go turbo. Ive never heard of anyone using mustang injectors.

 

[PuNkShoO]

I know it sounds odd but in several threads there are people using 96-99 GT injectors in their builds. I forget the flow but I figured those wouldn't be too hard to get my hands on. Ill stick to the plan with the low comp pistons (providing no additional overbore is needed on the block) and stock 2.4 injectors. Thanks for reassuring me with that. I hate to throw the budget word into this project but it came somewhat unexpectedly, unfortunately.

I also wanted to get your thoughts on the UDP. Is there an issue with adding the UDP at this stage in the game since I have the motor already out? I was under the impressing that poly mounts and a udp are one of the best upgrades you can get, not for HP, but for putting it to the ground with reduced power loss from the engine lurching.

 

[powellds2]

My recommendations

Head:
Reconditioned 420a head w/ 1mm overbore + port/polish
Crower springs with Titanium Retainers
New Guides
Crower 2's or crane 18s (New Sprockets necessary? No, but i recommend them.)
PT Cruiser Lifters & Rockers
Port/Polish OEM intake bored to match TB
60mm Throttle Body

block:
EDZ Block w/ balance shaft delete & oil hole plugged
ARP Main/Head/Rod bolts
SRT/Turbo Cruiser Pistons/Rods (pistons rotated) fine for your goal, but the low low CR will rob you of power..
Rings/Bearings
Moddified 2.4 oil pan w/ downpipe clearance
Custom Crank Scraper
Moddified 1g/2g motor mount or a custom one.
Moddified PT Cruiser PS bracket
UDP < Use stock.

Misc
Greddy Timing Belt < Exist? Gates will be fine..
Mechanical tension (2.4)
Water Pump
Oil Pump (necessary?)< depends on the oil pan design you go with.
New idlers
*Battery relocate kit
*Turbo upgrade to come later

do you plan to run the AC and PS?


Keep in mind, we also build these, if your interested

Wait a minute, you make an ac bracket? This is the only thing that's kept me from finishing my 2.4......

 

[glowryder]

we built 420a's and 2.4s . Im sure we could build a bracket if needed.

 

[PuNkShoO]

Read somewhere, here or 2gnt, that you can use the AC bracket from and SRT and run custom lines to your compressor. I still need to do some research on this, though. I live in Florida so having AC is almost a must. Was the only thing making me put it off. However, at this point I'd be okay without AC. Might change my mind come July/August, . And yes, I wanted to run AC & PS. Have had a hard time finding info to keep these items. Is it an issue with belts aligning or the ability to actually fit the hardware is the bay after the swap?

 

[glowryder]

That i dont know, Ive not done one where the owner wanted those things .

 

[Slo2gen]

If you use the Stratus oil pump(aka gooseneck) you will not be able to use a standard crank pulley. Most people recommend the srt oil set up, I am using a Stratus and haven't had an issue with it.

 

[PuNkShoO]

If you use the Stratus oil pump(aka gooseneck) you will not be able to use a standard crank pulley. Most people recommend the srt oil set up, I am using a Stratus and haven't had an issue with it.

What stops the use of a standard crank pulley with the stratus setup?

 

[Slo2gen]

What stops the use of a standard crank pulley with the stratus setup?

The pulley is too tall and hits the oil filter/housing if I remember correctly.

This should clear it up, if not I can go take a picture of it outside
http://autopartmaster.com/imgbank/cat/chrysler/image.asp@catid=A97&grpid=32&sgrpid=0000721

 

[PuNkShoO]

Got the motor pulled today. Things are moving along. I suppose I should start a build journal. So much more to go! Still need to locate a set of pistons and rods. I was hoping to find some clean used ones but I guess I might have to consider new. The mahle piston and rod combo on modern performance would be a direct fit on a 2.4 block that doesn't need to be bored over, right?

 

[glowryder]

You need to consult a machine shop with your block to decide if you need overbore. most are just so excited to do it rather then figure out if they need it or not. We can see if we can find a used set of SRT internals if your interested.

IDK if those MAHLEs are the same as a genuine set of SRT internals. May be something to look into.

 

[bullettdsm]

Just thought I'd throw alittle info on here for you or any searchers.

As for the springs; I'd recommend an upgrade to the springs but I see no reason that you would need titanium retainers. Nothing wrong with them, its just that these are more for when you are trying to squeak out the the last bit of extra ponies from a set-up. Not necessary but you are welcome to do it.

A "budget" upgrade to springs is using stock 4g63 springs. I have run these on many set-ups (as have others. basically been "tested in the field"). Here are some specs for you to look at (numbers courtesy of BogusSVO);


420A
41 @ 1.600 closed
105 @ 1.250 open

4G63T
66 @ 1.575 closed
160 @ 1.240 open

Though the spring compression crush heights aren't identical, you can see that the 4g63 spring is obviously a stronger spring stock than ours. And believe me, valve float is WAYYYYY overrated in our engines. I have yet to run into it and most people who claim they had it, well, they are either misinformed to their real problem or are basically full of baloney. But when you start running radical cams you will want the upgraded springs.

Here's some other info that can be helpful ;
2GNT.com - 2.4L_Discussion_by_Skrilla
(I don't know if this next one helps any. I just saw the earlier discussion about mounting etc. But I'll put this in for any searchers) 2GNT.com - 2.4_EDZ_Alternator_Mounting
(and here's another one for those that want the ARP hardware. I'm not saying you need it, but in case you do want it) 2GNT.com - 2.4_EDZ_ARP_Main_Studs

Just a little added info