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ebay boost controller same as brand name

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2DaTrakNow

15+ Year Contributor
265
7
Dec 20, 2005
hillsdale, Michigan
It doesnt look bad to me, it says you can get a refund as long as 5 days havnt passed. Its an in cabin boost controller so you wouldnt have to keep opening your hood to set it. I think its a hell of a deal.
 
Good luck with that. I tend to not trust ebay as a source of parts-too easy IMO to scam. However, my previous statement does not apply to reputable shops that put their things on ebay, as I've seen before. I'm sure this person your buying from has a solid feed back record.

So, yeah, I hope it goes well for you.:thumb:
 
Modified magazine did a whole spread on the eBay parts thing earlier this year around the time SEMA was going on. It showed how some companies even go to the extremes of machining the imperfections that the companies make when copy-cating their product.

The article said that although these products look EXACTLY the same (and then they showed a FAKE Greddy Type-S that looked so real you wouldn't believe it) that they have severely different performance outcomes.

I can only recommend you buy a boost controller from someone with good feedback.

Good luck with it all, it's just a gamble everytime. I've been lucky enough to get all good things from eBay.

-Alex :talon:
 
I have also, ive been ripped off once tho :( but its all good all the money I saved with the other products well exceeded the price I got ripped off by. Im just a guy looking for the cheapest way possible.
 
The ebay nxs ball and spring boost controller is great get it. Some products you don't want a cheap version of because of the complexity and r&d that goes into the product. A ball and spring boost controller isn"t one of those products. I use a real tial bov, and a turbosmart ultra gate wastegate, but an ebay boost controller. Why? Because bov's and wastegates are known to suck from ebay, but boost controllers are so simple they are hard to mess up.
 
I got mine from ebay and it works fine, although I'm not putting more than 15 psi either... If it doesn't work when the boost goes up then I didn't lose much, it was only $30 and am a loooong way from turning the boost up LOL...

A friend told me th if it's not workin then turn it around and try LOL, but I wouldn't do that unless your absolutetly sure you have everything hooked up the way it's supposed to be
 
NXS Motorsports one works great for me

I orderd the nxs one a while ago...should be here anyday now, Phil is a great guy to deal with, he'll give you the dsm tuner discount if you ask for it, I didnt know about it untill after I ordered it and I mentioned it in an email to them and phil replied back instantly saying he'll throw in vacuum hoses because i didnt get the discount, thats pretty kick ass in my opinion for customer service, and I have heard and read nothing but good things about the boost controller
 
yeah ebay parts are not exactally the same, otherwise they would get into legal trouble so something is always different about it. im sure you know all about ebay turbos....

Big difference between a turbo and a mbc. A turbo spins 150,000 rpm's, a ball and spring boost controler is, well a ball and a spring. Mine has worked up to 35 psi with a stiffer spring.
 
I don't see how you can screw up a ball and spring design.

I made mine for less than 6bucks. Sure brass isnt the prettiest thing but It's connected under my jpipe so you can't even see it anyways.

I'd be hesistant to buy a bleeder MBC period. Doesnt matter if it's from ebay or from any reptuable company. Simply put: it's design makes it less consistent than ball and spring.

Last I'd like to emplore you not to get the in-cabin controller. You add the risk of boost spiking by increasing the distance. I mean you add 2/3 feet maybe more or less for something that most people run like 4inches on. (electronic controllers don't count)
 
I don't see how you can screw up a ball and spring design.

I made mine for less than 6bucks. Sure brass isnt the prettiest thing but It's connected under my jpipe so you can't even see it anyways.

I'd be hesistant to buy a bleeder MBC period. Doesnt matter if it's from ebay or from any reptuable company. Simply put: it's design makes it less consistent than ball and spring.

Last I'd like to emplore you not to get the in-cabin controller. You add the risk of boost spiking by increasing the distance. I mean you add 2/3 feet maybe more or less for something that most people run like 4inches on. (electronic controllers don't count)

I agree with this guy....I'd go with the brass one from nxs as stated above, there are more than enough people that have said good things about and its cheap, long hoses on the in cabin "T" style are not worth the spiking...plus you can hook the brass one up in less than 10 min and it will work great
 
just pay attention to your boost under high rpms, one of my friends had a cheap BC, and i guess the boost spiked and his crank is in 3 pieces and threw the block.
 
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