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ECMlink dsmlink knock help

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xlevanx

15+ Year Contributor
77
3
Dec 28, 2006
Manahawkin, New Jersey
I have a 91 gsx and I'm using dsmlink v2.5. I'm new to tuning so need someone to look at my log and help me get rid of some knock. I had none just running off wastegate pressure about 15 psi but now i turned the boost up to 24psi and its getting some counts. I got it down alot but still have some issues. AFR is btween 10-11.

If needed mods are ported 20g, ported 2g exhaust mani, 3 inch turboback, 680cc injectors, comp cams 101200 (272 equivalents), GM maf and maft, walboro 255, front mount, crushed 1g bov, aem uego wideband. Think thats all u need.


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Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 

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I cant see the log here but you might b reaching the limits of pump gas at that boost so b careful!
 
I used to run the same setup same boost level without the cams and on a safc. And car ran good with good AFR. With that said though I couldnt see how much knock without the dsmlink. Car pulls hard now just have to get rid of this knock and yea sorry I'm still using v2.5 previous owner did not give me the info and I cant use the link forums.

ECMTuning, Inc.

thats the download for v2.5 for anyone that can help me to be able to look at mine is free and only takes a sec. Thanks guys
 
Post a log in a Elg format so people that know logs can open the file

I used to run the same setup same boost level without the cams and on a safc. And car ran good with good AFR. With that said though I couldnt see how much knock without the dsmlink. Car pulls hard now just have to get rid of this knock and yea sorry I'm still using v2.5 previous owner did not give me the info and I cant use the link forums.

ECMTuning, Inc.

thats the download for v2.5 for anyone that can help me to be able to look at mine is free and only takes a sec. Thanks guys

If you send an email with your name and dsmlink serial number to the support team "contact us" at http://www.dsmlink.com/forums/register.php?do=signup they will set you up with an account for the forums on the site. Thats how I did it

P.s serial number can be seen when you connect your ecu to the program <<< Edit: V3 only, sorry about that
 
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If you send an email with your name and dsmlink serial number to the support team "contact us" at ECMTuning User Support Forums they will set you up with an account for the forums on the site. Thats how I did it

P.s serial number can be seen when you connect your ecu to the program



Thanks I'll have to try that out
 
Thanks I'll have to try that out

V1/V2 Transfer (3rd party sale)


The following is provided as a resource to use while collecting information to register a copy of DSMLink. We will need to know the following:
&#9632;
DSMLink chip ID

&#9632;
New owner's full name

&#9632;
New owner's e-mail address

&#9632;
Requested user ID for the forums


The DSMLink chip ID is a four-digit number printed after the word DSMLink on the EPROM chip inside the ECU. It's also printed on the outside of the black protective box the package originally shipped in. You can see examples of this 4-digit number below (1307, 2307, 3307).



Once you have that information, just e-mail us and we'll get an account created for you.

[email protected]
 
Been trying for hours to change my .dat file to Elg no luck though....
 
You can't convert the file.

You say you turned the boost up to 24 psi, but the BoostEst is showing 46 psi and flowing almost 60 lbs/min. Your MAF Comp sliders definitely need tuned.

After adjusting the properties for AFRatioEst, it seems you're running about 15:1 AFR. This is insanely lean for a WOT pull. Is this what your AEM gauge was reading?

This also isn't a real pull since you weren't at 100% WOT.


My recommendations:
-download the v3 software and use that from now on
-get the car up to temp and grab an idle log, making sure to have the following values captured and displayed:
  • ISCPosition
  • CombinedFT
  • All LTFT values
  • STFT
  • wideband (this requires wiring it into an ECU input)
-don't go WOT any more until we get a better look at the car and logs
 
The AEM gauge was reading between 10-11. I'll get an idle log up tommorow and yea I have to work on getting V3.
 
Its a matter of running the 1g timing maps vise the 2g timing maps, you can't run that much boost and get away with it. DSM's in general make more power by running the most amount of boost your specific setup can handle, for you the stock head bolts are limiting the amount of boost you can get away with, then advancing timing until you start seeing knock.

Since you've got v2.5 you can't get into direct access and change the timing table directly, you'll have to use your sliders to get it close to what a 2g's timing table looks like. Use this ---> DSMWiki: 2g timing in a 1g ECU

After you do this, I'd keep boost around 21-22psi with those stock head bolts.

:dsm:
 
Just went out front and grabbed a log of it idling


Its a matter of running the 1g timing maps vise the 2g timing maps, you can't run that much boost and get away with it. DSM's in general make more power by running the most amount of boost your specific setup can handle, for you the stock head bolts are limiting the amount of boost you can get away with, then advancing timing until you start seeing knock.

Since you've got v2.5 you can't get into direct access and change the timing table directly, you'll have to use your sliders to get it close to what a 2g's timing table looks like. Use this ---> DSMWiki: 2g timing in a 1g ECU

After you do this, I'd keep boost around 21-22psi with those stock head bolts.

Thanks for the info I'll lower the boost some and change the timing. Should I do another pull and see what happens?
 

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Before you do anything else:
1. Download and install this file - http://www.ecmtuning.com/downloads/install/setup_3_22_172_full.exe
2. Download and install this file - http://www.ecmtuning.com/downloads/prerelease/setup_3_24_70_update.exe
3. Don't ever use v2.5 to log again.
4. Watch every video posted here...three times - ECMTuning, Inc.


Based on that idle log, it needs work. You're seeing AirflowPerRev values of, on average, .34 when they should be around .25. To set this and get your fuel trims in check, reference video #8 in the link I provided above and replicate the steps on your car.

Your TPS also needs adjusted as it's reading .8v at idle. To fix this, check out this link - v3tpsadj [ECMTuning - wiki]

No more pulls until you get the idle dialed in and we make sure the timing values are set appropriately.
 
You guys are awesome thanks just downloaded all that gonna watch all those videos and see what I can do. The sad thing is this was a proffessional tune I got from turbo trix and payed for with dyno pulls almost a year ago. Car just has been broke and finally got ambition to make it right.

Ok downloaded ecmlink, watched the demos and got my idle all in check as per the demos. I changed my timing to the 2g timing in a 1g and decided to make a pull to see what is happening now. Lots of knock so this is where i need help. The demo says to pull some timing. For some reason my ECU direct access is not working but I can change timing in the regular settings. Would like some input now that I'm in elg format maybe you guys can set me straight.
 

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I would lower the boost down to like 18.

Once you have the boost down, if you still have knock, look at your air fuel (assuming you have a wideband); on pump gas you want to be in the 10.8-11.4 range.

First try richening it up to about 10.5 max. If you are still knocking, then most likely it's rich knock; so lean it out to 11.2 ish and the knock should go down or disappear.

If not, you have to look into lowering the timing some more I guess.

Baby steps!
 
Just for verification sake, please add ISCPosition and monitor that next time you check out your idle. This should be at 30.

Good job on getting the idle dialed in.


As for the pulls, here is what I would do. I would start over with fuel and airflow. Zero everything out and restart. 11&#176; of knock is just insane. I'm thinking that you're way too lean at WOT (conclusion based on AFRatioEst and front o2 reading).


My suggested next steps:
1. Get wideband input to ECU and logged in link. Here's info on what inputs you have available:
externalsensorinput [ECMTuning - wiki]
2. Make sure to get the logged wideband value reading the same as the gauge. AEM's are notorious for causing issues, so here's 2 videos that should do a great job on helping you get around that.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-tuning-ecu/428702-ecmlink-linear-wb-calibration.html
3. Zero out fuel and MAF Comp sliders (not including the ones you touched to get idle dialed in).
4. Take 3rd gear pull from 2k to redline.
5. Post up for review and feedback.
 
I lowered the boost and pulled some timing got rid of almost all of it. Take a look you still think I should be adding fuel? Car seems to run strong and blows no smoke. Also i'll look into the aem wideband figuring that out. While under WOT it says im running between 10-11 which means im on the richer side rather than lean? Also ecmlink says im running crazy boost when my boost gauge spikes to 24 falls and holds at 21.
 

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As I stated before, when doing 3rd gear pulls, just do the pull in 3rd gear and go from 2k to redline. Doing a 1-3 or 2-3 pull isn't as helpful as you're missing some data in the lower RPM range.

Knock looks much better!

Yes, the boost is going to be off as you don't have any MAF Comp calibration done. We'll be able to take care of this once you get the wideband logged.

Another thing you'll want to do is double click on the AFRatioEst value and set the appropriate fuel injector properties in there. This way it will read much more accurately than it is now.

Your IDC %'s look high, but they should drop once we get the MAF Comp sliders calibrated.
 
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Thanks for all the great info i'll post back once I get my wideband set up with link. Learned alot in just a short amount of time. And i'll start doing just third gear pulls from now on.
 
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