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DSM Down for tha count! only boost 3 lbs and huge oil leak

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Spoolin4Ever

15+ Year Contributor
1,142
14
Apr 24, 2005
Moses Lake, Washington
Yeah I had noticed some ticking sounds when idling and driving at different RPMs a couple weeks ago but it came and went.

So the other night I went to the store, noticing the car would only boost 3 lbs., idle up and down a bit. I figured it was the turbo, and I would check it the next day for shaft play. I gently drove it home, about a mile.

Parked it and a few hours later, noticed a pool of oil under the car.

Checked the level and it was down a half quart.

So upon inspection, none coming from the valve cover or the upper timing cover.

There IS oil on the timing belt. Non on back of block that i can see. None on oil filter housing. Yes on oil pan and cross member/frame.

Pics attached...

Additional updates/notes:
Recent head and timing belt, waterpump is low miles, pullies in timing area are also fairly new. BS shafts removed. This engine had been rebuilt but I bet it has 100K on it since then.
 

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Take your lower timing cover off and inspect the timing side of the motor. It could be your oil pump gasket.
 
Ok....if that's it or if it is front cover related, can I do that with the engine in the car?

take the lower timing cover off? yes. do you have a manual? look in the timing belt section on how to remove and install a timing belt. it will show you all the 10mm bolts there are. Support the engine with a wood block on a jack and remove the motor mount bracket next to the timing belt/cover, takes me like 20-30 mins to do.

P.s don't worry about getting the bolt below the water pump back in, its just a waste of time and effort, better to just leave it out unless you want to try to put it back in. I always remembered that one being a PIA
 
take the lower timing cover off? yes. do you have a manual? look in the timing belt section on how to remove and install a timing belt. it will show you all the 10mm bolts there are. Support the engine with a wood block on a jack and remove the motor mount bracket next to the timing belt/cover, takes me like 20-30 mins to do.

P.s don't worry about getting the bolt below the water pump back in, its just a waste of time and effort, better to just leave it out unless you want to try to put it back in. I always remembered that one being a PIA

No I meant the front cover/oil pump gasket. Can that be done with the engine in the car? I've done the tbelt yeah.
 
Either the balance shaft blockoff plug blew out, or you have a serious crank seal / oil pump seal leak there. Could also be centralized in the area of the filter housing- look for loose fittings or a leaking oil pressure sender.
 
Either the balance shaft blockoff plug blew out, or you have a serious crank seal / oil pump seal leak there. Could also be centralized in the area of the filter housing- look for loose fittings or a leaking oil pressure sender.

Yes i checked the oil pressure sender it was tight. Note that also the car only would boost to 3psi (that just happened along with this in correlation). I checked the turbo and there is no shaft play, also no excessive smoke.

So whatever this is caused poor performance AND an oil leak at the same time.
 
So it is either the BS shaft seal, cranksahft seal, or oil pump seal.

Can all these be done without removing the front cover and engine in the car?

They can all be replaced without removing the front cover and yes, with the engine in the car... But it won't be fun.
Pull the left wheel and splash guard like you would for a timing belt and get a block and jack under the oil pan to move the motor around. The rest is straightforward, just be prepared to squeeze yourself into contorted positions to get the seal(s) in.
 
Hey I got a drill and the bit to put a 14MM socket on it to turn over the oil pump, to find the leak source with all timing covers removed of course.

Problem is, I turn it over with the drill, but no oil is leaking. How long should I have to spin the oil pump with the drill before it makes oil pressure and leaks out?

Right not it's almost a quart low from when it blew the leak. I guess adding a quart would make it easier to leak out the seal? I just don't have a quart of oil to thow in it but I will buy one if it would really make a difference. Would it do you think?

Thanks!
 
You would probably have to get the engine up to operating temp so the oil will warm up. Cold oil doesn't leak as easy as hot oil.
 
Well the timing belt got oil all over it so I wonder how risky it would be. I mean I eventually pulled the belt and cleaned it dry but it got oil soaked, I believe it all happened in one day, and I think I yanked the belt about a week or so after it happened so it's pretty soaked in there.

i can buy a new belt, but that means I'd get oil on the new belt and ruin that too.

Other option is to just change all 3 seals but what if it ain't them, that would also suck.
I wonder if the belt can be used just to start it and let it idle long enough for it to leak?

Another problem is as soon as it leaks it gets on the belt getting on all the timing gears making it again hard to tell where it came from. But I suppose if i watch it while it's turning over and where protective goggles while doing so to keep oil out of my eyes it might be doable.

What do you think?

They can all be replaced without removing the front cover and yes, with the engine in the car... But it won't be fun.
Pull the left wheel and splash guard like you would for a timing belt and get a block and jack under the oil pan to move the motor around. The rest is straightforward, just be prepared to squeeze yourself into contorted positions to get the seal(s) in.

Yeah I have it all apart and the jack under the engine, timing covers off, etc.

what if i drain the oil and put transmission fluid in it and turn it with the drill? Since it's thinner would that work?

Or should I just change all 3 seals? If I do all 3 should I pull the fron case or not?
 
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