Draining Clutch Fluid

[ChiGGz]

Every post I read on clutch fluid talks about bleeding the air out.

Can someone explain how to drain the slave and master?
Where does the old fluid exit from?

To bleed the master you simply do the same thing as slave but make sure the resevoir is topped off correct?

Thanks guys.

 

[Dream On]

Here.

http://www.plymouthlaser.com/slave2.htm

If you want to get all of the fluid out, then just disconnect one of the hard lines going to the slave (probably want to use a flaring wrench), which will help it drain out faster. Top of the master and bleed it more than you think is enough. Use the method above for bleeding.

 

[ChiGGz]

Here.

http://www.plymouthlaser.com/slave2.htm

If you want to get all of the fluid out, then just disconnect one of the hard lines going to the slave (probably want to use a flaring wrench), which will help it drain out faster. Top of the master and bleed it more than you think is enough. Use the method above for bleeding.

Cool. Now the link shows them using a little container to keep the air out.
Do you squirt out to the same bottle or a different one and switch back to the clean container when you lift the pedal up?

 

[Auto RS T]

The new brake fluid bottle should only be used for keeping the master cylinder full while bleeding. Don't let the fluid drop below level when bleeding or it will suck air.

The small container that is used to catch the fluid is only for catching the fluid. They put the new fluid in there and submerged the hose so air could not work its way back to the slave through the hose.

If you use a clear hose you can actually see the air coming out along with the fluid. Once you don't get any more air, you should be done.

 

[Dream On]

Make sure when draining the old fluid out that you clean up the reservoir for the master cylinder. Mine had chunks/particles of stuff in there when I put on a new slave. And just like Auto RS T said, put in new fluid in the container when bleeding so you have nothing but fresh fluid in the system.

 

[twicks69]

I have actually done a clutch "flush" a nifty different way.

It involves purchasing a Speed Bleeder (for brakes), and replacing the bleeder screw on the slave cylinder with the speed bleeder. Then, it becomes a one man job if you want it to. All you have to do is open the bleeder (loosen it one to two turns from fully tight) and then you are able to continuously press the clutch down (with it able to maintain pressure to come back up), while keeping your clutch master cylinder reservoir topped off with fresh fluid.

I usually just take a 20oz plastic bottle, pop a hole in the cap and install a 2ft section of clear poly tubing from the bleeder nipple to the bottle. Then you have a contained, cheap bleeder bottle, and an easy way to bleed your clutch.

When you are all done, you just tighten up the speed bleeder (making sure not to overtighten it) -- it is just a spring-loaded ball-check-valve that has a compression fitting on the inside of it (reason why you don't want to overtighten it -- you can crush the fitting).


Prior to bleeding, I suck out all the old fluid from the master cylinder reservoir using a battery filler or turkey baster, and filling it with fresh fluid.

Be sure to use a quality brake fluid, such as Valvoline Synthetic Brake Fluid. It is not neccessary to use anything like Motul 600, Wilwood 570, etc. Especially do NOT use any type of Silicone based brake fluid (such as Motul XRP) -- it is not compatible with regular brake fluids.

 

[Defiant]

For the clutch, it's just as well to stay with DOT 3 or 4. It's not dealing with heat like brakes are.