The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

drag test with new clutch/transmission?

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

93AWDDSM

10+ Year Contributor
883
40
Jan 1, 2009
Vancouver, Washington
just got my transmission back from Jacks and its great, new oem exedy clutch/PP and all is good. I would like to test for drag @ 7000-7200 rpm. Would this be acceptable on both of those new parts with less than 20 miles on them?

thanks
 
IMO the sooner the better. It won't take long for a dragging clutch to start wearing away at those new synchro's you just had put in. A drag test is one of the very first things i do after new clutch/clutch components.
 
thanks for the reply, I will go ahead and do that then.

edit: did drag test, 1st gear all the way to 7200 and it didn't budge. thinking i have some air in the lines pedal seems slightly slow return with overall softness.
 
Last edited:
as stated above, I did the 1st gear, rev test and it didn't move at all.

I do have a few questions though.
1st, even though I can get into gear easily and am able to push the slave rod in by hand(master adjusted correctly) my pedal is slightly softer and returns a little bit slower, not sure If I'm not used to it? or if it sitting pulled apart for 2 months somehow encouraged air to enter the slave line? (stock exedy clutch/PP and oem TOB) - I did replace the rear main seal and I currently see no leaks.

2nd, I can hear my TOB slightly chirping and if I push my clutch pedal down maybe 1/2"-1" it goes away. would this be bad for daily driver? (fork is leaning towards the driver side, pivot ball had a flat washer installed behind it)

thanks in advance.
 
as stated above, I did the 1st gear, rev test and it didn't move at all.

I do have a few questions though.
1st, even though I can get into gear easily and am able to push the slave rod in by hand(master adjusted correctly) my pedal is slightly softer and returns a little bit slower, not sure If I'm not used to it? or if it sitting pulled apart for 2 months somehow encouraged air to enter the slave line? (stock exedy clutch/PP and oem TOB) - I did replace the rear main seal and I currently see no leaks.

2nd, I can hear my TOB slightly chirping and if I push my clutch pedal down maybe 1/2"-1" it goes away. would this be bad for daily driver? (fork is leaning towards the driver side, pivot ball had a flat washer installed behind it)

thanks in advance.

Bleed the lines(correctly). Do you still have the factory rubber line from the fender to the slave? Do you have an aftermarket master or OEM? A chirping/squeaking TOB usually means it's on the way out. If it's a metal sleeved aftermarket unit they can sometimes gouge the input sleeve(TOB retainer.. whatever you want to call it). The fact that you have a washer behind the pivot ball probably means the flywheel is not cut to the correct step height for the clutch assembly but you don't have a dragging issue so i wouldn't be too concerned with it. Do you have a return spring on the clutch pedal? Check the rubber boots on your master/slave for any leaking fluid.
 
Bleed the lines(correctly). Do you still have the factory rubber line from the fender to the slave?yes Do you have an aftermarket master or OEM?aftermarket from English racing a local company well known to DSMs A chirping/squeaking TOB usually means it's on the way out(it's a brand new OEM TOB) If it's a metal sleeved aftermarket unit they can sometimes gouge the input sleeve(TOB retainer.. whatever you want to call it). The fact that you have a washer behind the pivot ball probably means the flywheel is not cut to the correct step height for the clutch assembly(It had the shim under pivot ball from before the clutch job, I also did get the flywheel resurfaced to the correct step height) but you don't have a dragging issue so i wouldn't be too concerned with it. Do you have a return spring on the clutch pedal? Not sure on this currently Check the rubber boots on your master/slave for any leaking fluid.

will start checking stuff monday. I don't have much time because of working weird hours and the fact that my motor is a dying one pretty soon.:notgood:
 
Last edited:
EDIT: checked today saw no leaks, but I'm really thinking the clutch fork is to far towards the driver side now because of the shim...even though it doesn't drag, I can hear the tob in the car like a cricket kinda, and I went under with it running almost felt like the TOB was right on the fingers of the pressure plate. Not sure how bad that could be?
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Latest Classifieds

  • For sale 2g 2G Mishimoto Radiator & Fan Shroud
    2G Mishimoto Radiator & Fan Shroud $200 + shipping and paypal feesYou must be registered to...
    • jersygsx
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 2g 2G Power Window Switches ( tested and hardware included )
    2G Power Window Switches $55 + shipping and paypal fees* Tested 6/2/26 * Hardware included *...
    • jersygsx
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale VIRGIN 4G63 6-BOLT TURBO HEAD
    Came off a virgin stock AWD Auto 1G DMS (91), also have matching block and crank which are also...
    • The_Partout_Spot
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 1G DSM 4G63 6-BOLT TIMING COVER
    Used, see condition in photos. Buyer covers shipping / fees.
    • The_Partout_Spot
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale Garage clean out
    Changing setups on the car and getting rid of some stuff as well that's been laying around. Will...
    • 92GSXtacy
    • Updated:
    • Expires
Back
Top