Doing t-belt without the tool?

[fwdeclipse]

I am just wondering what the procedure to tension the belt is without the tool. If anyone could give me a brief explanation that would be great. I am installing my new bc 272s tomorrow and want to make sure I do it right. Thanks for any help.

 

[90laserRSfwd]

What tool? the tool that "tensions" the timing belt? The one that looks like a foot long bolt ?

 

[turboglenn]

All i do is before pulling the pin, I take a 90* pick and pull the eccentric pully to where it puts as much tension as i can add by hand and tighten it up. Then when i pull the grenade pin, it's always within spec using the drill bit measurement technique.

IT's is really nice to have a helper to hold the cam gears or whatever you need held while setting it up too.

If there's any part oft he procedure on putting the belt on you need to know about go to vfaq.com and lok it up, there's a ton of write ups full of pics and diagrams there if you haven't been there before

 

[Ravenous]

I use an allen wrench(short side in pulley hole) and vice grips to pull the pulley taught and then tighten the bolt. Its worked for me the three times I've had to remove the belt

 

[Savage Talon]

I use the drill bit technique. Then pull the pin.

 

[Lonnie gandee]

Make sure you let your lifters bleed properly before you turn it over!!!

After the cam install.

I actually install the tensioner first, then adjust the tensioner pulley...Its backwards i know, but it works just the same..

 

[JusMX141]

It doesn't sound to me like he's removing the entire belt.....I think he's asking if he can swap cams without the long threaded tensioner tool to collapse the tensioner.

The answer is no.

 

[90laserRSfwd]

what are you asking EXACTLY ?

 

[DirtyBirdRacing]

Hi,

Are you asking sbout the long threaded rod tool, or the tool that you are suppose to use to put torque on the tensioner pulley/belt before you tighten down the tensioner pulley bolt (figure 20 of this write up http://www.vfaq.com/mods/timingbelt-2G.html)?

Bill

 

[fwdeclipse]

I was talking about the long threade rod. Also what do you mean by letting the lifters bleed properly. I was reading my chiltons manual and it says if installing new cams to remove the rockers and make sure the cams move and then re install them. I am a bit confused by that.

 

[JusMX141]

You absolutely need the long threaded rod to do the job....I don't know of any other way possible to collapse the auto-tensioner and loosen the timing belt without it.

Just rememeber that it's going to take a long time to thread the rod into the hole by hand....it has to pass through the bracket and clear about an inch or more before it actually makes contact with the tensioner arm. Once the rod seems like it's trying to stop turning, DON'T force it. You can damage the auto-tensioner as a result.

 

[fwdeclipse]

Wow I did not think it was a must. I did my first talon like 5 years ago with out it but I sold the car soon after and dont know if it lasted. Well I guess I need to try and find one then. Why cant I just loosen the tensioner pully and loosen it that way?

 

[moto x]

Are you changing the cam gears to. Or are you just swaping them.If you are swaping them just do like this

 

[JusMX141]

Why cant I just loosen the tensioner pully and loosen it that way?

As soon as you loosen the eccentric tensioner pulley, the auto-tensioner is going to push the entire way out....and good luck getting that pushed back in without a threaded rod!

 

[blcknspo0ln]

As soon as you loosen the eccentric tensioner pulley, the auto-tensioner is going to push the entire way out....and good luck getting that pushed back in without a threaded rod!

That's true, but I've done several timing belt jobs and although I have the threaded rod, I rarely ever use it.

If you have the threaded tool, use that to compress the tensioner, but turn it slowly so you don't risk breaking the tool. If you don't it available, take the 2 (or 3, depending on year) 12mm bolts out of the AUTOTENSIONER BODY from the front case and remove the autotensioner. Take a big C-clamp and put the body and begin to tighten. Once you have it snug, only turn it HALF A TURN every 5 minutes or so. This is a long and tedious procedure, but it ensures that you do not bust the seal on the autotensioner. If you tighten the Cclamp to fast, you will cause liquid to come out of the seal and the autotensioner is ruined. Once the rod is within spec, just take a small hex key (I used a small diameter nail) and put it in there to hold the rod in place, like the original grenade pin it comes with. Once the rod is positioned properly, you can proceed to the timing portion of the install as normal.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...l-installing-timing-timing-belt-6bolt-2g.html