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doing all body work yourself

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Single-stage: Typically the easiest because you mix the activator in and your done. You will not get the show quality shine from a single stage though. Shiny but not liquid. Especially if your doing it on the black TSi. Black sucks because it will show any and all imperfections.
Sealer: Any will do, go the local body shop and get their recommendation. I have bought paint in three different states and have never got the same brand. It depends on what the shop sells. Your going to put about 3 coats primer on the whole car and an additional 2 coats on any bare metal and "Bondo" spots. When finished, you'll need to wet sand with 1500/2000 grit to knock off dust and stray bugs. Prep, Prep, Prep!!!
Side Skirts: Window sealer(++++) works real well or body trim molding tape(++). I would stay away from rivets or any thing like that.
Type of paint: I use a two-stage Urethane
 
Looks good. I just got stationed at Fort Bragg, NC and not sure what the VOC regulations are here. I was stationed at Fort Jackson, SC where there were basically none. BUT, I just came from Fort Irwin, CA where the VOC rules were outragous. If your doing a garage paint job, you shouldn't have to worry about it.

I checked my fav Ebay sellers, none sell single stage paint. Just remember, your paint job is determined by how well the prep work is done. Million dollar paint won't cover up mediocre prep work.
 
Does anybody know of a putty or filler material that would work well for this kind of application? Does Bondo or fiberglass filler work well on plastic? Does it apply and shape easily enough to do the trick on the DSM mirrors?

Short strand fiber glass filler works good on plastic. Make sure the area is scuffed up with 100/120 grit sand paper for the fiberglass to stick to.
 
On reapplying door trim:

If your door has the rubbery molded plastic stripe across it and it's coming off, mark the position on the door before pulling it all the way off. It'll make it a snap to get it glued on straight.

About the doors, though, I've seen what these rubber molded plastic stripes look like when they've been pulled off the doors and they look like they'll never look right if a person just glues them back on. They look distorted. How do you guys get them off of the door without ruining them, and how do you pull & glue them nice and tight on to the door again? Is it easier than I think it looks?

My 1G Talon TSI has fiberglass stripe trim door pieces that snap into square holes in the door, making it impossible to get it wrong, thank God.
 
1) take off the trim pieces.
2)clean everything after washing the car, clean with a auto degreaser.ppg.
3) sand the whole car with 320 wet. so the primer will bite, otherwise you will have flaking and peeling
4) perform any repairs needed. There is a cheaper way around plug welding. such as fiberglass, patch rivet metal.
5)Plastic repairs require a special epoxy repair kit.
6) after everything is repaired, use a primer sealer, 2 coats. wetsand with 320
7) use a polyester highbuild primer, 3 coats, wetsand with 320 wet again.
8) use a regular primer, non high build. 2 coats. Wetsand with 400 you want the paint to bite, use 600 if your using a metalic color.
9) clean and tack cloth everything.
10) paint and primer your plastics , you have to use a flexing agent.
11) spray your color, 3 coats, allow flash time, spray your clear. different tempertures and humiditys will cause color shading
12) a month after your clear hardens, wetsand with 1000, 1200, 1500, 2000, 2500, 3000, then buff and wax and polish.
 
i did 6 paint jobs myself 5 were hok kandy.the first one had streaks in it and the clear was a lil dull. the next one was hok candy apple red no streaks glass like clear and thats how every paint job came out after.it takes pratice thats it and check out youtube for how to videos.i can put down a flawless kandy job and all i did was pratice in my garage.paint cost is usually between 500 and 1200.best hobby i ever had.and as for painting an old paint job id use 360 grit than seal and paint or 180 prime 360 to 600 than seal and paint.as far as dent dont try to get them out in one shot of bondo put on a thin layer and sand with 80 than a second layer than 80 than a 3rd it needed or use 180 than 360-600.base coat id put 2-3 light coats on lighter colors that more coats to cover.get a seal close to the color of the base coat you useing or tint it.clear make sure you gun pater is 6 inches and ya guns 6 inces away spran on a light tack coat let it flash than a med coat let that flash than a heavy coat but not so heavy that it runs.wet sand with 1500 than 2000 puff polish wax after 30 days and your done.just dont think you gonna get a great paint job your 1st time its not gonna happen pratice on motorcycle parts thats what helped me alot
 
i did 6 paint jobs myself 5 were hok kandy.the first one had streaks in it and the clear was a lil dull. the next one was hok candy apple red no streaks glass like clear and thats how every paint job came out after.it takes pratice thats it and check out youtube for how to videos.i can put down a flawless kandy job and all i did was pratice in my garage.paint cost is usually between 500 and 1200.best hobby i ever had.and as for painting an old paint job id use 360 grit than seal and paint or 180 prime 360 to 600 than seal and paint.as far as dent dont try to get them out in one shot of bondo put on a thin layer and sand with 80 than a second layer than 80 than a 3rd it needed or use 180 than 360-600.base coat id put 2-3 light coats on lighter colors that more coats to cover.get a seal close to the color of the base coat you useing or tint it.clear make sure you gun pater is 6 inches and ya guns 6 inces away spran on a light tack coat let it flash than a med coat let that flash than a heavy coat but not so heavy that it runs.wet sand with 1500 than 2000 puff polish wax after 30 days and your done.just dont think you gonna get a great paint job your 1st time its not gonna happen pratice on motorcycle parts thats what helped me alot

Wow.WTF Sure looks like there is some pretty good info and instructions in there, but frankly it took me over 2 minutes to get past the second row of non-punctuated dribble that seems to form one massive run on. Maybe you could edit this for a person who would like to read it and refer to it later down the line, such as myself?
 
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