Do the front cross members offer rigidity?

[Ludachris]

Basically, all you need to do is triangulate any and all points of importance, including mounting points. Take the front crossmember that I made for example. I had to build a jig that precisely defined the outer mounting points in correlation to the location of the front motor mount. In a sense, once the jig is complete, fabricating the final piece is basically just like connecting the dots.

To build a jig, you basically just want to build around a completed piece. I used the factory crossmember to build my jig for my chromoly piece.

I'm a visual person - do you have pics of that jig Paul? Nice work by the way.

Anyone else have pics of some jigs?

On a side note, to anyone thinking about TIG welders, I know they've historically been really expensive, but Miller just came out with a new "hobbyist" AC/DC TIG welder (that can weld both steel and aluminum) that costs roughly $1300 - I've found a few places selling it for under that price online. It's called the Diversion 165. Still not as affordable as a MIG obviously, but those who've been looking at AC/DC TIG welders know that that is less than half the price of what most AC/DC systems have been going for up until this one came out. I'm trying to sell a few more parts here in the classifieds so that I can put my order in. Can't wait!

 

[v413nc3]

Guys, I have all the tubulars already done on my 2G. I can have them made for a 1G if you just want to buy them. Chris you got to peek at the rear K in my car. It's all top notch made by a shop that knows what they're doing. And they're braced quite well. If you have a 2G and want to spend the money, PM me and I'll get you what you want. If you have a 1G I can always talk to Chris about getting the factory pieces to my guy to have him fab up what you need.

 

[99gst_racer]

Chris, I just checked my PC at home, and I'm surprised to find that I've never taken a picture of the jig that I made. Give me a few days, and I'll get you a picture of one of the crossmembers bolted up to the jig.

Ohh, and thanks for the info on that Miller. I'll look into it. Just might have to massage one into my tight budget.

 

[Slippi84]

Now all wee need to do is get someone to rig up a tubular K member section that it's just for autoX guys. The drag racing minded dsm owner just wants something that is stiff and lighter than stock and will take up less room. I know jake had a setup that obviously worked out good but I can't seem to find any in dept pictures of his except for one angle that shows the front bar and a connection going from the front bar to the lower control arm.

 

[Ludachris]

Now all wee need to do is get someone to rig up a tubular K member section that it's just for autoX guys. The drag racing minded dsm owner just wants something that is stiff and lighter than stock and will take up less room. I know jake had a setup that obviously worked out good but I can't seem to find any in dept pictures of his except for one angle that shows the front bar and a connection going from the front bar to the lower control arm.

The problem is they'll be expensive - think $1k to $1500 due to all the welds that need to be done. I don't know that it's realistic to see them available from someone unless it's a custom job like what Jake had done on his 2G. Hopefully I'm wrong.

 

[Ludachris]

Guys, I have all the tubulars already done on my 2G. I can have them made for a 1G if you just want to buy them. Chris you got to peek at the rear K in my car. It's all top notch made by a shop that knows what they're doing. And they're braced quite well. If you have a 2G and want to spend the money, PM me and I'll get you what you want. If you have a 1G I can always talk to Chris about getting the factory pieces to my guy to have him fab up what you need.

I've seen Jake's rear K-member on his 2G - really nice. A little out of my budget though from what I remember. Maybe I'll eventually get to the point where I can make my own...

Jake, can't wait to see the car this season at the new road course. I really need to get working on my projects.

 

[Slippi84]

The problem is they'll be expensive - think $1k to $1500 due to all the welds that need to be done. I don't know that it's realistic to see them available from someone unless it's a custom job like what Jake had done on his 2G. Hopefully I'm wrong.

You mean his 1g

As to the price if someone could rig up one that was lighter than stock and stronger I would pay that much.

 

[99gst_racer]

You mean his 1g

They're referring to Jake Lehmkuhl from the Denver area.

 

[1992awdlaser]

I will be making tubular versions of all the suspension pieces on 1G's in the near future in my welding class. If I find somebody local, I might even make them for the 2G's, after the 1G stuff of course. Everything I make, I will be using on my car and then selling the same pieces after I am satisfied with the safety.

 

[Slippi84]

They're referring to Jake Lehmkuhl from the Denver area.

Ahhh I got ya

 

[v413nc3]

I'm Jake Lehmkuhl. I have 2G's and Evo's. I don't own any 1G's hence why I don't have anything made for 1G's. And I did not make these, I HAD them made. They are of the top most quality and will take any abuse you want to throw at it, but they are not cheap. Nor are they as light as you can go. They were not made for drag racing. These were made for road racing. I'm sure you could go with smaller diameter and wall thickness for a drag duty only car. Personally I couldn't care less about drag and I am not interested in looking into it. For $1650 rear and $1600 front on a 2G you can get the rear K members that come with tubular control arms as well. What this means to the 2G guys is that the rear K (most important to replace first). You get no pivot out of your rear diff under power. This saves your diff and your axles. It also means you get full camber and toe adjustability in the rear with none of the hoakey washers or offset balljoints. Everything is made with high quality high load aurora spherical bearings. They're not cheap, look them up if you're curious why this costs so much. It's all custom bent and TIG welded ChroMo. It clears the stock 2G gas tank and any fuel cell that fits in its place (I run a fuel safe cell in stock location). It also clears the stock fill tube.

Having said all that, yes I can post pictures. No I will not post complete pictures because if any cheapskates out there feel like copying it they can find a spoon and eat my backside. I will post pictures of it on my race car, or pictures of it off. To drop the whole rear end takes me minutes now. I am not making any profit on this so I'm not going to answer half a billion questions on them. If you have the budget and are really interested then bug me and I will gladly hook you up.