do i need a new turbo and what should i get

[dsm1212]

ok so when i first start my car i always let it warm up because i heard that turbo cars need to something about the oil, but when i first start to drive it when the turbo starts spooling up it makes a loud chirping like noise as it spools but then after about five min of driving it goes away and sounds normal whistle and then my bov. Does that mean the turbo is going out or what? if it is which turbo should i get i am looking at the 16g the t28 and a 14b i know the t28 is a direct bolt on is the 14 also? thanks for your help

 

[crimsondragon]

You shouldn't need to let it warm up at all. As for the chirping noise, check for shaft play in the turbo. It might be excessive shaft play grinding against the compressor housing. A 14b is not a direct bolt on. Due to the design of it along with the 16gs, you will need a J-pipe for it to hook up to the intercooler. Depending on your plans, you have several choices for a turbo. For cheapness, go with a 14b. For more power, go with a 16g. For an easy install, go with a T-28.

 

[dsm1212]

i will check for shaft play but if it was shaft play why would the sound go away after about 5 min? i will check tho and i will let you know.

 

[GSpikeX]

I'd go with the evo III 16g its tryed and true

 

[webconnect]

I don't think you should boost with the turbo / engine cold. On cold days my turbo makes a different pitched sound when boosting right on startup. Then when everything warms up it goes back to normal. Perhaps its the metal expanding while its getting warmer.

 

[dlb21]

The reson that you need the turbo to warm up is so that the oxygen sensor can begin to operate properly and it can only do this once it reaches a certain temp. With out it the engine is not getting proper reading. If you have a A/F gauge you can see this by the fact that it simply wont start working until the oxygen sensor reaches temp. If you start boosting right away then the engine will not have proper reading to get the fuel/air mix right.

What is your BOV doing ???

as on a new turbo what are your HP goals??

 

[kwheeler]

The reson that you need the turbo to warm up is so that the oxygen sensor can begin to operate properly and it can only do this once it reaches a certain temp. With out it the engine is not getting proper reading. If you have a A/F gauge you can see this by the fact that it simply wont start working until the oxygen sensor reaches temp. If you start boosting right away then the engine will not have proper reading to get the fuel/air mix right.

What is your BOV doing ???

as on a new turbo what are your HP goals??

The O2 sensors in our cars are heated and reach operating temp in about 30-40 seconds. Unless he's starting it and launching immediately the O2 sensor reading wrong should not be an issue. Besides until the ECU goes into closed loop (the O2 sensor and coolant temp are in the correct range) the ECU will run the car a little rich anyway.

The oil pressure being high enough is more important than the O2 reading. If the oil pressure has been built up there is no reason you can't go into boost when the engine is cold.

kwheeler

 

[dlb21]

It was my understanding that it took longer than that for the 02 to reach temp.. Do you have a air fuel guage??? does it start moving right away(30-40sec) or is it delayed like mine( 1-3 min). Why do you think mine is delayed if it only takes 30-40 secondsn for the 02 to warm up. You should have oil pressure as soon as the car is on.

 

[clean96GST]

Is it like a belt squeeling sound?

 

[dsm1212]

no it does not sound like the belts it sounds like the blades hitting the housing but if it was that why would it go away after about five min of driving i do not have an a/f gauge but i do let the oil pressure rise before driving and it still makes the noise just when i first start driving but then it goes away

 

[dsm1212]

The reson that you need the turbo to warm up is so that the oxygen sensor can begin to operate properly and it can only do this once it reaches a certain temp. With out it the engine is not getting proper reading. If you have a A/F gauge you can see this by the fact that it simply wont start working until the oxygen sensor reaches temp. If you start boosting right away then the engine will not have proper reading to get the fuel/air mix right.

What is your BOV doing ???

as on a new turbo what are your HP goals??

and has for my hp goals i would like to be around 300whp to 350

 

[heckles]

fix all oil leaks

 

[dlb21]

I would go with a big 16G that would make you plenty of power if you have the right fuel mods to support it and easily get you to your goal. I have a small 16g and I was close to those numbers but i think it will max out around 325hp. THe big 16g is resonably priced to, not much more than a small 16 g. definatly worth it.

 

[dsm-onster]

I don't know what the above poster's problem is with his small 16g , but the 14b is capable of 325whp and is cheap.

The small 16g is noticably faster at spool speed and can easily meet you're goal. So you'll have better of both worlds with one.

 

[Absinthminded]

It sounds like your turbo needs replacement. Pull your intake tube and reach your hand in there(engine off of course) grab the nut on the comp wheel and try to move it up and down/in and out. Does it spin easily?
I recomend the Evo Big 16g. There is a supporting vendor here that has a great deal on them right now.

 

[dsm1212]

alright i will check that latertoday i just got home and its probably kinda hot haha. but it it still does not make sense to me why the sounds goes away. today when i was leaving i started out driving really slow and rolled down my window kinda with my head out to here it and as a started to accelerate i heard the sound it really sounds like the blades rubbing against the housing to me, but it still confuses me why it goes away and then it sounds fine.

 

[dsm1212]

I don't know what the above poster's problem is with his small 16g , but the 14b is capable of 325whp and is cheap.

The small 16g is noticably faster at spool speed and can easily meet you're goal. So you'll have better of both worlds with one.

so you are saying that the small 16g spools up a lot quicker? thats kinda what i am looking for i don't really car about a lot of top end i just want to be able to pull really hard and just have a quick car as my daily driver.

 

[dsm-onster]

I was commenting on the small 16g vs. evo 3 16g. Considering your goal of 300-350whp, the evo3 16g compressor is just a waste energy because of it's larger diameter. It spools slower than a small 16g and a small 16g is VERY efficient at your goal. It is perfect choice for you.

 

[dsm1212]

so if i go with the small 16g will i need any supporting mods?

 

[RedTurboEclipse]

I THINK we may be hearing the same sound. I hear something too on my beater 95 gsx. stock turbo setup though. Only when cold first start up or after a while not being ran. You rev it up and you hear this weird sound that goes with your revs. Until it gets hot and warmed up then its gone. It's more obvious when cold, and as it gets hotter gets less and less noticible until fully warmed and then gone?

One of my head to manifold stud broke, and there maybe a small exhaust leak in the corner. I always thought thats what it was. The turbo shows no signs of damage at all. But who knows, it hasn't effected driveability. Just sounds like the car is broken at first hah, but its my beater. I'll be upgrading the turbo soon to a b16g. If it still makes the sound, then I'll confirm things.

 

[dsm-onster]

so if i go with the small 16g will i need any supporting mods?

550cc-650cc injectors and an safc, logger, and boost gauge for control and monitoring. And an intercooler upgrade. A decent sized ebay intercooler is cheap and done great for me when I was running the small 16g. Also, a better flowing exhaust vs. stock will get you into the potential of the small 16g alot easier.

 

[dsm1212]

I THINK we may be hearing the same sound. I hear something too on my beater 95 gsx. stock turbo setup though. Only when cold first start up or after a while not being ran. You rev it up and you hear this weird sound that goes with your revs. Until it gets hot and warmed up then its gone. It's more obvious when cold, and as it gets hotter gets less and less noticible until fully warmed and then gone?

One of my head to manifold stud broke, and there maybe a small exhaust leak in the corner. I always thought thats what it was. The turbo shows no signs of damage at all. But who knows, it hasn't effected driveability. Just sounds like the car is broken at first hah, but its my beater. I'll be upgrading the turbo soon to a b16g. If it still makes the sound, then I'll confirm things.

ya that is pretty much exactly what it is like

 

[fatherbubble]

Get the evo one its the same price an it weights 2.5lbs lighter than the others. Once you get a turbo on there an see the power you can get you'll want more an more.