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DIY Brake Booster Hose

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Calan

DSM Wiseman
7,250
398
Jan 16, 2007
OKC, Oklahoma
I'm reworking my intake manifold ports, and need to move my brake booster hose. It would be easy to make one, with some 3/8 hose and a US Plastics check valve.

I understand everyone is gonna say "bad idea... to risky... just use OEM...etc etc". But after studying this I can't see any reason that it wouldn't work, as long as I use common sense and good materials.

I mocked one up and the check valve has very close to the same amount of flow, and an almost identical crack pressure.

Has anyone done this and have some results?
 
Since nobody has an opinion, I went ahead and made one up that will be going on the car. I've moved the port on my IM over to the undrilled boss closer to the driver's side, and made a custom hose to fit better. More pics and info can be found in my build blog as things progress.

I'll post back with results if I ever finish this marathon build. :)

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I can't post a picture of it at the moment, but I redid my brake booster hose the exact same way when I put my engine back in last month. I used Magnum silicone hose with the US Plastics check valve - it's worked like a charm.
 
I have been wanting to do the same thing, but have been wondering where to get a check valve that will function correctly for this application. I'd really like to find a valve that would work AND be intergrated in to some SS braided style line :)
 
...have been wondering where to get a check valve that will function correctly for this application. I'd really like to find a valve that would work AND be intergrated in to some SS braided style line :)

Those US Plastics check valves are the best thing since strip joints and beer (sliced bread is way over-rated) :D

If you want SS lines, you could always go with the worm clamps with annodized covers. That is what I did on one end of my fuel return hose. You can see it in the pic below, sitting between the clutch and brake reservoirs.

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^^ i was reading a lot of your build log earlier...great job on everything... it's good to see a nice quality build done with the time taken for perfection! I see wy too many rush jobs (mush like my last one ended up being so i could drive to TX for the my wedding that didnt' last a year LOL )

I will look into those valves..as for the look-a-like SS line ends/covers...are those actually alright? I've never used them just because i find them in the redneck-n-rice aisle at the auto parts store and figured they would lose their color abd fall apart within a year, but if they're decent pieces i've got many places i could use them :)

I still want a huge SS setup for my radiator hoses and any other line i can replace on the car but the money in fittings add up fast, esecially when your slicing them apart to TIG weld them onto your water necks, t-stat housings and so forth... I love anodized AL and shiny SS... :D now if onlyI could get a full 4130 front sub=frame assembly at O'reilly's i'd be stoked :D
 
^^ i was reading a lot of your build log earlier...great job on everything... it's good to see a nice quality build done with the time taken for perfection! I see wy too many rush jobs (mush like my last one ended up being so i could drive to TX for the my wedding that didnt' last a year LOL )

I will look into those valves..as for the look-a-like SS line ends/covers...are those actually alright? I've never used them just because i find them in the redneck-n-rice aisle at the auto parts store and figured they would lose their color abd fall apart within a year, but if they're decent pieces i've got many places i could use them :)

I still want a huge SS setup for my radiator hoses and any other line i can replace on the car but the money in fittings add up fast, esecially when your slicing them apart to TIG weld them onto your water necks, t-stat housings and so forth... I love anodized AL and shiny SS... :D now if onlyI could get a full 4130 front sub=frame assembly at O'reilly's i'd be stoked :D

Thanks for the compliments Glenn... that means a lot coming from you ;)

Some of those clamps are good; some aren't. Most of them are just your everyday worm clamp with an anodized cover...but they look pretty good. Summit Racing has a bunch of them from different manufacturers. They also come in a surprising number of different styles, and can get as expensive as actual AN fittings.

I prefer actual AN fittings of course, but there are situations where it just makes more sense to use the clamp...like my fuel return line. I used an AN fitting at the AFPR, but it would have been kind of silly IMHO (and a lot of work, not to mention dangerous LOL) to weld some type of AN bung to the return tube, just to have another AN fitting there.

These 24 pages of covered worm clamps at Summit should get you started. :D
 
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