2G Discuss my build plans please!

[dfauci]

My goals for the car are really just to hit about 300 awhp and have a really fun weekend type of car. Not looking for a missile or a track car. The actual dyno number doesnt really matter to me, if its 260 i dont care, its its 330 i also don't care, just something zippy thats fun to drive is all i want.

Here is my build/build plan thus far and i would like any input, criticisms (constructive please!) and opinions on the final direction and things to add/improve.

1995 Eagle Talon TSi AWD 5-Speed

Engine:
7 bolt bottom end with a 6 bolt head (dont ask me why, previous owner was a scrub, at any rate i'm just going to run with it, not buying a new head)

Wiseco 9:1 85.5 mm (.20 over) Pistons
Manley H-Beam Rods with ARP connectors
Clevite Tri-Metal Main Bearings
Clevite Tri-Metal Rod Bearings
Arp Head/Main Studs
Supertech Valve springs (everything else on the head is stock)
OEM gasket kit
Gates waterpump
OEM Timing Kit/Belt with Balance Shaft Delete Kit (STM)
Crank measured/polished
Block/Head milled
Everything else being cleaned/hot tanked

Currently the car has an EBay 16G turbo, i actually am going to run this just during the engine break in period. I have another authentic MHI 16G on the way i will be having rebuilt to swap with it after a couple hundred miles and a few oil changes.

Electronics:

DSMLink V3
Wideband (Dont know what brand to go with yet - suggestions would be appreciated)
Boost gauge (again, no brand picked yet, suggestions welcome)
Hallman Pro Manual Boost Controller (unless you suggest a different brand, not purchased yet)
RC 550 Injectors
Walbro 190 Fuel Pump

Breathing:

3inch turbo back exhaust
Ebay (i think) manifold (getting replaced with an FP when the rebuilt turbo goes on)
Injen Intake
"greddy" (might be knockoff, not sure how to tell) BOV

This is my initial - get the car running consistently and well - build. I'm avoiding a 255 wally pump because i dont want to do an AFPR and add another headache for tuning (im a complete tuning noob by the way as well) and another potential failure point. i dont expect THIS setup to make a ton of power, but in all reality the only real change i may make in the future is swapping the fuel system to an E85 setup and calling it a day. (hence why i've opted for cheaper injectors/pump now because i will likely not keep them long)

Let me know what you think please and if you think im way off on something let me know that too.

 

[Cooper-97gst]

You will need a fmic as well.
Also there's no mention of exhaust systematic.
Turbo back 2.5" will be fine for what you want. Many different options to choose from.
Intake pipe and filter will need to upgraded too.

 

[dfauci]

Sorry i got caught up at work while typing, knew i forgot something, I have an OBX FMIC, a 3 inch turbo back exhaust and an injen intake with a greddy BOV, (not sure if its a knock off or not), ill edit my original post

 

[iNoise]

you could hit 300 easy without a bottom end build, no?

 

[952g63t]

Make sure you take a good hard look at your block before and after sending it to the machine shop. You want to check for obvious things, but one thing that might get overlooked is your oil galleries. The ones on the front especially (depending on the casting mold age) will benefit from grinding/sanding them smooth. It's fairly easy, just got done doing mine. I have an early 95' block and my galleries were damned near perfect, but it doesn't hurt to smooth out the transition areas to help that oil flow.

*Make sure you get the correct ARP head stud kit.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/4g63-block-oiling-mod.452546/

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[1990TSIAWDTALON]

Why are you going with relatively small injectors? With Link you can dial in a bigger injector to work but you can never get more out of a smaller injector. I would personally put larger ones in and tune around them if you are running link. Just a thought so you don't waste money and wish you had more.

952g63t is right, get the 1g, 12mm head studs for the 6 bolt head not the smaller 2g's (11mm I think).

 

[Jerzm3]

6 bolt head studs will not thread into a 7 bolt block.

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

OOO my bad, that is correct. Thanks for catching that. My engine is just the opposite. 6 bolt w 7 bolt head. So he needs 11mm 7 bolt studs....I must be sleepy.

 

[Rev_olution]

Hitting 300 will not be a problem. What ecu are you running and who will tune you? I know a great shop in Long Island that will get you where you need to be

 

[HaveBlue83]

agreed with earlier posts.

I have an E316g, FIC 650's on 22psi, 22deg timing here. honestly its such a proven turbo for 300's and its OEM as well. Just a BSEK, OEM HG and ARP's is fine. you can use cams to shift your powerband as well.


-def go bigger INJ. I am at 75% InjDuty right now on the 22psi. as a MAX, I'd say go 850's. I prefer FIC.

-you dont need a high high CR unless u want more responsiveness down low. lower comp, more timing is EASY to tune and gives you more margin before knock.

-keep it fun. once you reach your goals, learn to drive it fully.

 

[dfauci]

i may try my hand at doing a VERY conservative tune on my own (after tons of research), but i live about 10 minutes away from STM, so likely they will be doing the final tuning. i only have the 550cc injectors because they came as a package used with the 16g i bought to have rebuilt. i will probably go bigger on the injectors but i am considering swapping to e85 once i get everything broken in and running smoothly so i wont be doing much in the way of fuel upgrades yet since ill have to change everything anyway. thankfully with STM being right here my machine shop is already taking care of the oil galleys/balance shaft eliminator kit for me because they are well versed in 4g63t building.

i thank you for all the input, i know i overspent for my goals, but i would rather have superior parts that will last longer than take the cheapest way out.

the ECU is a standard 2g turbo ECU that i had ecmlink test, convert to eprom and socket for me.

the one issue i am continually running in to is that i cant find any real reliable information on running a 6bolt head on a 7 bolt block. i see in tons of places that it CAN be done, but nothing definitive on HOW. i already have the CAS harness, i believe the injector and plug firing order have to be changed. but i cant get solid info on the changes and if there is more to consider or not. (i already have the 7 bolt head studs as well and the correct intake manifold)