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Disappointing dyno results today!!!!!

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2nd: He mentioned the lower honeycomb has been removed

7th: Probably: Running a 95 ecu in a 97+ vehicle requires you to invert the CAS

As for his lb/min vs hp, I believe you are saying his airflow numbers are too high for the power he's putting down? If so I was under the impression that 1 lb/min was ~ 10 crank hp & not whp. If this is the case, his lb/min seems about right if you figure somewhere between 15-20% drivetrain loss.

HAHA! I totally spaced on some of the thread. Having the honeycombs removed would certainly make the hertz curve off. And I didn't think about the 1995 into the 1997 issue.

As I mentioned, there's no way he's loosing so much hp in drivetrainloss. As I mentioned, should it take more than 30 hp to actually turn the drive train? after that, any more loss is heat from frictional forces. Where does that 30+ kilowatts of heat go? That's an aweful lot of excess heat.

I'm saying that the drivetrain loss percentage goes down significantly as the hp goes up. It doesn't take but so much power to overcome the frictional (heat causing) forces and the inertia of the drivetrain. Why would 100 more hp cause 15-20 more hp loss in friction. There's no reason for the frictional forces to change any more than the rotational inertia of the system.

There's some reason why his hp is low for his lb/min airflow, IMHO. Somethign is really a miss to me.

Hmmm, if his maf is hacked, then there would be adjustments to almost all the airflow sliders. It certainly would NOT meter like stock starting at only 800hertz as the MAF comp window indicates. HAHA, this would make his logged lbs/min airflow number lower than it actually is. ??? I don't know how much compesation a mildly hacked 2g maf needs, though so maybe I'm blowing smoke about the maf compensation.
 
This isn't the log from the dyno. It's the a log from a few days after the dyno. When the car was dynoed it was 100*+ in the garage. I'm sure this didn't help with the horsepower numbers at all.

I really want to get the car completely tuned but I'm very hesitant about taking it back to this shop. Man this sucks!!!! Wish there was another reputable shop i could take the car to that's close by.

Thanks for all your responses guys.
 
I would probably not take it back to that shop if I were you. How far are you from some of the good shops in New Jersey? Such as Turbotrix and Slowboy. Now I have no experience with these shops, but back like 5 years ago my friends and I had some good experiences with the guys from BM Tranny, this is obviously before they merged with turbotrix. I know you said you didnt want to travel far, but i'm sure those shops wouldnt do you wrong you know.

Perhaps you could PM blcknspo0ln for some more good shops in New Jersey.

Bill
 
Was this Extreme Motorsports in Maryland? If, so give them a call and explain to them what took place and that you were not satisfied and ask for another go on the dyno. Also, as stated before you need to rent the dyno for a few hours, not one of those three pulls for 100 buck deals.

-Brian
 
Car V2 has an AWD dyno so they may suite you better.
Not last time I spoke to them (Philly Autoshow Feb 07). Said had planned to do it but was not worth the cost :toobad:

Anyway, Verocious Motorsports in Wilm has an AWD DynoJet as does Philly Dyno Works and both have decent DSM Tuners on hand.

I'll also be hitting Cecil to do some T&T in the next couple weeks (my Dyno ;) ) so if you want to meet up and talk DSMLink, shoot me a PM :dsm:
 
Pull your ECU, get the serial number off the chip, and contact Tom/Dave at DSMlink. Tell them you're transferring ownership. Get a user account on the forums.

Download the DSMlink user guide and tuning guide. Read and learn. Set up the airflow tables and fuel global/deadtime properly before you try to play with tuning. If you want to make things easier, find a stock MAF with all the honeycombs and zero out the airflow sliders. If you ever reach the point of flowing more than ~50lb/min, just activate FakeMAF.

You Dont need a dyno to tune. You have a wideband and a logger. Once the settings are dialed in right and you have bigger injectors, there's no reason you can't set it up right yourself. There are plenty of people who can help you nearby, some have offered to help in this thread already.

Make a cold air adapter for the MAF inlet. Put a PVC elbow on the MAF inlet and put the filter in the stock SMIC location. It should take about 15 minutes and cost $20 tops. It'll drop temps at least 25 degrees and help alot with knock.

You didn't mention it and no one else asked, but what variant of "GT30R" do you have? It could be the lower flowing 3071R, in which case you might not have much left in it.
 
Yeah, I'm not sweating it. I really wish there was someone close who could help me get thing thing dialed in. I'd even be willing ot pay them.
 
8urv8.

Please pm me. I can help you. It appears you have a wideband. Pm me and we can go over details. I have been helping others tune via email for some time now.

You can email me at [email protected]

Hope to talk to you soon.

Steven
 
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