Disappointing dyno results today!!!!!

[8urv8]

I took my car to get some work done as well as what I thought was a full tune at a local shop. Don't want to say any names cause I don't like to bash anyone. This is a very reputable shop and the service was great and the owner was a very nice guy who went out of his way to help me since i forgot some parts that I really needed. He sold me the parts so I could get my car tuned and once I got home and swapped out my parts, he credited me back the money once I sent his parts back. A+ service in my book.

Here's what the car has done to it. 4g64 crank, weisco pistons, eagle rods, titanium retainers, nitraded valve, SBR gt30r ball bearing, 625 injectors, whalbro 255, AFPR, 4" intake, SBR street/strip cams and JMF intake.

The tuner only made three pulls on the dyno and said he was all done with the final numbers being 327awhp and 292awtq . They installed the dsm link and had the car on the dyno for about 45minutes. I don't feel as though they really dug into it and tuned the car fully. They were taking the car from basically scratch and it wasfully tuned it in 45 minutes? The dyno graph looks like a mountain range. It's not smooth at all!!!

Let me know what you guys think.

Like I said, I'm not bashing these guys, I just need some of your opinions. I thougth a dyno tune was a full, dig into it, all out tune of the car and every aspect of the timing. Let me know if you have any suggestions or opinions. Thanks for looking!!!


Ryan H.

 

[Xit40]

To me it sounds like there was a miscommunication. It sounds like you got power pulls rather than renting out the dyno to actually tune on it. Like you said he was very nice and even let you buy parts and swap yours back in. If you have credit on your account I would give them a call and see if you could rent the dyno out and tune it. It usually costs somewhere around $125 - $150/hr plus tuning fees which is like $40/hr on top of that. Just give them a call and see.

 

[CanadianTSi]

Boost? Gas? Dyno Sheet? DSMLink Log? Type of Dyno?

 

[taylorspl]

It would've taken alot longer than that if they'd set your fuel trims before doing the pulls, like you need to do with the DSMLink. Buy a $200 wideband and a map sensor and go street tuning.

 

[8urv8]

How do you post a log on here? I have no clue. Just a run down. Timing at the end of the run is 12.8, the injector duty is 100%(which i told them to check and address specifically) and there is 0.7 knock between 5800 and 6900 rpms. Someone please help me post a log. A picture is worth a thousand words. This was all on 20psi.

 

[JayRolla]

Im guessing you have an upgraded clutch and a FMIC right? If so a little more than 20psi should be ok. Also what a/f did they tune it too and if it wasnt smooth thats not good. Dips in the curve is where your knocking most likely. Like they said buy a WBO2 and tune it to a low 11:1 a/f and you will be good. Larger injectors may help also.

 

[8urv8]

Yes I've got an act 2600 and the slowboy racing fmic. The air/fuel on my wideband goes between 11.2-11.8 during the entire run but it doesn't match the dsmlink air/fuel for some reason? Anyone have any ideas why? I can't give it any more fuel since my injectors are maxed out.

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[JayRolla]

If the dsmlink is not reading from a WBo2 than it wont be accurate. The fuel curve should stay smooth and you may be knocking where the dips are. Pull some timing out where its knocking. You may have to much timing.

 

[CanadianTSi]

To Post a Log go down below the submit reply button where it says attach files, click that button.

First problem would be your Injectors are too small and maxxed out. Your going to want to get some 850-1000cc Injectors.

Second problem is 12 degree's of timing is way to low and won't make any power.

I would turn the boost down a couple pounds to lower your IDC and 0 out your timing sliders.

Also Tons of Information and Help can be found on the DSMLink Forums...

 

[JayRolla]

To Post a Log go down below the submit reply button where it says attach files, click that button.

First problem would be your Injectors are too small and maxxed out. Your going to want to get some 850-1000cc Injectors.

Second problem is 12 degree's of timing is way to low and won't make any power.

I would turn the boost down a couple pounds to lower your IDC and 0 out your timing sliders.

Also Tons of Information and Help can be found on the DSMLink Forums...

If he is only hitting 12* max timing, then there must be some timing pull or the dyno shop pulled a lot timing out.

 

[taylorspl]

High intake temps and high coolant temps can rob you of a few degree's easily.

Coolant
@ 206 you lose 1 degree
@ 224 you lose 2 degrees

Intake temps
@ 100 you lose 1 degree
@ 134 you lose 2 degrees

If it's hottt out you could easily lose 2 degrees if not more.

Just go ahead and make a pull from like 2k rpm to wherever you shift in 3rd and post it up here and we'll see if we can help. If you're getting knock just turn down the boost until you don't knock anymore, if that's even possible with those injectors on the 2.3.

Before we get too far into all this you did already get your fuel trims set right?


EDIT: I just realized that you said 625 injectors...those wouldn't be HRC would they? As those only seem to flow 550cc.

 

[8urv8]

I've got the log on my desktop but have no idea how to post it on here.

 

[8urv8]

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Here's a link to the log!!!! I'll be ordering new injectors on Monday. When I put the new injectors in can I just leave the tune where it is and make adjustment to the global fuel and dead time setting and tweek the fuel and timing. Wouldn't that be better than totally starting from scratch?

 

[CanadianTSi]

Yes you can do that. The tune actually looks pretty good, just the high intake temps and coolant temps were killing your timing.

 

[8urv8]

What can I do to get the coolant and intake temps down?

 

[DirtyBirdRacing]

What can I do to get the coolant and intake temps down?

To lower intake temps you could wrap your exhaust manifold, turbine housing, etc. with heat wrap or get them ceramic coated. You could also use hood vents or something to get rid of the hot air in the engine bay.

To lower the engine temps, hood vents would prob help that as well (it would get the static hot air out from around the engine and more importantly when driving it would probably help to "suck" air through the radiator from the front of the car and out the hood). Also, I have heard that redline water wetter works good at lowering engine temps. You also might just want to change your coolant and clean out your radiator. I think you can use a volt meter to check the coolant to see if it is too old.

Hope this helps.

Bill

 

[ILLiCliPSE]

turn the boost up. from the log, it says youre only running 17-18psi unless im reading that wrong. youre also knocking quite a bit up top.

 

[Blitzeclips]

Look. I'm from Delaware too, and I know of a few VERY reputable shops up here in northern DE. No offense, but lower DE doesn't have many good tuning shops.

I have had personal experience with each of them and know a few staff members. Check out First State Motorsports (claymont, DE) Car Version 2 (newport, DE).

Those are the two I know of offhand. Others that don't come to mind probably aren't worth your time to try. So look them up or shoot me a PM.

For example, Car version 2 has a 700 or 900 WHP skyline. They also built a 10 second Supra. Compltely kitted out in full sheet metal by them. They also have a 10 second 350z completely carbon fiber.

First State motorsports has a 10 second civic hatch. Also a Supra JZ motor in a lexus. Full custom exhaust manifold and completely SICK custom intake manifold.

Car V2 has an AWD dyno so they may suite you better.

 

[CanadianTSi]

turn the boost up. from the log, it says youre only running 17-18psi unless im reading that wrong. youre also knocking quite a bit up top.

Hes running 100% IDC and your telling him to turn the boost up?

Also .7 degree's of knock is nothing.

 

[8urv8]

What is considered alot of knock? Thanks for all of your responses everyone. Oh, the shop I went to was in Maryland, not Delaware.

 

[biglady112]

Just tell us. Was it extreme. If so, you can get much better results. The tune is not bad. However, there is not reason for them to be messing with the airflow sliders down low like that. You are out of injector as stated. You should really tune for 11.0:1 and turn the boost and timing up accordingly.

Is your copy of dsmlink a legitimate copy? Are you on the dsmlink forums? There is much information to be had there. Post up a copy of the dyno print out. Log is not bad, but I think there is somethings left to be had in there. What type of dyno was this?

Steven

 

[8urv8]

Yes, it was extreme motorsports. It boggles my mind the injectors were not even addressed. Injector duty is one of the main things they should be looking at IMO. I'm not a tuner and I know that.

Canadian TSI....thanks for all your imput.

biglady112.....what were you refering to about the air sliders being moved and how do I know if I have a legit copy?

Regards,
Ryan H.

 

[CanadianTSi]

If you look under Ecu> Airflow your low airflow sliders are all raised up pretty high. Is your MAF hacked or anything?

 

[8urv8]

I'm not sure. I'll have to take the air filter off and take a look at it. What should i do if it is hacked?

 

[CanadianTSi]

Post a Log of the car cruising around and then about a 5 min idle on the DSMLink forums.