Dipstick Dip Stick popped, popping, blow, blowing, blew out [Merged]

[scrcco]

I just installed a different head after my timing belt went. Everything is back together and the break-in period is over. Last night i revved past 5,000 rpm. for the first time and noticed it was struggling, I let off at 5,500. Then a riced-out Honda cruised by so i stepped on it, went to about 6,000 rpm's, now theres a huge cloud of smoke behind my car. I opened the hood to notice my dipstick shot up, and oil sprayed all over the underneath of my hood, then dripped all over the motor and exhaust. What could be the problem? I already replaced the PCV valve and does the same thing???

 

[94Jettameowpsst]

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I know its hard to see, but is this what you mean by the dipstick popping out...c.ause thats all the farther it goes? If that is a bad sign, would rings cause too much pressure in the crankcase?

 

[Mike1992]

Yes excessive crankcase pressure. Check the PCV valve first and make sure your vent on the valve cover is breathing easy. If those check out good, thats a bad sign and points towards other things.

 

['93EclipseGSX]

This could be as simple as the rubber at the base of the dipstick loosing its elasticity. If the rubber has hardened it will not create a good seal, check there first.
Rob

 

[94Jettameowpsst]

The engine in my car was recently rebuilt. The block was honed but wasnt bored. The first 1500 miles were taken very easy w/ a subtle transition over to 15psi from 10. What exactly would cause a ring not to seat if thats the case?

 

[lilGSXthatcould]

the main thing i've been told by most engine builders is to not baby the motor, the best thing that I've found is to drive at normal speeds, then do a couple of hard short pulls. You should go ahead and boost it and don't run at a steady rpm for long periods of time, but if you only honed the cylinders, you cannot expect the motor to be 100%. You need to bore the cylinders to get out all imperfections which will hurt your compression. Also make sure you don't break it in with synthetic motor oil, as it is too thin. Use regular mineral oil, and change it frequently up to around 2500 miles. JUst like everything elsethough, it's based on your own preference. I'm sure you can find plenty more info by searching "engine break-in" etc. Good luck!

 

[K_Hill]

I am having the same problem with my 1g. It makes me mad when I get on it alittle and the dipstick blows out.

 

[Mike1992]

I am having the same problem with my 1g. It makes me mad when I get on it a little and the dipstick blows out.

You wont be thinking mad thoughts when oil blows out the dipstick tube catching your engine bay on fire, you'll be in tears instead.

 

[94Jettameowpsst]

Well, i was actually thinking that whole thing the other day about boring the cylinders......makes sense and i dont see why the kid didnt have it done for there maybe a slight chance that the block could be warped slightly. (me and buddy rebuilt the motor while it was still his car) Now, i squished my dipstick tube so now the thing doesnt fly out anymore and when i did a comp test a week or 2 ago the results were like 179-179-151-168. Now if you look at my recent old topics i was having a disappearing coolant problem and right after i did that comp test i retorqued the HS and the coolant stopped disappearing. (headstuds werent retq.d after initial breakin) My reasoning for starting this post was to get a concensus about that dip stick situation. So far you've been helpful but out of curiousity, how many of you have had a similar situation happen to you? On a side note, when you first start the car and let it heat up, the first pull you make will have an oily smell to it.

 

[Spoolin4Ever]

179-179-151-168

Kinda inconsistant there.

Was the head shaved?

Is that the original dipstick. Best to replace it before getting to upset.

A good engine will make a bad dipstick popout.

A bad engine will make a good dipstick popout.

 

[K_Hill]

I actually fixed it by wrapping duct tape around it.. "that is for temporary". Right now the car isn't running cause of it jumping time.

 

[94Jettameowpsst]

Im pretty sure it was the original dipstick, you could pull it out with one finger.
And as for the head, yes, the head and block were both decked.

 

[BudmannG]

OK, This is my suggestion. Do a Boost Leak Test http://www.vfaq.com/mods/ICtester.html
Boost leak will case this also. So don't just depend on a pressure test as your last resort. Boost leak is very common and should never be over looked.

 

[1glaserturbo]

You wont be thinking mad thoughts when oil blows out the dipstick tube catching your engine bay on fire, you'll be in tears instead.

Heh, that is exactly how I felt last night. I was driving home from work pretty late and I noticed quite a big plume of smoke coming from under my hood and as well from my exhaust. So I freaked out and called my girlfriend up to tell her to meet me outside with a flashlight and some paper towels just in case. I pull up and open the hood, and what do I see? Bam, my dipstick is wide open and oil is EVERYWHERE!



Chris

P.S. For excess crank case pressure, a really good DSM buddy of mine said a catch can would help drastically reduce the pressure, is this true?

 

[huafist]

You should go ahead and boost it and don't run at a steady rpm for long periods of time, but if you only honed the cylinders, you cannot expect the motor to be 100%. You need to bore the cylinders to get out all imperfections which will hurt your compression.

I don't know where you head that, but if there are any "imperfections" in a cylinder wall, then you'd better bore it or it's not going to last long. Honing cylinders that are in good condition will yield the same compression results as one that's been bored & honed, all else equal.

And back on topic, I agree with others. Check the PCV valve. Replacements are cheap.

 

[ddavisaf]

P.S. For excess crank case pressure, a really good DSM buddy of mine said a catch can would help drastically reduce the pressure, is this true?

09-02-2005 09:56 PM
Mike1992 Yes excessive crankcase pressure. Check the PCV valve first and make sure your vent on the valve cover is breathing easy. If those check out good, thats a bad sign and points towards other things.

It's the 15th.
Why don't you actually try this????

The job of the pcv is to vent the air.
A catch can replaces the pcv with a 1/8 npt fitting.
Replace the pcv valve post back with the results.
and GET THAT DUCT TAPE OFF!
If you're blowing out your dipstick due to a problem with your engine you better let it blow out before it blows up.
a pcv costs 2 bucks, a new dipstick costs what, 10, 15?

 

[dsm42788]

my dipstick was popping out then a month later i got crankwalk. It can happen

 

[1gnasty]

it could be blow by

 

[oldman]

P.S. For excess crank case pressure, a really good DSM buddy of mine said a catch can would help drastically reduce the pressure, is this true?

No, this is not true. The best venting capacity is achieved through the stock locations, pulling air out though the breather when under boost, pcv when under vacuum. The only draw back is dirty intake tract, which is the reason why catch cans are popular. When re-routing to a catch can though, one must replace the pcv with a 1/8 npt straight fitting and make sure the catch can is never full.

Let me share my experience with this issue which may be helpful to some of you. About 9 months ago while installing my new FMIC kit, I cleaned out my intake manifold (well kind of) and decided to route both my pcv and breather to a catch can. While struggling with boost leak and boost creep issues after the install I noticed my oil dipstick started to pop out. Like what most would do I replace it with a new one but the problem persisted so I proceeded to pinch the tube like 94Jettameowpsst and the problem was fixed, I was mighty proud of myself in fact. Two days later on a cold and wet morning on the way to work I started smoking bad out of my tail pipe, turned around (2min from my house) to discover my catch can built in sponge filter was frozen and my ingenious dipstick solution had effectively sealed off the last possible venting route and my fate. It took out my turbo seal, valve seals and some damage to the oil ring.

The point of the story is, dipstick popping out is usually a warning sign one should always take seriously. Oh and pull over and pop the hood even if it's 0 degrees out and only minutes away from home.

 

[kraka]

Yeah my dipstick popped out the other day causing oil and smoke in the engine bay and I do have an oil catch can...I guess I can try and empty the bottle, or check out the PCV valve, but for now, my only solution is to not do hard pulls...I have the boost lowered and I am not doing hi-rpm 2nd gear pulls like last time..So far, no dipstick shooting!!

 

[TUI2I30]

^^^ouch!

oldman = full of wisdom though experience! That one had me entertained and saddened at the same time. Thanks!

I too had the dip stick pop out issue on my old 1g. My PCV was still rerouting and my crank case had a mini k&n on it. I 'lightly' pinched the dipstick tube by putting a small dimple in it with non-insulated crimpers to resolve as the seal on my dipstick was old and hardend. I did not make it difficult to pull out either, I'm sure if it NEEDED to pop it would have but it never did again with no side effects.

 

[ddavisaf]

Yeah my dipstick popped out the other day causing oil and smoke in the engine bay and I do have an oil catch can...I guess I can try and empty the bottle, or check out the PCV valve, but for now, my only solution is to not do hard pulls...I have the boost lowered and I am not doing hi-rpm 2nd gear pulls like last time..So far, no dipstick shooting!!

If you have a catch can you either need to drill out the PCV valve, or replace it with a 1/8 npt staight fitting.

 

[4wd-Eclipse]

What about using a BIG catch can with breather filter at top and larger hoses and fittings (-10 AN size), then connected in both stock location on the valve cover and the BOTTOM of the catch can connected BACK to the block somewhere on the intake manifold side ... do you think that will help

 

[oldman]

What about using a BIG catch can with breather filter at top and larger hoses and fittings (-10 AN size), then connected in both stock location on the valve cover and the BOTTOM of the catch can connected BACK to the block somewhere on the intake manifold side ... do you think that will help

Think about it, can you spell huge boost and vacuum leak? To do this, a pcv valve must go between the catch can and the intake manifold, not catch can between the pcv and manifold. Also, what happens when oil fills up to the level where the supposed "BOTTOM of the catch can" is? It's a dangers business and I have been debating as whether to route everything back to stock locations and be over with.

 

[Mike1992]

Any advantage/dis-advantage of venting the valve cover via hose straight to the ground? Or would vaccum pulling out the vapors be optimal?

 

[MyBeatGSX]

I was having dipstick issues. I lost 1/2 quart of oil all over the engine bay on the way back from boston. I replaced the PCV last week and its hasn't blown out once since (just a little lift one time with no lost oil) and that's even inspite of the old, hard, dead dipstick. The engine even seems to run smoother, but that might just be my imagination.