The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Dipstick Dip Stick popped, popping, blow, blowing, blew out [Merged]

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

scrcco

20+ Year Contributor
39
2
Jun 10, 2002
Bowie, Maryland
I just installed a different head after my timing belt went. Everything is back together and the break-in period is over. Last night i revved past 5,000 rpm. for the first time and noticed it was struggling, I let off at 5,500. Then a riced-out Honda cruised by so i stepped on it, went to about 6,000 rpm's, now theres a huge cloud of smoke behind my car. I opened the hood to notice my dipstick shot up, and oil sprayed all over the underneath of my hood, then dripped all over the motor and exhaust. What could be the problem? I already replaced the PCV valve and does the same thing???
 
Last edited by a moderator:
If the compression goes up on a wet test this means the rings right?
Depending on how much it goes up, we're looking for at least 15psi+.

Now what if it stays the same??
Then,

1. A leak down to determine why your numbers are at 145, which is acceptable but no where near perfect.

2.
1. Retest at the TB elbow, if leaking stopped, you're simply leaking air through the turbo seal into the crankcase. This is normal during a static test AS LONG AS turbo has no excessive shaft play, no oil collecting in the LICP/IC and/or blowing smoke out of the tail pipe. If leaking persists, go to 2.

2. Temporarily disable your PCV valve and retest, if leaking stopped, replace the PCV with an OEM, adding a US plastic heavy duty check valve (between IM and PCV) will prevent it from leaking in the future while maintaining the ability to evacuate harmful oil contaminates (blow by) from your crankcase. If problem persists, your intake valve seals are in question. You can either pull the intake manifold and check for oil in your intake ports off the head or remove the valve cover and pour oil over the valves while pressure testing.

4. Keep in mind that if the wet compression test increases your compression number by a lot, you can also be leaking pressure through the rings into the crankcase since one combustion chamber (one at a time, which one depends on the position of the motor) will always be pressurized during a static intake pressure test.

5. I'm assuming your breather valve is vented since you avoided discussing it, this is one of the most common cause of dipstick blow out under boost. If so, you need to reroute it back to the intake pipe while using a Husky oil catch can/separator to prevent oil from entering your intake tract.
 
Matt, I saw your thread on Talk and you have to be careful who you listen to, the best and most complete advice in that thread is post #7 by tarantula.
 
Update: I redid the compression test again tonight dry and wet! Dry test was the same as last nights! Wet test was a bit different all the cylinders went up to about 170!!

Also tryed doing a boost leak test on the throttle body elbo and noticed i was getting alot of air come up threw the oil cap. But hardly any air was comeing up threw the dipstick!!!!

GOOD NEWS: Me and my brother did a compression test on My old blue 98 RS-T that I rebuilt about 10,000 miles ago and its still running strong with 200 across all cylinders!!
 
Mine used to pop out. I would just cruise to work and pop the hood and everytime the dipstick would be out of the tube. It botherd me knowing debris could be gettin into the oil. I figured it was the age of the rubber and that I would be needing a new dipstick. I eventually changed the timing belt and timed it with the proper tooling and help from and OEM manual. Since then my dipstick stays put. It no longer comes out of the tube. I musta had some bad valve timing before causing excessive crankcase pressure. I'm just glad it dosen't pop up anymore!
 
if i was you this is what i did because the dipstick seals go bad alot and they add up after buying a few of them. I used a spring and hooked it from the dipstick to the block and have never had a problem again except when i check my oil i have to unhook it.
 
Ok. Most of you are completely clueless. The PCV valve doesn't do shit when under boost, it's a check valve connected to the manifold and if your crankcase pressure gets as high as your boost pressure you have some big problems, not PCV valve problems and most definitely not problems with the dipstick itself.

There's only one reason why the dipstick pops out, it's because Mitsubishi can't engineer a crankcase breather.
The fix is to take the valve cover off and drill a hole in it next to the breather hole or through the breather hole (not PCV hole), tap it with a 3/8" NPT tap and put a hose barb on there for a half inch hose. Put a breather filter on the end.
Presto, the dipstick will never blow out ever again unless you melt a big hole through a piston. And if it does, you just put a bigger breather.
Also more power because your engine is no longer struggling with all that pressure inside the crankcase.
The 7mm breather that's on the engine from the factory is something I'd expect to see on a 1 liter N/A engine producing about 50 horsepower. Not a 2 liter turbo engine producing 200 and everything above horsepower. It's sufficient on a low mileage, completely stock engine, as soon as the engine gets old or you turn the boost up a couple pounds you will run into pressure problems.
 
i'm not entirely sure that i'm willing to believe your position on this issue. there have been many people here with many ideas that work (to varying degrees), why is your solution the best choice? could you give us some information about your background to help everyone believe that you do know this topic well?
i'm all for things that help the 4g63 make more power and be more reliable, but i'm also leery of radical claims
 
First off, look at any high performance engine other than a Mitsubishi and it will have a much bigger breather on the valve cover. That's a big clue.
If your crankcase is getting pressurized to the point where your dipstick blows out and you fix it by securing the dipstick down you're fixing the result, not the cause. The cause is always too much pressure in the crankcase. The dipstick should stay down even with the O rings removed.
 
Ok. Most of you are completely clueless. The PCV valve doesn't do shit when under boost, it's a check valve connected to the manifold and if your crankcase pressure gets as high as your boost pressure you have some big problems, not PCV valve problems and most definitely not problems with the dipstick itself.

There's only one reason why the dipstick pops out, it's because Mitsubishi can't engineer a crankcase breather.

The only thing the PCV value is supposed to do under boost is act as a check valve.

However some of us have actually bothered to test them over the last 17 years and noted that the aftermarket ones never did that good of a job where the OEM part did until after Mitsubishi stopped making turbo cars that used the same part. Then it became hit or miss for finding one that sealed at OEM boost pressure much less at what most people run.

A high percentage of the valves in use leak and allow the turbocharger to pressurize the crankcase. Most people who check cylinder leakdown on these engines don't find high amounts of blowby or notice much wear at all of the cylinder walls, so which factor do you really think is the root cause, blowby or leakage.

I've driven the same engine since day one, I know when the PCV value is leaking by abnormally high oil consumption and it coating my intake tract. The only time the dipstick has ever popped out was also due to a bad PCV valve. I changed the valve and it stopped but I noticed the rubber was hard so I replaced the dipstick shortly afterward.

While there is no question the breather can be improved I've yet to see it be the actual cause of these problems.

I also highly doubt that I'm completely clueless, yet. ;)
 
Ok, Like everyone else here after putting a BIG turbo on my DSM I experienced the same pop out scenario. My fix was use a Greddy oil catch can and plumb it to the INTAKE of THE TURBO and it actually keeps a negative pressure (suction) in the crank case. If you use the front nipple on the valve cover ( not the PCV one), plumb it to the catch can then the other nipple on the catch can you will plumb it with a hose too, the intake section between the turbo and the air cleaner. Also just as important, if you have a 1G buy a NEW Mitsu 2G dip stick, if you have a 2G car, already like mentioned in the past post get a new 2G dip stick also. The 2G dip stick has a serrated seal, it acts like multiple O-rings, so there will be no need for RIGGING your old dip stick to stay on. This is a method even the Supra owners have to do as I own a 800RWHP MK4 Supra too. :talon::dsm::thumb:

Stay tuned
 
Ok so I have a problem! My Dipstick keeps blowing out whenever I hit wot! I changed the pcv and still did not correct my problem. Any advice? Thanks
 
There's a few reasons why it would come out such as blow by or a bad case ventilation system. It could also be a bad seal on the top of the dipstick. What you can do is find a way to hold the dip stick in. I use a small piece of hose with a small clamp to keep it in.
 
Modifying the dip stick itself fixes the symptom but not the cause of the problem. If your dip stick pops out then you are generating far to much pressure in your crank case. This can be the cause of a bad pcv but you changed it so that pretty much leaves blow by from higher boost levels than factory, worn rings, or both.

If you want to improve ventilation over stock here are two threads about making the system better.
Paul's awesome system
What I did on my car.
 
or you could use Brians(1badpurple) idea and just get a carburator spring and attatch it to the dipstick and something underneath the dipstick that will hold the spring securly. Its very cheap and very effective. Just make sure you have enough tension on the spring.

Beware: spring gets hot! so be careful
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

  • For sale 2g 2G DSM Link V3
    2G DSM Link V3 $600 + shipping and paypal fees* no cable included * cables are 75 on the...
    • jersygsx
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • Wanted 2g Shot in the dark (2g Pass strut cut out)
    Need 2g strut tower to save time.
    • frosh29
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 2g 2G Mishimoto Radiator & Fan Shroud
    2G Mishimoto Radiator & Fan Shroud $200 + shipping and paypal feesYou must be registered to...
    • jersygsx
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale VIRGIN 4G63 6-BOLT TURBO HEAD
    Came off a virgin stock AWD Auto 1G DMS (91), also have matching block and crank which are also...
    • The_Partout_Spot
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 1G DSM 4G63 6-BOLT TIMING COVER
    Used, see condition in photos. Buyer covers shipping / fees.
    • The_Partout_Spot
    • Updated:
    • Expires
Back
Top