Dipstick Dip Stick popped, popping, blow, blowing, blew out [Merged]

[scrcco]

I just installed a different head after my timing belt went. Everything is back together and the break-in period is over. Last night i revved past 5,000 rpm. for the first time and noticed it was struggling, I let off at 5,500. Then a riced-out Honda cruised by so i stepped on it, went to about 6,000 rpm's, now theres a huge cloud of smoke behind my car. I opened the hood to notice my dipstick shot up, and oil sprayed all over the underneath of my hood, then dripped all over the motor and exhaust. What could be the problem? I already replaced the PCV valve and does the same thing???

 

[95CarbonEclipse]

I guess I should've added that you would have to re-route the two lines from the valve cover. Disconnect the line going to the intake manifold and run it to the catch can, disconnect the line going to the intake pipe and connect it to the catch can as well. So now both lines coming from the valve cover are going to a vented catch can, and the boosted line going to the PCV valve is no longer pushing boost into the crankcase. Now you have two vents while under boost instead of just one.

I know I'm going to catch hell for argueing with a wiseman, BUT....

With that setup you wouldn't be effectively evacuating blow by from the VC, not to mention your vented catch can would be releasing metered air (you're right, probably not a lot). Sure, you're definitly NOT going to have to worry about pressurizing your VC that way, but there's a reason there's those 2 lines from your VC are hooked up to the IM (post-turbo) and another to the air intake (pre-turbo). With an OEM setup VC blow by gasses are *sucked* out, not just vented. If that wasn't important (along with losing metered air) i'm sure that car manufacturer would've just put a vent in the valve cover instead of a PCV valve.

 

[GVR4592]

We're not evacuating excessive blowby, we're venting the crankcase. Excessive Blow by is something that occurs when the piston rings are toasted. Crankcase ventilation is required for most any internal combustion engine.

I agree, vacuum assisted crankcase ventilation is far superior to just two vents, but there are drawbacks. I don't like having crankcase gases getting into the combustion chamber, that's just another way to lower the knock threshold of the engine. I guess a more reasonable approach would be to run both of the lines to the intake pipe, with inline filters to keep the oil out of the combustion chamber. Or better yet use the exhaust system to create a vacuum for crankcase ventilation, I've got that all figured out for my new engine.

With the factory setup only one vent is working under boost. With the setup that most people use, they are getting two vents under boost.

http://www.roadraceengineering.com/instructions/catchcaninstructions.htm

If the catch can was releasing a noticeable amount of metered air, I think the engine would be pretty much done at that point, leakdown would have to be pretty severe.

 

[95CarbonEclipse]

That's a good point. The only drawback then would be venting while decelerating or at idle. But that isn't nearly as important as under boost.

 

[sbengineering]

A side note for performance engines, letting the motor fully warm-up before hitting it WOT, will allow all pistons and rings to fully expand and seal up.

 

[krummel21]

Alright changed the PCV valve and I recirculated the valve cover to the intake. I am still having the same problem with the dipstick. Any other ideas on why its happening? Boost getting past teh pistons?

Thanks,
Krummel21

 

[fast90eclipse]

i took a zip tie from my dip stick loop down and around to a stud from the back of alternater and wool lah no more dip stick popping up for me that is i dont know about every one else... try this out and tell me ### u think after

 

[fast90eclipse]

what u think

 

[oldman]

I will tell you what I think,

1. Use proper grammar, spelling, punctuation and caps when posting in the tech sections.

2. Do not bump your post ever.

3. Read the entire thread before you respond.

4. Read post #11 for the answer to your question.

 

[matt98eclipse]

Today i was on my way to work and I made a sharp right hand turn and was going pretty fast to get on the freeway... Right after i made that turn I noticed smoke in the cab of the car so I pulled over on the side of the freeway and poped my hood! There was oil all over the place on cam side of the motor and noticed my dipstick was poped out!!!!

What could of made this happen??

 

[assault187]

VFAQ.COM check it out. On the site it describes 4 senerios of why your dipstick would pop out....in most cases its just lack of crankcase ventilation. Nothing major. Happens to most of the guys on here, im sure

 

[oldman]

Today i was on my way to work and I made a sharp right hand turn and was going pretty fast to get on the freeway... Right after i made that turn I noticed smoke in the cab of the car so I pulled over on the side of the freeway and poped my hood! There was oil all over the place on cam side of the motor and noticed my dipstick was poped out!!!!

What could of made this happen??

Possible causes:

1. Worn out dipstick, highly unlikely.

2. Excessive blow by, perform a compression test, both dry and wet.

3. Excessive crankcase pressure, most of the time caused by venting of the breather valve instead of re-routing back to the intake pipe.

4. Excessive crankcase pressure caused by a leaky PCV valve, replace with a OEM unit but DO NOT disable it.

5. Excessive crankcase pressure caused by leaky intake valve seals, perform a boost leak test and listen for leaks under the oil cap.

The worst thing to do is to crimp shut the dipstick tube.

 

[oldman]

VFAQ.COM check it out. On the site it describes 4 senerios of why your dipstick would pop out....in most cases its just lack of crankcase ventilation. Nothing major. Happens to most of the guys on here, im sure

Nothing major? Dipstick pop out is your motor's way of telling you "something is broken, FIX ME!!!". Ignoring it will usually lead to something major down the road.

 

[matt98eclipse]

Thanxs oldman,

I did a compression test about a month ago and got around 145 in all cylinders!

Last night I did a boost leak test and had alot of air coming out the oil cap!!

 

[lenny 15]

Thanxs oldman,

I did a compression test about a month ago and got around 145 in all cylinders!

A month ago? Your dipstick popped out when? I would do another compression test, and like oldman said, both wet and dry compression tests.

 

[oldman]

I did a compression test about a month ago and got around 145 in all cylinders!

145 is not exactly healthy. Repeat the test with engine fully warmed up, throttle fully applied, battery fully charged and with all four plugs removed. then IMMEDIATELY follow it up with wet test.

Last night I did a boost leak test and had alot of air coming out the oil cap!!

1. Retest at the TB elbow, if leaking stopped, you're simply leaking air through the turbo seal into the crankcase. This is normal during a static test AS LONG AS turbo has no excessive shaft play, no oil collecting in the LICP/IC and/or blowing smoke out of the tail pipe. If leaking persists, go to 2.

2. Temporarily disable your PCV valve and retest, if leaking stopped, replace the PCV with an OEM, adding a US plastic heavy duty check valve (between IM and PCV) will prevent it from leaking in the future while maintaining the ability to evacuate harmful oil contaminates (blow by) from your crankcase. If problem persists, your intake valve seals are in question. You can either pull the intake manifold and check for oil in your intake ports off the head or remove the valve cover and pour oil over the valves while pressure testing.

4. Keep in mind that if the wet compression test increases your compression number by a lot, you can also be leaking pressure through the rings into the crankcase since one combustion chamber (one at a time, which one depends on the position of the motor) will always be pressurized during a static intake pressure test.

5. I'm assuming your breather valve is vented since you avoided discussing it, this is one of the most common cause of dipstick blow out under boost. If so, you need to reroute it back to the intake pipe while using a Husky oil catch can/separator to prevent oil from entering your intake tract.

Thanxs oldman

No problem.

 

[matt98eclipse]

I will do a wet and dry test tomorrow and let you guys know!!

 

[95blackGsTurbo]

Got a question Bruce. I have done some wet/dry tests with no change in results even though the problems turned out to be bad rings. I found out that the oil I put in just sat in the dish of the pistons and never ran out into the rings, how much oil do you recommend using?

 

[oldman]

Got a question Bruce. I have done some wet/dry tests with no change in results even though the problems turned out to be bad rings. I found out that the oil I put in just sat in the dish of the pistons and never ran out into the rings, how much oil do you recommend using?

A cap full is all you need Adam. Oil should slide down the cylinder walls unless you can accurately pour oil right down the spark plug hole without touching the threads. With that said, a leakdown is obviously a better test but most has no immediate access to a leakdown tester.

 

[matt98eclipse]

Hey guys I forgot to mention that I redid my timing belt due to my intake cam was off 1 tooth. After i redid the timing belt the car ran ALOT smoothier no misfires or anything but then here a couple daya ago I have been noticeing my cars been misfiring pretty bad for some reason!! Could this have something to due with my blowby???? Its also really weird cus the car doesn't smoke at all that i see! Even in boost!!!

How much longer do u guys think my motor will last??

 

[matt98eclipse]

UPDATE: Did a compression test tonight and heres what a got

cylinder 1, 145 2, 140 3, 145 4, 165

for some reason cylinder 4 went alot higher then last time!! last time was about a month ago and got around 145 in all cylinders

 

[oldman]

What happened to the wet test?

 

[matt98eclipse]

Sorry bruce I had forgot after i was already completly done! With the readings what do u think?

 

[oldman]

Sorry bruce I had forgot after i was already completly done! With the readings what do u think?

Same as what I said before, inconclusive until a wet test is followed immediately after.

145 is not exactly healthy. Repeat the test with engine fully warmed up, throttle fully applied, battery fully charged and with all four plugs removed. then IMMEDIATELY follow it up with wet test.

 

[matt98eclipse]

K thanxs, ill have to do it tomorrow and do a wet test this time to sorry w


I did the test as fallowed above!!

 

[oldman]

I did the test as fallowed above!!

At least you can follow some directions.

The reason you want to do it immediately after is because you want both dry and wet to be done under the same exact conditions in order for a fair and accurate comparison.