Dipstick Dip Stick popped, popping, blow, blowing, blew out [Merged]

[scrcco]

I just installed a different head after my timing belt went. Everything is back together and the break-in period is over. Last night i revved past 5,000 rpm. for the first time and noticed it was struggling, I let off at 5,500. Then a riced-out Honda cruised by so i stepped on it, went to about 6,000 rpm's, now theres a huge cloud of smoke behind my car. I opened the hood to notice my dipstick shot up, and oil sprayed all over the underneath of my hood, then dripped all over the motor and exhaust. What could be the problem? I already replaced the PCV valve and does the same thing???

 

[sag1441]

go to the dealer and buy a new dipstick also, maybe like 12 dollars. an old dipstick may shoot out becuase the rubber at the top of the stick is old cracked and shrunken

 

[ChiGGz]

I must be getting some sort of unrelieved crank pressure.

I regularly check my oil levels (weekly) and i find after a drive, not even in boost the dipstick would be unreadable cause the oil has gone up lass than an inch past the high mark. You can see plainly that it's splatter and not the oil level rising. Letting it settle for like 15 mins solves that.

The car has no PCV valve atm (no criticism unless it's affecting my situation.)
both valve ports are routed to a oil filter / catch can. So why isn't the crank pressure being removed?

 

[xveganxcowboyx]

What happens after the catch can. Having a vacuum source on the end would be helpful.

Hows your compression?

 

[ChiGGz]

After the catch can it dumps onto the floor..only when I release it though. Otherwise it vents through the oil filter.

I do want to go back to the orig PCV setup since I'm tired of the stench from the oil filter being released into the car.

Will do compression test this weekend.. Will my current PCV setup have any effect on a compression test?

 

[xveganxcowboyx]

It shouldn't.

I would buy a new PCV at the dealer and put it back in.

The other line can be left as is, though routing back to the intake tube after the catch can is a good idea.

 

[ChiGGz]

It shouldn't.

I would buy a new PCV at the dealer and put it back in.

The other line can be left as is, though routing back to the intake tube after the catch can is a good idea.

From what I think though, the PCV doesn't contribute to my pressure does it? If there's excess pressure it will blow out.

 

[95-talontsi]

Maybe I dont understand what your saying, but from the sounds of it your driving your car then pulling the dipstick out and checking the oil level with out wiping the oil off and putting it back in to check it? oil moves around when you drive its going to move up on the dipstick this has nothing to do with crankcase pressure.

 

[xveganxcowboyx]

Maybe I dont understand what your saying, but from the sounds of it your driving your car then pulling the dipstick out and checking the oil level with out wiping the oil off and putting it back in to check it? oil moves around when you drive its going to move up on the dipstick this has nothing to do with crankcase pressure.

This is also true. Pulling it straight out after driving won't give you an accurate reading. You should just be happy you're not popping the dipstick straight out like the rest of us


Not having the PCV eliminates one possibility for adding pressure to the head, but it also mucks up the system to alleviate pressure when it's there. I'd do a search. This has all been discussed many times. The general concensus seems to be that a street driven car should keep the PCV setup stock. If anything just add a catch can between the two (tight clearance...).

 

[ChiGGz]

Maybe I dont understand what your saying, but from the sounds of it your driving your car then pulling the dipstick out and checking the oil level with out wiping the oil off and putting it back in to check it? oil moves around when you drive its going to move up on the dipstick this has nothing to do with crankcase pressure.

Your sorta on the right track and probably right as well.
I drive my car, turn it off, check the dipstick, obviously splatter right? I wipe it off, and instantly check again, still splatter all over the stick probably cause oil has made its way through the dipstick tube??. It's never blown out yet though.

 

[95-talontsi]

How much oil do you put in your motor? What weight of oil are you using? A heavier oil will take a little more time to run back out from the dipstick obviously.

I work at a lube shop and am checking oil on all kinds of different cars all day, some cars it will have the splatter your talking about but its no big deal.

Also if your not blowing your dipstick out, I doubt you have any crank case pressure problems.

 

[krummel21]

I just purchased a new dipstick and this is happening to me when I am under boost. Does this mean my engine is about to die? When doing a boost leak test the air never stays in the engine it always escapes ou with no boost leaks. I thiknk I'm hearing it got out through the oil pan does this make sense?

thanks,
Krummel21

 

[Mikelb]

I just purchased a new dipstick and this is happening to me when I am under boost. Does this mean my engine is about to die? When doing a boost leak test the air never stays in the engine it always escapes ou with no boost leaks. I thiknk I'm hearing it got out through the oil pan does this make sense?

thanks,
Krummel21

That sounds like your piston rings are leaking. Try doing a compression test, and even a leakdown test. That will tell you more about the condition of your engine. (If you don't know how to do those, search the forums).



Also, a quick and easy fix for the stick to pop out, is to take a pair of pliers and lightly crimp the dipstick tube until it no longer blows out.

I had this problem after buying a new VC, only to find out that it was a bad PCV valve. Though shortly after, I had the problem again. The heat had turned the rubber on the dipstick into plastic, and it kept blowing out of it's hole. Crimping was cheaper than buying a new dipstick

 

[laserspeeddemon]

Crimping may be cheaper, but it's the wrong way to go. That is because when you crimp, the now plastic like seal on the dipstick has a gap between it and the inner wall of the dipstick tube. The dip stick may stay put but oil will still get out if the PCV is bad and/or the cylinders are leaking pressure into the crankcase.

 

[Mikelb]

Crimping may be cheaper, but it's the wrong way to go. That is because when you crimp, the now plastic like seal on the dipstick tube has a gap between it and the inner wall of the dipstick tube. The dip stick may stay put but oil will still get out if the PCV is bad and/or the cylinders are leaking pressure into the crankcase.

Luckily I don't have that problem either. All my oil leaks from my Valve cover and not the dipstick

 

[laserspeeddemon]

It's on a case by case basis, things effect whether or not oil will seep out and how much. Things like the amount of pressure in the crank case as well as the amount of oil. If you are low on oil you may not see ANY oil seeping from this fix.

 

[romeen]

haha, gotta love our DSM's, this is normal, it will happen

The crankcase being pressurized is definitely not normal. Unfortunately you are right in that it does happen. Typically this is because of modifications to the stock crankcase ventilation system.

I clamped a spring on the dipstick tube and attached it to the dipstick. Mine always popped out...least of my problems. I'd think nothing of it.

Also, a quick and easy fix for the stick to pop out, is to take a pair of pliers and lightly crimp the dipstick tube until it no longer blows out.

I had this problem after buying a new VC, only to find out that it was a bad PCV valve. Though shortly after, I had the problem again. The heat had turned the rubber on the dipstick into plastic, and it kept blowing out of it's hole. Crimping was cheaper than buying a new dipstick

Crimping the end of the dipstick tube may very well work to keep it from popping out but it is not addressing the underlying problem. You wouldn't want to disconnect your boost guage in order to avoid seeing the fact that you are overboosting and damaging your engine would you?

The problem could be from:

1) Your crankcase ventilation is functioning but the amount of blow-by is so much that it can't keep up (not common).

2) The amount of blow-by is within acceptable limits but the ventilation is inadequate (more likely).

3) A combination of both.


Things to check:

1) Vacuum level at idle. Should be 18-22inHg. If it's low do a boost leak test and fix all leaks.

2) PCV valve. When doing a boost leak test make sure no air is escaping past the valve. Make sure it is not clogged by checking for vacuum when at idle. Always replace with an oem valve.

3) Valve cover breather should be connected to intake pipe. Don't use breather filters. There are numerous reasons not to use one.

4) Compression test. Make sure it is not excessive blow-by from poor sealing between ring and cylinder wall.

Unless you are using an aftermarket vacuum pump, the stock crankcase ventilation system is the best way to go. There are ways of addressing some of the weaknesses in the stock system with the use of catch cans and check valves. There are some good threads discussing this in detail if you search.

Remember that excessive pressure in the crankcase (which can blow out gaskets) is only part of the problem. More damaging is the fact that the blow-by gases that are not removed end up in your oil. The acids and other corrosive substances as well as moisture will break down your oil leading to premature engine wear.

A lot of experienced and knowledgeable members (oldman in particular) have put a great deal of time and effort into studying the matter. Use this experience to avoid these problems. But don't tell Bruce about the compliment. That old fart already gets enough praise.

 

[oldman]

Couldn't have agree with romeen more, especially the last part.

In all seriousness, crimping the dipstick tube is absolutely the worst thing you can do in this situation (ask me how I know ), not taking your physcian's call doesn't mean you're cured, you're simply passing on the excessive crankcase pressure to others such as internal seals, gaskets, valves seals, turbo seal......etc. Unless a compression/leakdown test clearly points to excessive blowby (poor ring seal), I'm willing to bet most of you having this problem have either your PCV, breather or both vented to the atmosphere instead of properly re-routed back to their respective stock locations, intake manifold and intake pipe.

 

[Deadly BlaZe]

Couldn't have agree with romeen more, especially the last part.

In all seriousness, crimping the dipstick tube is absolutely the worst thing you can do in this situation (ask me how I know ), not taking your physcian's call doesn't mean you're cured, you're simply passing on the excessive crankcase pressure to others such as internal seals, gaskets, valves seals, turbo seal......etc. Unless a compression/leakdown test clearly points to excessive blowby (poor ring seal), I'm willing to bet most of you having this problem have either your PCV, breather or both vented to the atmosphere instead of properly re-routed back to their respective stock locations, intake manifold and intake pipe.

On my first dsm, I blame the blown engine on the fact that i pinched my dipstick tube closed.

On my current dsm, my hard intake pipe doesn't have a hole for the breather hose so i connected the hose to a filter (not a breather filter, more like a plastic housing with a foamy filter type thing) and my dipstick never once popped up and oil isn't popping up from anywhere abnormally. So i'm assuming its ok.

 

[oldman]

On my current dsm, my hard intake pipe doesn't have a hole for the breather hose so i connected the hose to a filter (not a breather filter, more like a plastic housing with a foamy filter type thing) and my dipstick never once popped up and oil is popping up from anywhere abnormally. So i'm assuming its ok.

It might be acceptable but it's far from optimal. http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=254437

It's really not all that difficult to drill and tap your own fitting.

 

[Larry L]

I just ran a spring from my dip stick to the bolt on my power steering unit, and problem solved.

 

[steve_8475]

sorry to ruin your day bud, but keeping the dipstick to stay in place is ###### on an 1/8 of your problems. the same thing was happening to my car and i wrapped the rubber part on the dipstick with electrical tape, and it stayed in but the car ran worst and worst everyday... just so you know my engine is completly apart now, and 2 of the pistons were cracked around and beneath the first ring, so good luck with it, looks like you'll be doing a build like me

 

[oldman]

I just ran a spring from my dip stick to the bolt on my power steering unit, and problem solved.

Did you only read the first post?

 

[krummel21]

Sorry I have just gotten back to the forum to see what people thought my problem was. I did a compression test a couple months ago and everything was with in the limits. I can definately do another one but it'll be a couple of weeks.

The valve on the valve cover that is on the passenger side I just have a hose running off it directing downward, could this be the problem? Where is that hose suppose to go? Where is the PCV valve and where should be recirculated to?

Thanks,
Krummel21

 

[oldman]

Are you serious? Did you click and read the links in post #14?

 

[romeen]

The valve on the valve cover that is on the passenger side I just have a hose running off it directing downward, could this be the problem? Where is that hose suppose to go? Where is the PCV valve and where should be recirculated to?

I didn't realize until now that this is a two and a half year old thread that you brought back. That's good though as this is still a very misunderstood topic and clearly there are alot of guys reading this who have modified their setups and are not getting proper crankcase ventilation.

The hose that is attached to the nipple located on the passenger side of the valve cover should be attached to a nipple on the intake pipe. I don't know if the FP pipe that you have has a fitting for this. If not it would be easy enough to drill and tap for a 1/4" NPT nipple. This way the high velocity intake air when you are under boost will create low pressure to ventilate the crankcase when the PCV valve is closed. It is a good idea to run a sealed catch can inline with this to keep oily residue out of your intake/intercooler. Check out the thread that oldman linked to in post #14 for more info on this.

The PCV valve is located on the back (firewall) side of the valve cover towards the passenger side. It is threaded in and has a 14mm hexagonal body. It should be connected to a nipple on the intake manifold by way of a short vacuum hose. If you're not sure when the last time it was replaced was it would be a good idea to go ahead and do that now. Do not replace it with a parts store unit. Use only oem replacements for the PCV. They only cost about $6.

Rereading your initial post (#6) it definitely sounds to me as if your PCV valve is leaking. The fact that you don't have the breather hooked up to the intake is compounding the problem. One way you can check it is to unscrew the PCV from the VC but leave it hooked up to the vacuum hose/intake manifold. Repeat the boost leak test. Check for air escaping past the valve (it's not supposed to). Unfortunately there is a good chance that the new one may leak also. If that is the case there is a thread that talks about an inexpensive check valve to remedy this situation. It is long but contains some good info that is relevant to this topic. I'll find it for you and post back.

It's good that I am in a typing mood, huh?

Here it is: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=229338post#38
Read from post #38 on for the most relevant portions.