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Dipstick Dip Stick popped, popping, blow, blowing, blew out [Merged]

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scrcco

20+ Year Contributor
39
2
Jun 10, 2002
Bowie, Maryland
I just installed a different head after my timing belt went. Everything is back together and the break-in period is over. Last night i revved past 5,000 rpm. for the first time and noticed it was struggling, I let off at 5,500. Then a riced-out Honda cruised by so i stepped on it, went to about 6,000 rpm's, now theres a huge cloud of smoke behind my car. I opened the hood to notice my dipstick shot up, and oil sprayed all over the underneath of my hood, then dripped all over the motor and exhaust. What could be the problem? I already replaced the PCV valve and does the same thing???
 
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This is basically what I did: http://www.tgilmore.com/talon/catchcan.html
except the hose leading to the intake is just pointing to the ground.

I just realized this thread is 2 years old too.

Well first of all, if the hose is not connected to the intake then there isn't much point in using the filter as the whole idea is to keep oily buildup out of the intake/intercooler.

But the main problem is that under boost there is no active vacuum working to ventilate the crankcase. At best, your PCV valve will seal tightly like it should and you will get some passive venting of the crankcase through the dangling hose. The evacuation of blow-by out of the crankcase will most likely be incomplete.

At worst, your PCV valve is leaking under boost (it seems like most of them do) and between that and blow-by accumulation your crankcase is getting pressurized and blow-by gases are getting absorbed into the oil.

Bruce used a very good analogy once. If you are trying to ventilate a smoky room do you think it would be more effective to have an open window allowing the smoke to slowly work it's way out. Or would you rather have an open window with a fan actively pulling the smoke out. In your case it's like having an open window with a partially clogged screen on it.:p

Finally, under vacuum you are pulling in unmetered air into the motor.
 
Bruce used a very good analogy once. If you are trying to ventilate a smoky room do you think it would be more effective to have an open window allowing the smoke to slowly work it's way out. Or would you rather have an open window with a fan actively pulling the smoke out. In your case it's like having an open window with a partially clogged screen on it.:p

Not the best analogy, since smoke is not pressurized. The goal of the crankcase ventilation system is not just to get bad air out the crankcase, the goal is more to get pressurized air out the crank. A better analogy would be would you rather get compressed (smokey) air through a straw or through a window. When people by by-pass both PCV and breather hose on the VC, then all that air has one small tube to come out of. Now if the crank pressure is bad enough the it will force it's way out by other means, like the oil deepstick as seen here. When people crimp that hose and enough air can't escape you see the issues like oldman said, like leaking "internal seals, gaskets, valves seals, turbo seal." When I was new to DSMs I did exactly this. I couldn't figure out why my VC gasket kept leaking, even though I reenforced the gasket with RTV.

After research and help from DSMTuners, I found that my breather hose (which was directed to the ground) was kinked from the way it pointed straight down, my PCV was leaking boost, and my dipstick tube was crimped. So that air was busting through the oil pan gasket and the VC gasket.
 
Well first of all, if the hose is not connected to the intake then there isn't much point in using the filter as the whole idea is to keep oily buildup out of the intake/intercooler.

Finally, under vacuum you are pulling in unmetered air into the motor.

So is what i'm doing harmful at all? There are no oil leaks or anything under the hood and dipstick does not pop up at all. Should i be worried enough to hurry up and make a tap in my intake pipe for the hose?
 
So is what i'm doing harmful at all? There are no oil leaks or anything under the hood and dipstick does not pop up at all. Should i be worried enough to hurry up and make a tap in my intake pipe for the hose?

As I mentioned in post #11, even more damaging than the excessive pressure is the contamination and dilution of the oil. Blow by gases contain acids, water vapor and other corrosive substances. If not thoroughly evacuated these things will mix with the oil spray created by the spinning crankshaft.

It's actually a double whammy because the since the oil cannot lubricate as effectively you now end up getting even more scouring of the cylinder walls. This poorer seal between the rings and cylinder allows even more blow by past and into the crankcase and it turns into a vicious cycle.

I don't think you need to take a day off to tap your pipe as it's not going to destroy things overnight. But I would do it first chance you get. I would recommend changing your oil at that time. An interesting thing you can try is save a bit of the oil in a small container. The following time you change your oil (after reverting back to the stock configuration) compare how the used oils look and smell. I can confidently say that this current oil will be much thinner, darker and smell of fuel and other noxious things.;) (Don't ask me how I know :coy: ).

:D
 
I don't want to drill into the intake pipe so could I just install the npt valve in the recirculaiton tube? Probly a stupid question but I just want to make sure I'm not going to have a problem. Think I'm going to get one of these,

http://www.z06vette.com/forums/printthread.php?t=73303

and just put a new PVC valve on the valve cover and see what happens.

thanks,
Krummel21
 
I don't want to drill into the intake pipe so could I just install the npt valve in the recirculaiton tube?

Are you talking about the rubber tube from BOV to intake pipe? If so I don't think that it will work. First of all I'm not sure if you would get a secure connection for the fitting in a rubber tube. Unless I am misunerstanding you or missing something.

But if I am understanding your intention then I would be concerned about the fact that the recirc tube is not directly in the air stream. This may affect the amount of vacuum that it sees under boost. I could be wrong but personally I wouldn't want to take a chance.

If you are concerned about ruining the cosmetic value of the FP pipe one option is to drill and tap on the under side of it where it will not be visible. I saw this in another thread earlier today, I believe it was daren p who did it this way.
 
Well I replaced my pcv valve and put a fram g2 fuel filter on my valve cover breather hose. I then took it for a drive and I was doing a 3rd gear pull and could smell oil so i pulled over and popped the hood to see my dipstick had popped up and blown oil all over the engine bay. The rubber on the dipstick is pretty hard and it doesnt feel like it seals very well. This has never happened before so i was thinking maybe the pcv valve i bought is bad or something? Any and all help is greatly appreciated
 
Yeah, it's a pretty common problem. You can try crimping the dipstick tube a bit or buying a new dipstick, but it probably won't help. I ended up just wiring it shut. Put a small worm hose clamp just below the top of the tube. Then take a zip tie and run it through the dip stick handle. Wrap it around the thick part of the hose clamp and tighten. You don't want to go super tight because if you get the right tension, it will hold the dipstick on and when you want to check the oil, you can flick the ziptie off the clamp, then put it back on when you're done.
 
Most of the parts store PCV valves leak boost and cause high crankcase pressures. I would get a factory pcv valve or get a catch can and eliminate the valve.
 
How is getting a catch can and removing the valve going to keep the boost out of the VC?

You're right though that the problem is most likely a faulty PCV valve, the Autozone/Schucks valves are garbarge right out of the box. What you need to do is get a check valve from USPlastics.com and install it between your PCV valve (whether is working or not) and your IM. That will keep the boost out of your VC effectivly and will last a lot longer then even an OEM PCV valve.
 
How is getting a catch can and removing the valve going to keep the boost out of the VC?

I guess I should've added that you would have to re-route the two lines from the valve cover. Disconnect the line going to the intake manifold and run it to the catch can, disconnect the line going to the intake pipe and connect it to the catch can as well. So now both lines coming from the valve cover are going to a vented catch can, and the boosted line going to the PCV valve is no longer pushing boost into the crankcase. Now you have two vents while under boost instead of just one.
 
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