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Did I damage my Valve and Valve Spring

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xion0374

Probationary Member
14
0
Oct 25, 2010
St.Paul, Minnesota
Hey Guys,
I want to ask ya to see if ya can help me figure out this issue. I was driving home last night from work and was tinkering with my boost controller.

Heres my boost controller setup:
Set: 20%
Gain: 5%
Set Gain: 12.5 / Actuator PSI: 14
Warning: 18
Limitor: 5%

So I was tuning my boost controller to get a steady boost and I WOT on 3rd geared up to about 5500rpm and notice that the rpm stick kept jumping higher, more like a spike jump then slow down and spike jump again. After my limitor kicked in I left off the gas and checked my peak boost, and I was hanging around 20 to 21 psi.

When I came to a red light, I can feel that I barely have any power or some sort, every time I drive the rpm up to 3000, i can hear the rattling noise comming from my engine.

I took it to autozone, and ask one of the guys to help me check out the problem, and he said sounds like I have a bent valve or damage valve. I also called my buddy who worked on my car and ask him how would a damage valve sound like, and he said it would sound like a ticking sound or rattling sound, and over time it will get worse if i dont fix it.

So did my boosting of 20 to 21 psi cause the damage to my valve, or was it something else, cause I tried this on another night ago and my car was fine, and last night I got this issue. Im so worried about my car right now, freaking out atm.

So guys what are my option in terms to fixing it.
And did I really damage my valve.
 
Do a compression test and a leakdown test. That'll tell you if you have top end problems.
 
I know Im leaking pressure, but what I wanted to know was if I damage my valves, when I rev my engine up to 3000 rpm or so, i can hear a ticking/rattling noise coming from the engine bay, but Im not really sure if its damage or not.
 
Man, how would I do a compression test, I dont even have the proper tools to work on my car atm, since Im only living with my uncle and he doesnt have the right tools that I would need to do it with.
 
A compression test takes 30 mins tops. It requires a spark plug socket, a socket wrench and a compression tester you can get for $20 at autozone.

If you cant afford $20 just yet, dont drive your car until you figure this out. You dont want to cause more damage.
 
chances are your timing belt has slipped a few teeth. run a compression test as stated and find out which cylinder is low.
 
Man, how would I do a compression test, I dont even have the proper tools to work on my car atm, since Im only living with my uncle and he doesnt have the right tools that I would need to do it with.

Start by reading this:

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-engine-fuel/338152-compression-leak-down-testing.html

chances are your timing belt has slipped a few teeth. run a compression test as stated and find out which cylinder is low.

If the t-belt slipped a couple of teeth, a compression test is just going to do more damage than good depending on how far it jumped. The OP can easily verify whether or not the timing has jumped by seeing if the marks line up. If it has jumped, there's no reason for the compression test.
 
Start by reading this:

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-engine-fuel/338152-compression-leak-down-testing.html



If the t-belt slipped a couple of teeth, a compression test is just going to do more damage than good depending on how far it jumped. The OP can easily verify whether or not the timing has jumped by seeing if the marks line up. If it has jumped, there's no reason for the compression test.

Which marking on the cam gears am I going to be looking for.
 
Dam Im clueless even looking at the diaphragm, sorry guys im not a car junkie, but ill take a look at it and see what i can find.

ok I get the idea of doing the compression test, but should i disable the ecu or disable something that wont let the engine start completly or ###, i just need to turn it over so i can get some pressure into the engine.

How do I disable the ignition system.
How do I disable the coil pack system or distributor electrical wire.
How do I disable the fuel system or which relay fuse color is it.

I believe these are the steps needed to performed the compression test.

And if not can someone please give me the proper steps in plain english to performed a compression test, a step by step procedure would be nice.
 
A simple way is disconnect your coil pack and your injector, them warm up your car and do the compression test;you can do it with or without oil on top of the piston.

I'm sure you can find a step by step guide, there's lots of them.
 
Worst case scenario is buying a new head or brand new valves and springs, also worried about my piston as well too, sigh......:cry:

But right now I need to buy a spare car first, winter is coming and I'll put my eclipse off till spring, I will do the compression this week to find out if my leaking any pressure at all, and will check and see if my timing belt have jumped or not.

sigh.........:cry:
 
Dam Im clueless even looking at the diaphragm, sorry guys im not a car junkie, but ill take a look at it and see what i can find.

ok I get the idea of doing the compression test, but should i disable the ecu or disable something that wont let the engine start completly or ###, i just need to turn it over so i can get some pressure into the engine.

How do I disable the ignition system.
How do I disable the coil pack system or distributor electrical wire.
How do I disable the fuel system or which relay fuse color is it.


I believe these are the steps needed to performed the compression test.

And if not can someone please give me the proper steps in plain english to performed a compression test, a step by step procedure would be nice.

A simple way is disconnect your coil pack and your injector, them warm up your car and do the compression test;you can do it with or without oil on top of the piston.

I'm sure you can find a step by step guide, there's lots of them.


Easiest way to disable spark and fuel (at least on a 2G) is to pull the "ENGINE" fuse. It's a 20A fuse located in the fuse box that is in the engine bay. It will be in the center of the top row of fuses and is labeled "ENGINE/MOTEUR". Just remove it for the test and you won't have to worry about disconnecting anything else.


You might also want to remove the valve cover and rotate the motor by hand to see if all the valves are moving freely. You can also check to make sure that a lifter didn't pop off.
 
reving the car to 5500 should not harm a valve/spring..... unless the spring broke, if thats the case you would have a bad miss and the engine would shake

the only way 20/21 psi would hurt a valve is if you ran lean and warped an intake valve or burnt and exhaust valve
 
reving the car to 5500 should not harm a valve/spring..... unless the spring broke, if thats the case you would have a bad miss and the engine would shake

the only way 20/21 psi would hurt a valve is if you ran lean and warped an intake valve or burnt and exhaust valve

No I didnt rev my engine to 5500rpm, I was merely tuning my boost controller on the highway.

And I know I wasnt running lean, I was more of running rich since the car wasnt tune yet.

So gonna check on my car today, hope things goes well.
 
No I didnt rev my engine to 5500rpm, I was merely tuning my boost controller on the highway.

And I know I wasnt running lean, I was more of running rich since the car wasnt tune yet.

So gonna check on my car today, hope things goes well.


you stated in your original post that you hit the limiter.......:confused:
 
you stated in your original post that you hit the limiter.......:confused:

No the limitor which I set at 4% kick in when the warning which I set at 18psi was reach. When boost went up to 18psi and beyound, the warning kicks in and the limitor kicks in as well to prevent over boosting.
 
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