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valve spring replacement

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Titanium Man

Probationary Member
14
0
May 21, 2012
Brooklyn, New York
How do you do it with the head still on the car? Is it something that can be done by one person? or without compressed air? I have done it on a 2 valve non interference motor. I just want to know how easy it is to work on these. Thanks!
 
You can use compressed air to keep the valves closed (100+ psi) and then there is the use of nylon rope and you hand turn the crank untill the piston pushes the rope against the valves keeping them closed.
 
My favorite method:

Put the cylinder your working on at BDC. Stuff some rope into the cylinder through the spark plug hole. A foot or so should work. Then slowly rotate that cylinder to TDC, or as close as you can get. Once you feel a little resistance, stop and put something against the crank to keep it in position. Use whatever tools you have to compress the spring and remove the keepers. (This thing is amazing at doing the job: Click) Then remove the spring and retainer, install new stuff, and reinstall the keepers. Rotate the engine a bit towards BDC again and remove the rope.
 
Thank you. I have read here that it is hard to remove the spring with a typical spring compressor. Can you provide a link to the one needed for the job?

I am about to purchase a wide block motor that has
272 BC cams. apparently they can work with stock springs and retainers and I will want to upgrade to something better.

Let me ask another newb question
How much can a 4g63 motor take RELIABLY. Here is what the motor has. Not mine yet, I am getting ready to buy it

8.3:1 87mm bore
ARP Main studs
ARP Head Studs
Cometic HG .051"
Eagle rods
Wiseco Pistons
ACL bearings
BC 272's
no porting
6 bolt
it does not have a girdle. It will have a magnus intake for the 1g head(old version)
it is going to run e85 and it will get 1000cc Injector dynamics
Already got an excellent tuner.

oh and the turbo is sc63 t4 ptim .58 turbine this is on my current engine (2.6)
 
Just to let you know this will be occasional drag car. My goal is to run mid to high ten's. It will mostly be a street car but NOT a DD.

I don't have access to a compressor.

Now ptw clearance and wrist pin? I assume this is where you get into the "real" drag cars?
Definitely not looking for 1000hp yet...
Definately want 600 though.

I am running wolf engine management.
 
Just to let you know this will be occasional drag car. My goal is to run mid to high ten's. It will mostly be a street car but NOT a DD.

I don't have access to a compressor.

Now ptw clearance and wrist pin? I assume this is where you get into the "real" drag cars?
Definitely not looking for 1000hp yet...
Definately want 600 though.

I am running wolf engine management.

Keltalon broke his wristpins just under 600. Also at those levels you want a looser ptw
 
so without the thicker wrist pin i should keep it under 600?
is there a failure rate that has been captured for this or it just randomly happens.
 
I don't agree that all Wiseco pistons will break at 600hp just because one person had a bad experience. Guys have gone much higher than 600hp on typical forged pistons like JE and CP that don't have ultra-hardened chromoly tool-steel wrist pins. There are guys in the 8's and 9's with Wiseco's, including the fastest HX40 powered DSM, and that's just the guys that I know of. I'm sure there are faster ones out there.

More than likely, a standard Wiseco breaking at 600hp is a result of a manufacturing flaw or poor tune, not design flaw.
 
got it

So when doing the rope method, I assume I can do all 4 of those valves for the cylinder with the rope. I did this on my G54b It was nerve racking but I got it done. Boy was I proud of myself!
 
<-- also make well over 600 awhp on off the shelf wiseco's.
Don't waste your time with jamming rope into your cylinders. ( I never did, and i did all my valve springs in no time) Just put what correlating piston all the way up when doing said springs. The valve will only fall a little bit.

I use this one made for our engines.
Mitsubishi 4G63 Valve Spring Compressor

It works well. Use a little grease on the keepers and the supplied tool to stick the keepers back in.
 
If you want too. I don't think it will make a difference. Your valves can't fall down into the cylinders but they will drop little bit. This is also a good time to toss some new valve seals in, as there are right there &#61514;
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I don't think it will be necessary to do the seals since the motor is freshly built. The person selling it has BC cams on stock springs and I want to change it to something better. Am I wasting my time? If not any recommendations?

it has gallant cam gears and timing belt. Because of the taller deck etc. Am I going to need adjustable cam gears for the BC cams? Thanks
 
I don't think it will be necessary to do the seals since the motor is freshly built. The person selling it has BC cams on stock springs and I want to change it to something better. Am I wasting my time? If not any recommendations?

it has gallant cam gears and timing belt. Because of the taller deck etc. Am I going to need adjustable cam gears for the BC cams? Thanks

Sorry I forgot about this thread.

Brian Crower states that you do not need upgraded springs until you get to their 280 duration cams. However it would be a good idea and you can squeeze out a few more rpm's on your redline without floating a valve. So no, for the price and time it is not a waste.

No, you will not need adjustable cam gears to run those cams. You can gain some hp by getting adjustable gears and degree them in. (confusing time-consuming process) Gains vary per setup.
 
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