The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Cylinder wall scratch. Bore or not?

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

talonsteve25

10+ Year Contributor
247
0
Jun 21, 2008
calgary, AB, Canada
So just the other day my dad found a scratch on both 1 and 2 cylinders. The scratch in 1 is about 1 and a half inches and 2 about a half inch long. But i didnt even notice them they were so small, but you can feel them with a finger nail. So i was wondering how deep they have to be or how bad for me to have to go and bore the motor?
I can take some pictures if needed to.
 
With those scratches, you may have a touch of oil smoke. But they are not an engine killer.
 
With those scratches, you may have a touch of oil smoke. But they are not an engine killer.

This. The "damages" to the cyl wall isn't as bad as I thought. I would just run the car like it is now. But once you free up some cash & down time & would just start fresh with a bore & hone.
 
Is there a reason you'd also need new rods? A machine shop should only charge around 15-20 per hole on a bore, sell the new pistons you've already got and get the .020 over pistons. Youd be in it $80 or so for a bore and the difference of what you sell your pistons for to get new ones.

Just another perspective.

It would suck to put in all that work and be unhappy about the fact your new engine burns oil... I personally wouldn't "live" with that
 
Is there a reason you'd also need new rods? A machine shop should only charge around 15-20 per hole on a bore, sell the new pistons you've already got and get the .020 over pistons. Youd be in it $80 or so for a bore and the difference of what you sell your pistons for to get new ones.

Just another perspective.

It would suck to put in all that work and be unhappy about the fact your new engine burns oil... I personally wouldn't "live" with that


You are right, the block should have been bored to start and the proper sized pistons hung on the rods.

Here is the kicker tho, a good chance the new pistons on the rods will be junk when they are pressed off. They will deform, crack or just bust into pieces when removed. Press fit pistons have that habit.

So The $80 bore hone, will add $40-$60 to R&R pistons, plus the cost of the piston and ring set, plus the rebalance of the engine if it was done before.

So about another $300-500 spent.
 
You are right, the block should have been bored to start and the proper sized pistons hung on the rods.

Here is the kicker tho, a good chance the new pistons on the rods will be junk when they are pressed off. They will deform, crack or just bust into pieces when removed. Press fit pistons have that habit.

So The $80 bore hone, will add $40-$60 to R&R pistons, plus the cost of the piston and ring set, plus the rebalance of the engine if it was done before.

So about another $300-500 spent.

So brand new pistons can't be taken off a rod? I mean I could see for instance my 193k pistons just crumbling at the sight a of a press, but un-run pistons are just stuck there for good... I don't think this needs to be an arguement but i do disagree.

But to take your advice... so he has pistons and rods to sell now. Gets back 80% of his $ towards another set, then spends $80 on a bore... still don't even see a $200 difference unless he's getting like $1600 worth of pistons and rods in place of his say $700 setup he has now
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top