Cylinder pictures

[Knuckles2.0]

Take a look at my cylinders. The car was smoking and i couldn't find anything with a leakdown and the compression was right at service limit.

 

[beatshack]

Pictures of the tops of the pistons is not enough to determine the damage. You have to remove the pistons and look at the rings and ring seatings to see the real damage.

 

[blackGSX2g]

When was it smoking and what color was it?

 

[Knuckles2.0]

I dont want you guys to look atthe top of the piston i want you to look at the cylinder walls they seem like they are in good shape to me.

it was oil smoke, it would smoke when i shifted the most but it would always leave a little trail of blue smoke behinde me and the power loss was very noticable

 

[GVR4592]

There's no way to tell without measuring the bore. It could have a taper and that's not something you can see with your eyes, it takes the right equipment. At the least you will need new rings and a hone, but I would check the bore or take the block to a machine shop that can do it for you.

 

[beatshack]

if it left blue smoke behind you there are three possible causes.. 1) your rings are worn and oil is slipping past them. 2) your valve seals are gone and oil is slipping past them (do you get a puff of blue smoke on start up?) 3) your head gasket it blown at an oil passage.. probably the least likely of the 3.

 

[Big Woo]

You could also have a bad or worn valve guides.

However since you mentioned that your compression check showed that you were at the service limit, i would suspect that you have a compression leak in addition to using oil.

Many things can cause a loss in cranking compression pressure, such as. worn piston rings, worn cylinders (this maybe out of roundness, taper, surface finish, etc.) worn piston ring grooves, head gasket, intake or exhaust valve leakage.

Since you mentiond that you did a compression check, did you also preform that test wet? This may give some clue as to where the problem lies.

 

[Enraged78]

This could also be a sign from a bad turbo or excessive crankcase pressure. My Evo III GT did it's best James Bond DB7 impression between shifts at WOT. This was with only 6K miles on it. There was some power loss and smoking only on hard driving. My intercooler pipes would become washed with oil. I sent the turbo in for warranty work to find that TC.com diagnosed it as a "defective cartridge".

Matt.

 

[LaN-]

This could also be a sign from a bad turbo or excessive crankcase pressure. My Evo III GT did it's best James Bond DB7 impression between shifts at WOT. This was with only 6K miles on it. There was some power loss and smoking only on hard driving. My intercooler pipes would become washed with oil. I sent the turbo in for warranty work to find that TC.com diagnosed it as a "defective cartridge".

Matt.

sorry to jump off subject but did they up hold the warrenty and give you a new turbo?

 

[Enraged78]

sorry to jump off subject but did they up hold the warrenty and give you a new turbo?

Yes, they shipped me a new turbo. They did not honor the $100.00 warranty check, however. I purchased this turbo when this offer was in effect, and they reneged on it. The turbo they sent me back was also a little wierd. The exhaust housing was "painted" with some kind of coating which was different than the original. Rather than taking any chances, I sold the new turbo they sent me for $400.00, and bought a new MHI Evo III for $460. I lost $60.00, but whatever. You live, you learn. I'm not going to speak ill of TC.com, but I will not buy another GT turbo or recommend one to my friends. In the meantime, my MHI Evo III has been great, aside from a nice case of boost creep. The difference between the two turbos has been fairly negligable. They looked, sounded, and performed nearly identical. The GT took slightly longer to spool, but had a few lb/min. more up top according to DSMLink.

Bottom line: The MHI Evo III is cheaper, and very well proven. You really can't go wrong with it.

Matt.

 

[92redman]

There's no way to tell without measuring the bore. It could have a taper and that's not something you can see with your eyes, it takes the right equipment. At the least you will need new rings and a hone, but I would check the bore or take the block to a machine shop that can do it for you.

Not likely any taper in the cylinder walls, the cross hatch still appears to be there all the way down. If the smoke is coming only after shifts, I would suspect intake guides/seals as the engine vacuum between shifts could pull oil down past the valves. If it seems to only smoke as the boost is coming on, I would vote for turbo also, but since it's already apart might as well get the head checked out.
Have you done anything with this yet?