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Cyclone Intake Manifold..where Can I Get A Gasket Or Make One ???!?!

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1g4g63t

15+ Year Contributor
49
0
Apr 3, 2005
Fort Lauderdale, Florida
like the title says...i have the cyclone intake manifold and i have no gasket for it..where can i get one ..i need it today..if not what can i use to make a gasket so it works like a gasket ? im gonna be running alot of boost and i dont want a boost leak b cuz i used some crappy gasket maker...let me know !!! :cry:
 
Well first off, start planning on a replacement/upgraded intake mani, cause its gonna get annoying losing power at about 6000 ish RPM, but to answer your question, go to Advance Auto, or any parts store and buy some gasket material. Then, cut to fit, and take a wrench and start tapping on the manifold with the gasket material on top. That will cut the gasket out for you. Be careful tho... :thumb:
 
Spell Check?

But yes, I have used that gasket paper stuff a few times, works perfectly with no leaks. Just get the thickest one they have.
 
And you base this on what? The fact that they flow within 1 cfm of a 1g intake manifold? The fact that keydiver makes a chip so that they can work of the ECU like they should? The extra low end tourqe you will get? Im waiting.
 
jdmspilner said:
And you base this on what? The fact that they flow within 1 cfm of a 1g intake manifold? The fact that keydiver makes a chip so that they can work of the ECU like they should? The extra low end tourqe you will get? Im waiting.

I agree under the right conditions they make an excellent street setup with the right turbo.
 
jdmspilner said:
And you base this on what? The fact that they flow within 1 cfm of a 1g intake manifold? The fact that keydiver makes a chip so that they can work of the ECU like they should? The extra low end tourqe you will get? Im waiting.
On the fact that unless you're running a complete Japanese setup, you won't see those vaunted gains. But do come back and tell us if you're the one who gets it to pay off.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=167168

There's reasons why the DSM world isn't riddled with tales of Cyclone advantages, and why they aren't being begged for by everyone.
 
NAPA part number - MS15976...like $6.50

***nevermind...way old thread...suprised it's even open and Defiant hasn't thrown down on it***
 
That's a great link Defiant. It clearly shows how a lot of people hooked it up wrong and bad mouth it, or would rather listen to conjecture and spread misinformation when they have zero experience with it.

Ken Young
 
Well, Fact of the matter is that DSM chips can now control the purge solenoid to act just like the jdm ecu. And can control the RPMs that it opens at. There are great gains to be had under 4000 rpm under boost. On the dyno with 2 back to back runs one run was done with the secondaries tied shut, and another run with the secondaries open the whole time. A 40 ft/lb and 20-25 HP increase in the lower rpm's is nothing to sneeze at. yes if you do it wrong or dont knwo what your doing it wont work like it should. If you do it right (since theres a chip to control it now) it would benifit most street driven awd and heavey FWD cars.
 
jdmspilner said:
On the dyno with 2 back to back runs one run was done with the secondaries tied shut, and another run with the secondaries open the whole time.
Good god, I'd hope there'd be some gain from opening up the intake area by a third.

Come back and tell us about your success once you're done.
 
Defiant, in that thread you linked, you seem to go from inquisitive on the 10th to full out abrasive about the cyclone on the 15th. What evidence made you do this in the span of 5 days, apart from a majority of posts of people that were shown to have it hooked up wrong? Despite the informative posts from people that have taken the time to make it work correctly, e.g. Ken Inn and DSMchips, you appear to be acting, well, defiant.

BTW, I bench tested the cyclone using an adjustable pressure switch ($25) (hobbs is cheaper), a fuel pressure solenoid and boost control solenoid (free), and a small vacuum reservoir since I didn't have the JDM one ($6). It works flawlessly, holding the secondaries closed until my set point of 7psi. I will adjust that pressure based on what the dyno tells me on the 24th of this month. I believe the threshold for keeping them closed is really a matter of airflow (read: turbo compressor map), so rpm is necessary. Currently I will use the EGR 12V switch already on the solenoid wiring harness to activate them above 3000rpm and at my pressure setpoint, but an rpm switch should do the trick nicely to increase that to ~4000rpm if you don't have a standalone.

Ken Young
 
Okay, Ken. You're locked-in to doing it. You have my permission. I'm not convinced it's worth the five or ten ft-lbs of low-end torque. And I still recommend that others not bother.
If the two-stage manifolds gave worthwhile gains. there'd not be any mysteries about how to set them up, and they'd go for a premium in the Classifieds.
More power to you, so-to-speak.
 
So yould would not want to give up 1 cfm of air flow top end to gain 20-40 lbs or tourqe down low?
 
There wouldn't be any mysteries on how to set the cyclone up if our cars came with the supporting equipment. The problem with the relative few people that have tried it (100's perhaps vs 10,000) is that they assumed wrongly this was a simple bolt-on. The majority don't have the time or know-how to develop a method that works, or in recent times apparently can't follow directions (or maybe there are too many sources of directions to follow). Any that you see in the classifieds are cheap b/c the person selling couldn't get it to work, I got mine for $60 with coil pack, transistor, and even the throttle body. Too bad it didn't come with any directions :confused: Many many months later and an engine project within a week and a half from completion and I have my roadmap to making it work. Those that are interested can read what I have to say.


Defiant said:
You have my permission.

And you claim the authority to do this? That's swell. Let's get something straight. When I post my setup and the dyno numbers after the 24th it will be for this forum's information and not for your inflated ego. If it's a 40 ft-lb difference or a 5 ft-lb difference I will share it, and then perhaps you'll have some actual facts to back up your opinions.

Ken Young
 
jdmspilner said:
So yould would not want to give up 1 cfm of air flow top end to gain 20-40 lbs or tourqe down low?

There is truth to not wanting to sacrifice top end for low end. A guy with an 8500+rpm shifting, stage 4 ported head, oversized valves, turbo only meant for 1/4 miles at a time, is not terribly interested in low end torque. That 1-2 cfm measured on a stock head will be higher on his setup. But then again, a stock or ported stock manifold would not cut it either. Now take away 20-40 ft-lbs low end torque using a high flow race manifold, and many street driven car owners would take issue with that end of the spectrum. Different strokes for different folks.

Ken Young
 
2cfm aint nothing, And who in there right mind would put a cyclone on a drag car? Theres no point. This is somthing that would benifit 75% of street driven AWDs. Im gonna be running one on my 20g fwd just for the extra tourqe to crall through traffic and not have to downshift all the time. Guys who care about top end should and do just get a sheet metal intake. People bash things they dont understand, So Im done with this. Glad to hear someone else understands how these things work.
 
Ken.. with your 2.4L I rightfully assume that your redline will be much further South than 8500K. And with the extra displacement, the Cyclone and a relatively small turbo (20G), you're going to have one sick-looking tork map :rocks:

BTW.. there have been several well-tuned cars that have made 500WHP on a stock intake manifold, so 1-2cfm isn't gonna be such a big deal :dsm:
 
im running the 2.3 stroker w/ a fp3575.. i have a mgnus intake and i just picked up a COMPLETE cyclone intake manifold.. there is a guy named jerry (aka lancerman on tampabay.dsm.org) that runs 10's allday long w/ a turbo'd 4g63 awd street driven mirage and he is running the cyclone intake manifold w/ a t-25 actuator and he says that makes the flaps close or open whatever they do.. when the motor gets 3-4 psi of boost... ive also read that w/ the bigger turbo setup the better gains you will see from the cyclone intake.. i dont know if i would even see or feel any gains since i run the stroker and have bottom end torque?? but i kinda would like to try it out just for shits and grins.. jerry said he started running his for a more streetable setup and still get around 30mpg on his mirage... just my pennies.
 
Yep, Jerry is the man. People also forget he runs pump gas at the track, and his car has AC and PS with street tires. Car is so close to running 9s on pump.
 
kengsx said:
And you claim the authority to do this? That's swell. Let's get something straight. When I post my setup and the dyno numbers after the 24th it will be for this forum's information and not for your inflated ego.
Oooh, thank you soooo much for setting me straight. If I'd had any ego to bring to this board, the daily hammerings would have crushed it out long ago. I'm just here for fun, and if I can save someone a lot of wasted work in the meantime, so much the better. But my self-esteem doesn't ride on whether you -or, anyone else on this board- agrees with me or not. All I know is what I've learned.
If it's a 40 ft-lb difference or a 5 ft-lb difference I will share it, and then perhaps you'll have some actual facts to back up your opinions.
That'd be swell. But you really don't need to try and make personal attacks out of it. Unless, of course, it's good for your ego.
 
I went to Turbotrix Racing yesterday with DSM90AWD and a wiseman and had my car tuned on their dyno using 93 octane. Check out my profile for my mods. I need to get the raw data from them and post the HP and Torque curves, but here is the lowdown:

With the cyclone operational, I had a max of 40 ft-lb increase in torque at 3700rpm and a 28HP increase vs the holding the secondaries open. They reached the same peak torque, the active cyclone run reaching 390 ft-lbs 100rpms sooner (at 4500rpm). My HP hit 400 at 5600rpm and basically stayed there through 7000rpm, peaking at 410. This was at 22psi with a mild heat port and HKS 264 cams. I never touched the cam gear settings. I had the secondaries open at 7psi at any rpm. I'd like to play around with that a bit and see the effect. Mark French did the tuning, and he was pleasantly surprised about the cyclone, and commented that the 264's were the perfect cams for that intake.

I'm happy with the results, this is a real torque monster. And my 2.4 didn't break. This is a very conservative tune, no knock. I'm going to play around and re-install my water injection after the motor is really broken in, and play with the boost slightly.

Ken
 
kengsx said:
With the cyclone operational, I had a max of 40 ft-lb increase in torque at 3700rpm and a 28HP increase vs the holding the secondaries open. They reached the same peak torque, the active cyclone run reaching 390 ft-lbs 100rpms sooner (at 4500rpm). My HP hit 400 at 5600rpm and basically stayed there through 7000rpm, peaking at 410. This was at 22psi with a mild heat port and HKS 264 cams
After many unforseen setbacks you've finally accomplished what you set out to do/prove three years ago. A well deserved Congrats Ken :thumb: :dsm:
 
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