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Cutting out at 1700RPMS

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XiKeiyaZI

15+ Year Contributor
6,994
88
Dec 28, 2008
Goldsboro, North Carolina
So I've read through a couple of threads here in distress and got the opinions of a couple of people that I know. I need some feedback/insight.

Okay, about 2 hours ago I drove about 14 miles to a friends house. Not a single hiccup. When I got there I checked my engine bay, as we all should.. noticed I had a small boost leak. No problem. I get in the car about an hour later and go to head somewhere else. I hit 1700RPMS and BAM. Engine cuts out. So I think " Okay, just cold. It's done this before. it likes to warm up " so I let it warm up to op-temp.. same thing in every gear. So it takes me 45 minutes to get home doing 42 at 1500RPMs in 5th gear. I get out. No knocking, rattling, smoking, oil is perfect and clean, coolant is all there. I can free-rev to the moon with the car parked. Vacuum is a solid 20. Oil is clean. No missing coolant. Nothing. I even checked for the dreaded case of crank-walk. Nothing.

It's about 20* outside tonight, coldest it's been yet. The car has always had an intermittent lean condition where the car would lose power for a split second and then pick right back up. It doesn't do it often, but it has done it. Just tossing that in there for speculation since I've asked a few people about it and no one has found a fix for it. I'm about to bundle up and go check plugs, wires, and pull my ECU to check and make sure that the EPROM chip is nice and snug in the socket.

For Reference : This is in the 95 GST. NOT the Talon.
 
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Good to hear, probably just corrosion. Had the same problem on my 3g only it was on the starter solenoid. Sometimes it would crank, sometimes it wouldn't. What a PITA that was to install since I was getting 12v to the solenoid wire and I could jumper the starter solenoid and get it to start. Took me 3 days to finally realize the connection was bad. ROFL
 
Update : This was NOT resolved after all. It ran great all day, up until the temperature started to drop. I have since learned that if I let the car warm up for about 15-20 minutes, it doesn't present the problem and that the RPM limit is variable from 1500-2500.

After taking a look at my Throttle Body, I realized that the two nozzles where coolant should pass through it from the main coolant line below it have been unplugged and that the line that feeds into the throttle body has been re-routed to the hose... so NO COOLANT flows through the throttle body. I figure that in this cold weather, the throttle body gets so cold and takes so long to warm up because coolant is not passing through it, that it's causing this problem.

Any insight?
 
Mine are disconnected. Have been for since I've owned it. My tibby also hasn't had them for almost 4 years now and it still started in -30 weather just fine.
 
Failed to mention : This is on a brand new OEM CTS.

If the car runs for 10 minutes before I try to drive it, it reaches OP temperature and runs fine. Anything before OP Temperature and it has the revving issue.
 
This may sound silly but which temp sensor did you replace, the one on the radiator or the one on the T-housing that looks like a "T"? I had a problem kinda similar but it was the wiring harness at the ECU temp sensor that was busted up so bad that it was starting extremely rough under cold temps and would NOT like it when i gave it gas for it acted like it might die.

Also, I can't remember but did you pull the ECU and check to make sure there are no problems with it? And if you have a datalogger, maybe you can see something there that might help with a solution.
 
Yes, as stated in the first post, the ECU was checked and is pristine, along with the connections at the plugs.

We 2g drivers don't have the "T" shaped thermo sensor either, so yes I replaced the correct one. On top of that, I'm running a full aluminum radiator and my previous one didn't have a temp sensor installed in it.

As for a logger.. don't get me started on that experience. -_-
 
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